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Beware the DA 7 speed - not compatible with non DA 7 speed stuff.

I've got a set somewhere of 105 7 speed downtube levers. I think the front shifter is still on my TT bike.

Sold one last week on eBay identical to this - for £88. They seem to go between £90 and £100 generally...

Done.

Sorry peeps! Too much haste...

1. happy to post AT YOUR OWN COST & RISK. Insured if you want to pay for it @ RM prices
   
2. Ergostem. £70
   
3. Specialized saddle £20
   
4. prices plus postage at cost. Paypal gift.
   
   

Frame is original Trek 5500 1995. Used twice from new as a TT bike (hence Ergostem to get bar position right), then mothballed awaiting resurgent TT career. Still waiting...
Now planning on converting to 10 spd lightweight road bike with drops.

Campag Record stuff & Brooks saddle is off my deluxe tourer that hasn't seen much more use. Couple of rides in the last decade, towing child trailer. Drive train is shot so I'm converting to a SS for winter use.

Having a clearout.
Lots to go.
Geared (!) (http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40049&t=12811820&p=17302651#p17302651) and fixed stuff.

Brooks swift titanium black saddle. EXC cond including Brooks cover
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429 saddle cover

Specialized saddle brand new unused.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429

Look ergostem - exc cond (only used twice ever!)http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N08/6278118966/in/set-72157625315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
Great for tweaking position on your old school threaded steerer bike, and getting super low low low.

6500 Ultegra double chainset & BBhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N08/6277685491/in/set-72157625315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N ... 5315525429
would make a great SS front with a 130 bcd ring (I have a few)

I've got one I was about to list on 'fleabay. It's mint. PM me if interested

Recently changed the stock calipers for Ultegras. Fantastic difference. The stock ones were absolutely dire.

I'd stick with 23mm tyres for decent clearance - at least on my 2007 model.

If you really want cantis or discs (and I would), then get a Pompino F&F for cantis, or try and track down a Singlecross (same as Langster but CX clearances & canti brakes). No idea what to recommend for discs though.

How about this Alex Peacock
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:1C2zyZLT8m8J:findarticles.com/p/news-articles/coventry-evening-telegraph-england/mi_7969/is_2008_Feb_8/victim-tells-sympathy-attacker-knife/ai_n34916803/+%22alex+peacock%22+york&cd=14&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk

"Since the attack, Mr Peacock has moved to York with his girlfriend Victoria, where he now works as a bike mechanic."

or this fishy seller of aquarium products (see what I did there?!)
http://www.aquarist-classifieds.co.uk/php/detail59_128311.php (and a few other listings there)

I'm in York - let me know if I can be of any assistance.

The 7 speed blocks have the same total width as the new 10 speed ones. New ones have much narrower gaps between teeth, and thinner teeth, so as to fit in the same overall width.

As the rear mech travel is designed for the same total block width, then the "limit screws" should work fine for a 7 speed mech on a 10 speed block.

Your problem will come when you try and index your downtube levers to the mech and block.

Different generation mechs and levers work with different "cable pull ratios" - ie how much cable is pulled by the lever in one click, and how far across the block the mech travels. (the indexed levers are simple; each click point is set as a certain no of degrees of rotation. The mech travel is more complex, as it relies both on cable length as well as pivot geometry).

Short answer: you will not be able to have 9 or 10 speed INDEXED gearing using a 7 speed mech.
Alternative answer: you could use any downtube lever in "friction" mode rather than index mode. I've done this for many years on a couple of my bikes without trouble.

On a slightly different note: you'll find a fair few time triallists doing similar. They use a whole mish-mash of kit, with bar end shifters (end of aero bars) in friction mode. It's easy to micro-adjust your gears as your hands should always be on the gear levers.

I'm in, but starting off at 9:45 (again).
I seem to keep running it every year. It would be good to enjoy the scenery and not be so absolutely knackered by the time you leave Docklands...

I've just sold one of these frames a fortnight ago - bought new in 1992 and was my best bike until last Autumn.

They're not the lightest, but a great ride and should still see sterling service

For sale

I'm getting rid of my trusty (not rusty) steed - a 2002 Trek aluminium USPS frame and forks.

Never raced or crashed.
Ridden all year round, as you can with an alloy bike
Size is a nominal 54cm top tube (compact) - equivalent to a 55cm horizontal top tube c-c. (i mainly ride 56 cm bikes and this one fits me just dandy with a 110 stem)
Decent condition for age - see pics.
Not perfect: rub marks (cosmetic) to head tube from STI cables.
Slight marks to top rear of fork crown, if you want to be really picky. The fork legs are carbon so this is really cosmetic, visible only on close-up and in no way structural.

this bike has been a great daily companion for a few years, but I've gone over to the "dark side" with a fixed wheel (Langster) for commuting now and the Trek has sat unloved in my garage for months.

I'm looking for £125 for frame & forks.

I can supply the bike built up with Sora STI (triple) if you are interested - I am also getting rid of a Giant OCR 58cm and can transfer the parts across if you wish.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N08/4363249211/in/set-72157623460554550/

Trek alu from 2002.
Used as training / winter bike.
Size 54 cm.
Never crashed
Rub marks from STI cables to head tubes -see close up pics

Got a geared 58cm giant OCR alloy bike - shiny red (by far the fastest colour, and scientifically proven ;) ) -with Sora STI gearing (triple chainset).

Located nr York.

Pics to follow, if you're interested (I'll have to take them in the garage this evening though!)

What's yer budget?

I've got this for sale:
For sale

I'm getting rid of my trusty (not rusty) steed - a 2002 Trek aluminium USPS frame and forks.

