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its alot of bike though really and alot of its brand spankers

wamp

250 posted were ever you need it to get to

bumpy

bump

can post the bike anywere in the uk free of charge

its a 17" frame

ide reakon you would be pushing it at 6'2 as im only 5,7
i reakon upper end would be just under 6

its relativly old ... early 90's

if i had to guess probbaly 93/4

i really am open to offers

yer make me an offer

Kona Fire Mountain

Kona Project Forks

Random bars and stem odi longnecks

Deore Sturmey Three speed / mavic wheels

dmr tyres

brooks saddle ... or charge bucket

shimano dxr brake

echo headset

micro bmx gearing

primo hollowbite copy cranks

euro bb

sweet work / pub bike

will go light of road

will cruise at road bike pace

tyres do 80psi which allows you to easily piss off "serious" roadies

£350 ono

check cable ends in the stops

they can get dry and give you an echoey creak when you twist the bars

the tolerance shim bb's and cranks are made to is tight

first face chase the bb

degrease the threads

antiseize all threads

install bb with correct spacing and to the right torque ~40nm drive side tightend first

clean of exess antiseize

film of grease all over crank axle

push crank through bb should go through by hand ... no hammering, even by hand!

retract crank slightly and wipe of lip of grease between bb seal and spider ... stops crap biulding up

push crank back in

install non drive side checking that saftey tap is in position

tighten plastic or ali end cap into axel by hand.

back it off

use torque wrench to tighten it to 2.5-3nm usualy off the scale of most home torque wrenches. might also need an icetools tool which uses a 8mm allen key to drive it.

tighten the pinch bolts evenly to 12-14nm

evenly means tigthtening progressivly there is no need to half a turn on each

wipe of an mis grease / antiseize

check pinch bolts and gunk biuld up every 2 weeks - month
dependant on how much riding / dirt you get up to.

i thoroughly agree with the above

its not the powder coating that causes grief it is the cleaning

all types weather it be blasting, dipping or even by hand with zip wheels ect removes material along with the previous finished surface

it wont damage welded areas in any serious way but where you have very thin wall section especially high end butted tubes were they waste away dramatically towards the middle of the tubes you can easily cause holes in the tube if the cleaning process is to aggressive

it is really common problem when paining vintage car panels especially were rust has been removed.

if the free wheel is caput and your not worried about wreching it.

hold the wheel firmly ... standing on it is good

have a look at the flat face of the freewheel between the cog and the notched body there should be 2-4 indentations which look like you could get a pin spanner in

use a small flat screwdriver or punch and a hammer and place the screwdriver or punch into one of the indents and try to drift it clockwise. as if tightening it up. it is a treaded cone which will unscrew.
once you have freeded it it should unscrew by hand.

under this there wil be alot of small balls / shims along with the pawls and springs

these will go everywere as you remove the cone / cog from the freewheel.

once you have removed all this take you wheel clamp the exposed body of the freewheel and remove it in the same fashion as you would with a normal remover.