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I want to mount my Schmidt eDelux (hub dynamo driven) light low down out of the way. VeloOrange make a replacement skewer nut which extends to the right of the hub and which I can directly bolt the light to, but it's far from obvious who stocks it. Any ideas, or alternatives?

Pic here:

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/lighting/dynamo/low-down-light-mount-type-ii.html

Thanks

Dibs

Dibs 7 if still available. pm on the way.

2nd dibs on silver quill stems if mustard beak changes his mind.

Thanks all. I live out near J2 of the M40, riding into St James's, though usually I'm on a Brompton from Marylebone.

Riding into town about 7.30am on Friday, travelling East on the straight section between Acton and Shepherds Bush on A4020. Driver in green road sweeping lorry pulled out of junction to my left, turning right (ie West) towards Acton. No time to do anything, so hit the side of the truck at about about 20 mph.

Ambulance and police were there in what felt like a couple of minutes and I spent the next 24 hrs in A&E, mashed right leg, bruising/damaged sternum chest, shoulders, both arms and legs. Doc reckons at least 6 weeks for the chest to heal.

The driver at least stopped after the collision, but his excuse? "Sorry mate, I didn't see you". And despite me riding in the middle of the lane in the daylight in a fluorescent yellow jacket. How much more obvious do I need to be?

I'm not normally a fan of the ambulance chasing solicitor fraternity, but at a minimum I want to recover the cost of my clothing and damage to my bike. Any recommendations?

Undibs on Tektro brakes.

Dibs. PM'd

It's an old frame (~1979) and I'd prefer to avoid drilling the forks to take the larger allen nut. Anyone know if the long bolt on these can be swapped for an even longer one? It looks like this is the only difference between a front and rear caliper.

Normally sold in pairs (front+rear), but I need a second front caliper for my Bianchi 'restoration' Will happily pay a sensible sum, or swap for the rear (new, never fitted).

Dibs 66. PM now.

So how can I spot this delamination?

Re delamination: turn tyre inside out and you'll see where the threads have come away from the inside of the tyre.

I did the Stykeproven (340 miles/540km in <24 hours) in Norway last year. My conclusions were it's all about (A) training so your body is used to the distance, (B) eating and drinking enough of the right stuff and (C) keeping the pace down for the first 100 miles. B is the hardest bit, much more so than on 100 mile rides where you get a chance to refuel at dinner/overnight.

Sleep deprivation isn't too much of a big deal as long as you're aware that you'll feel sleepy around 3-4am and find a strategy to hang in there until the sun comes up.

Training-wise the longest ride I did before the event was 175miles, and a couple of centuries on successive days. Once you can ride 175-200 miles in a day, you've got what it takes to go much, much further as long as you keep eating and drinking.

For breaks, I probably stopped every 40 or so miles on average, but keep them short - don't allow yourself to cool down and stiffen up. Stop, refill the drinks bottles, load up your pockets with food and go.

Loved the ride, so I'm probably going back again this year; targeting less than 20 hours.

Pot-hole strike leading to delaminated tyre and a pinch puncture at the same time. Had this one a couple of times, both with Specialized All Condition Pro tyres. Delamination gives bump in tyre, hence "phumping"