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You'll also need a shock pump if you play with your forks. Seems kinda pointless to lower them, it's barely gonna make a difference to handling and you can decrease the amount of travel using the adjustment on the fork. Hope brakes are easy to bleed and you don't need a bleed kit, just some hose and dot 5.1 brake fluid. Your man in the video doesn't use any special equipment, why should you?
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It sounds like they want to tap it out to italian size threads, this isn't so good as italian bbs aren't so common. When I do it, I cut italian threads into the shell, then put in a threaded insert with standard 24tpi british threads on the inside. Works really well, has saved many a frame with borked bb thread. I usually charge £50, but as I'm in Edinburgh you'd have to ship it too. Usually that's 20-30 return depending on insurance etc. Argos Racing Cycles in Bristol do the same thing for £75. I'd try a different axle, 75 is a lot of money to spend on a raleigh medale!
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Andy, sounds like you are "just" the guy to scribble an essay on the different cartridge bearing sizes for headsets (external diameters) and angles (internal and external...) used in modern h/sets. It seemed like such a good idea to get just the cartridges for headset overhauling! Now I have a drawer full of bearings, some of which will never be used.....
Sorry, that's not my area of expertise! Too many standards, it drives me crazy too. I use this tool to check, some giants and others use a different standard tho.....
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38679 -
Your fork might be italian threaded, don't know what happens when you run a ISO die on italian threads and I honestly don't know how to tell the difference! Sheldon says the only difference is that italian threads are cut at 55 deg, ISO 60deg so I think you'll end up cutting an insignifigant amount of material from the fork. I think it'd be fine, but it's going to be a pain in the arse to get the die on if the top of thread is damaged
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26.4mm and 27.0mm are common sizes for a fork crown. Using a 27.0 race on a 26.4 crown is a no go, you need a new headset. Dia Compe 1" classic is pretty good for the money, is ISO and has a 26.4 race and 30.2 cups. It's italian threaded but will work fine with ISO threads.
ISO standard is 30.2mm headtube, but a lot of supposedly ISO headset cups are 30.0 or 30.1mm. Incredibly annoying... The quick and easy method is to shim using some 0.1mm steel shim (pepsi can :) ). Some campagnolo headsets I've installed have had 30.25mm cups, which is just enough but ideally they should be 30.3mm (which is the size the dia compe headset actually has). They'll all be described as 30.2, as that's the nominal size!!
You need to check your head-tube isn't ovalised, measure it with the verniers and if it's 30.2 all round, top and bottom, it's ok and your existing headset is the problem.
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Campag 8-speed cassette spacing is 5mm, shimano is 4.8mm, over the 7 shifts that's 1.4mm error. If you set it up so that it's correct in the middle if the cassette it'll be out by 0.7mm at top and bottom. Small enough to not really matter. Shimano top jockey wheels are built with a fair bit of slack in them so if you use one in your campagnolo mech it'll help absorb the error. I've got a bike with this setup, works really well. 95 Veloce groupset with shimano r-500 wheels, shimano hg-50 8-speed cassette.
There are lots of inexpensive campag 8-speed wheelsets around as 8-speed campag hubs are incompatible with 9,10,11. The problem is finding 8-speed cassettes. Shimano still make 8-speed stuff.
PS if you go 9-speed can I have your ergo levers?

Hi there
Got a pair of Dura-ace EX HF-7261hubs laced to Mavic GP-4 tubular rims.
They have tyres fitted but they're old. Cassette would probably need to be replaced although the threaded locking cog looks OK.
We're looking for £150.
Check them out on our website: Eastside Bikes.com