Never raced or crashed.
Ridden all year round, as you can with an alloy bike
Size is a nominal 54cm top tube (compact) - equivalent to a 55cm horizontal top tube c-c. (i mainly ride 56 cm bikes and this one fits me just dandy with a 110 stem)
Decent condition for age - see pics.
Not perfect: rub marks (cosmetic) to head tube from STI cables.
Slight marks to top rear of fork crown, if you want to be really picky. The fork legs are carbon so this is really cosmetic, visible only on close-up and in no way structural.

this bike has been a great daily companion for a few years, but I've gone over to the "dark side" with a fixed wheel for commuting now and the Trek has sat unloved in my garage for months.

I'm looking for £125 for frame & forks.

I can supply the bike built up with Sora STI (triple) if you are interested - I am also getting rid of a Giant OCR 58cm and can transfer the parts across if you wish.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N08/4363249211/in/set-72157623460554550/

Trek alu from 2002.
Used as training / winter bike.
Size 54 cm.
Never crashed
Rub marks from STI cables to head tubes -see close up pics

I'm about to sell this Trek alu F&F. Not horizontal dropouts though

For sale

I'm getting rid of my trusty (not rusty) steed - a 2002 Trek aluminium USPS frame and forks.

Never raced or crashed.
Ridden all year round, as you can with an alloy bike
Size is a nominal 54cm top tube (compact) - equivalent to a 55cm horizontal top tube c-c. (i mainly ride 56 cm bikes and this one fits me just dandy with a 110 stem)
Decent condition for age - see pics.
Not perfect: rub marks (cosmetic) to head tube from STI cables.
Slight marks to top rear of fork crown, if you want to be really picky. The fork legs are carbon so this is really cosmetic, visible only on close-up and in no way structural.

this bike has been a great daily companion for a few years, but I've gone over to the "dark side" with a fixed wheel (Langster) for commuting now and the Trek has sat unloved in my garage for months.

I'm looking for £125 for frame & forks.

I can supply the bike built up with Sora STI (triple) if you are interested - I am also getting rid of a Giant OCR 58cm and can transfer the parts across if you wish.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14610196@N08/4363249211/in/set-72157623460554550/

Trek alu from 2002.
Used as training / winter bike.
Size 54 cm.
Never crashed
Rub marks from STI cables to head tubes -see close up pics

Hippy - I'm after 1 gig of PC3200 RAM.

Do you still have your 2 x 512mb sticks available?

My Tektro calipers are nightmare in the wet.
Wear down the cartridge pads at a frightening rate.
Not much help to you, I guess. Caused a fair few hairy moments for me in the last few days, I can tell you

I've hit >50mph downhill in the Peaks several times on geared road bike and MTB.
Hit 60mph once in a road race coming down from Owler Bar to Baslow in the middle of the peloton, and it scared the bejeesus out of me.
It's relatively easy to get >50mph coming off Holme Moss, as long as you watch out for the nasty R bend half way down.

I've hit 31mph on 42x 16 fixed, and that felt quite bouncy

I have a couple of pairs of the P-X calipers in silver.
A bit fiddly to set up.
Barrel clamp for cable is a bit awkward but works OK.

Dead light- less than 200g for the pair, by my scales.

I'd probably go for the forged ones they've just introduced though - half the price and 20g heavier.

They are made by K-CNC.

There's even a pink option...

Had one on my TT bike since 1994 - perfect for finding and keeping the ideal position (and adjusting as well: low front end for 10m vs higher position for 24 hr riding)

What you need is a thing called "maintenance" not chain tugs.

Ouch. That hurts.

Actually one of the main reasons I run fixed is so I don't have to worry about maintenance...

Any suggestions as to best ones to fit a Langster? I had the chain jump last night and lock the back wheel, fishtailed and came off on the wet descent.
Boy am I hurting today.

Even though I give the wheel nuts lots of welly to tighten, they seem to loosen over time.

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 1- mtb[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 custom[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 fits exactly how I want- no fancy bits I don’t need[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 fairly important- down to the matching anodised bits[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 regularly swapped parts – sometimes for a better fit, often for a lighter part[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 to add disc brakes (it’s an early Pace so has cantilevers). Otherwise perfect[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 2 – Time trial special[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 custom[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 built exactly how I want it[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 moderately important- needs to be fast not pretty (but is colour-coordinated)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 switched brakes for lighter set[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 I would only change the front end from a threaded fork / stem to threadless, to save weight[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 3 – road racer[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 custom[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 exactly what I want – all parts[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 aesthetics moderately important. It’s old and scratched and the parts are obsolete, but it’s still fast[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 lots of parts swapping for lighter weight kit[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 would change BB/ chainset for lighter ones, and possibly add fancy wheels[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 4 - fixie[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 off the peg[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 customised a lot of the bits – particularly the seating area[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 fairly important (although it’s on commuter duties at the moment so I don’t want it to look too flash)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 upgraded some parts for lighter kit (BB, seatpost, stem, saddle)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 wheels; chainset; brakeset[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 5 - tandem[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 off the peg[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 own saddles and upgraded rear wheel[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 not really important[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 upgraded the brakes, rear wheel, bars (lighter ones)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 disc brakes and bombproof wheels[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 6 tourer[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 custom[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 perfect fit and bits I want – particularly the gearing[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 not really important[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 none really[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 nothing really[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 6 – winter bike[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 off the peg[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 own saddle, pedals[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 not really (got it resprayed, but because it needed it not because of aesthetics)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 I’ve upgraded a few bits with kit off my best bike[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 only to replace worn bits[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Bike 7 - folder[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 Off the peg[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]2 used the “custom build” option to spec how I wanted it and added personal details (e.g. saddle)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]3 pretty important[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 none really[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]5 nothing really.[/SIZE][/FONT]

I think I might have a bike problem...

update - dual pivots still for sale.