Search results for:

Wow, I knew you did some furniture, but had no idea you also did interiors. Kudos on the work you've done with Redemption Roasters. I've been to their Smithfield shop, and it was absolutely lovely in there. They're also a great company/concept.

Great news, I hope it will be a closed road. That would be really fantastic. Not too far down the road from me these days, but I still haven't ridden up there since 2016.

Yeah, they are bearings. Hope do some replacements with nice bearings that I've stuck on some worn out 105 derailleurs in the past. I'd imagine they are comparable to ultegra, though.

Isn't there then a risk that the chain is too short for the large/large combination?

Consequences if a chain that is too short seem much worse than one that is too long, based purely on internet horror stories.

The way I've always calculated chain length for Shimano 2x systems is either:

1. Use an online calculator like http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bi­ke/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html

2. Wrap a chain around the biggest chainring and biggest sprocket to see where they meet. Add 2 pins, and cut the chain there.

I recently bought a bike that uses SRAM Rival 1x gears, and would like to know how to calculate the right chain length for it, primarily so that I can make sure I avoid buying a replacement chain that is too short out of the packet.

The SRAM manual (page 14 of https://www.sram.com/globalassets/docume­nt-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-road/driv­etrain/95-7518-007-100-1x-rev-a-road-sys­tem-user-manual-eeu.pdf) suggests wrapping the chain around the biggest sprocket and the chainring, and then adding 4 pins. So that's similar to what I've done in the past for Shimano.

Using that method, it looks like I should have use a 55 inch chain. The online chain length calculator also agrees with 55 inch.

However, the current chain on there (came like that from the factory) has an extra 6 pins of length on top of what either of my normal methods think it should be. It is 58 inches.

The bike has ridden fine over the past year, with no noticeable issues. When I come to replace the chain should I replace like for like and go with 58 inches? Or should I trust the SRAM manual and online calculator and go with 55 inches? I'm loathe to "just try 55 inches", as once I've cut the chain it'll be a bit of a pain if I decide it's actually too short and I should go back up to 58.

Ah I'm sorry, total fake news! I must have been remembering it is not vegan, but not the right reason.

It isn't I'm afraid. Contains whey protein. I'm also on the hunt for good vegan protein powder, not found any yet but will post if I do

Nice one here: https://www.pitchsidephoto.co.uk/Cycling­/2020-National-Hill-Climb-Championships/­i-3n3dMhQ/A

All my American colleagues love me for introducing them to fortnightly. No more spending days fretting over whether that bi-weekly report needs to be done twice a week, or every other week.

And when they say "every other week" my mind boggles at why they knew this phrase but have not been saying that for the avoidance of doubt this whole time.

The specialised insoles were not great in my experience. Go see someone who can do you a custom footbed. Simon at Cadence in Crystal Palace will do you a pair for 90 quid. Best 90 quid i ever spent on cycling

Chapeau! That used to be on my commute, but I never got close, even stupidly early in the morning you're held up by traffic.

Haha it was okay. I got utterly soaked doing a recce ride, but had spare kit to change into. As a result of that, though, I was late starting my warmup, and there were 3 temporary traffic lights on my warmup route, all of which were red. So I missed my slot. A very kind timekeeper let me take a later start of another DNS, so I was able to ride and get a time. Still waiting to hear results. I was fairly happy with how I rode -feel like there was just that extra 5% that I couldn't quite get out.

Can you send some of the good weather up north? I'm doing Holme Moss later and the weather is pretty miserable so far today

The new Aeroad is so expensive was my first thought! The one I bought in 2017 was 3.8k for di2 ultegra and the top (and only) frameset, which makes it a surprisingly light bike. The equivalent model in this latest iteration is 5.2k, and the one you really want is 7.7k.

Canyon are trying to get away from the value for money end of the market and into the premium end.

Yeah, that's my challenge. I don't have any other di2 bikes to compare it to.

I'll see if I can ring a mate and have them test on theirs, or see if I can squeeze in at the LBS. If anyone on here has a di2 rear derailleur to hand and wouldn't mind checking if they're able to push the derailleur inboard toward the frame about 1mm I'd really appreciate it!

Hmm, so everything seems in good order, apart from maybe one thing. The best way that I can describe it is that there is a bit of "slop" in the derailleur itself. So I can manually push the derailleur a tiny bit closer to the frame than the current shift position - probably only 1 or 2 mm, but that'd be enough to throw the shift off.

I'm guessing a derailleur is not meant to be able to do this?

Any ideas what I can do to fix this, or is it new derailleur time?

I'll take the rear derailleur off, inspect and clean everything including jockey wheels on my lunch. If not then I'll see if I can get it in at a local bike shop to check the hanger before my race on saturday

Recently my bike with di2 has been slow to shift down the cassette (to the smaller cogs), but only for 3 specific cogs: 2nd largest to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, and 4th to 5th. Shifting up the cassette is very quick. Shifting down across all other cogs is fine.

The chain was just over 50% worn so I replaced it. However, the issue persists, and I've now realised it does it across 3 different cassettes (2 wheelsets and turbo).

The mech hanger doesn't appear bent, and is only about 18 months old. The derailleur appears to be tight on the hanger. I've had the bike for 3.5 years now and shifting has always been perfect until a week ago.

Any ideas to help me diagnose and fix the issue? I'll plug in eTube and update the firmware if it needs it later. However, I'm struggling to think why/how there could be an issue with just 3 downshifts. Typically a bent hanger, or needing to micro-adjust, would result in the shifting being off over the whole cassette.

Yes pls. Also now just down the road from me

I've gone and entered it!

Any on here signed up for the national championships? Today is the last day to sign up, and apparently they have plenty of places left, so you're pretty much guaranteed a ride.

I'm umming and aahing about entering, mainly because it's relatively expensive (£29), and there's a risk that I could be in a local lockdown on the date of the event.

This is the entry link if anyone is interested. I've recently moved out of London, so on the positive side it could be a good chance to see some of the hill climbers on here that I've met in previous years.

Yeah, I think you are all right. It's probably wisest to get a grinder that does filter coffee well, and then if I decide I want to get into the espresso game later on, sell up and get something better suited to that. +1 on filter at home being the right balance of time and money input for the quality of coffee.

There was an offer up yesterday for a Sage Smart grinder which gets good reviews for £130, but that's gone out of stock. I've found a Wilfa Svart new for just under £100 from a European shop, so I'd just need a plug adapter, which I think I have a few of lying around anyway. I'll keep thinking about it for the next few days, but I think I'll end up going for a new Wilfa Svart.

I'm after a recommendation for a grinder to use at home. I've previously bought coffee ground, but now I have a bit more kitchen space want to grind my own, as I know what a big difference freshly ground coffee makes.

At the minute I brew in a Hario V60 dripper. However, I could see myself trying other methods like aeropress or maybe even espresso in the future. So I'd like something that's capable of espresso, and is easy to adjust between different coarseness settings.

I'd been thinking about getting an Iberital MC2 or Wilfa Svart second hand on ebay. Are there better options out there? I don't really have a budget, but would be most comfortable paying under £100 used.

I often just arrive early at the event and give the hill 2 rides up as a recce if I can't ride it in advance. 1 is nearly race pace to determine pacing and where to get out the saddle. The other is focussed on road surface and line choice.

YouTube videos or a mix of street view and veloviewer can be good virtual substitutes.

No, that's not normal. I'd get in touch with wahoo support if I was you.