Search results for:

Discuss: Is Sportwashing /Greenwashing a greater threat to cyclesport than doping?

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfre­e/2022/jun/19/the-guardian-view-on-qatar­s-migrant-workers-football-owes-them

It will be interesting to hear how you get on.

You've probably solved this by now, but here goes:

My experience is that all brake shoes ('holders') of this type (i.e. conventional callipers) are interchangeable. So you can use, for example, Weinmann shoes and brake blocks ('pads').

I think you're correct when you say the hardness of your existing brake blocks is what's stopping you from stopping; I don't think there's anything wrong with the GB callipers that won't be cured by using better brake blocks.

It used to be normal practice to buy just the blocks and put them into the existing shoes, which were open at the back to make this easy. It was necessary to notice which way round the shoes should be fitted, otherwise the brake block would eject itself under braking, and possibly this was the reason why the shoes came to be closed at both ends.

Don't be put off by this - it's easy enough to bend the closing end wall of the shoe and insert a new block in the old way - just be sure that you keep the end that you've bent open at the back when fitting to the calliper, since too much bending will cause metal fatigue with the possibility of the shoe breaking and the block coming out under braking (as above!).

The following is just my observation - I can't quote any other authority for it.

In olden days all sprocket teeth were pointed, including those on derailleur multiple free wheels. At some point (1950's?) it occured to someone that gear changing would be improved by removing those points and having flat topped teeth. This quickly became the norm for derailleurs, but single sprockets stayed the same, at least to start with.

More recently some flat topped fixed sprockets have appeared, perhaps because the makers had only ever seen derailleur sprockets. It might seem that the chain would 'derail' more easily without the points, but I've worn out at least one of these modern sprockets without having any trouble - so maybe the points were as pointless as the flange under the teeth of some ancient chain rings.

Or perhaps they are there to prevent chain whips from slipping !

" I'm confident I could have managed to get there and back"

I got near to proving this last week when I rode the Duckett nearly as far as Oxford: Radlett, Ivinghoe, Radlett (just under fifty miles). Of course, it's much easier in the summer and without luggage, but I think this route probably involved more climbing.

The Bike

I have improved this a bit since last year. The steering was too heavy - I traced this to the crown race which was slightly too tall and was fouling on the cup of the bottom lug of the head tube - not a problem I've come across before, but a slightly different (smaller) crown race cured the problem.

The front brake was also unsatisfactory in that it caused juddering. The cause was an imperfect rim which was slightly dented - that is, not perfectly round. This has always been a defect with rod brakes - they are sensitive to defects which would barely be noticeable with calliper brakes. I've now found a better wheel and braking is much improved, but although I'd like to remove the back brake (which would make turning the back wheel round to change the gear easier) I really don't fancy relying on this ancient method of stopping.

With conventional racing apparently out of favour, here is a possible alternative:

Course de Rene Fallet

Monsieur Fallet was a journalist who loved cycle sport, but as a spectator and reporter rather than an actual participant; he also liked a drink. He was a friend of Raymond Poulidor whom he once partnered in a Gentlemen’s GP, but had to ask Raymond to push him on any kind of climb.

In his book ‘Poulidor Intime’ Raymond reports the sole victory in his friend’s palmares. This was in ‘Les Boucles de la Bresbe*’ which was run under Fallet’s own special system, the rules were:

• Absolutely no breaking away.

• Obligatory halt at every bar on the course.

• Speed not to exceed 10 mph.

• All competitors to be weighed before the start and after the finish. The winner is the rider who
  has gained most weight (the one who has consumed the most in the bars).

Are there enough English pubs still in business to organise such an event in this country?

*Bresbe - Fallet's parents' home town.

hippy in reply to @clubman

Hounslow 100

I do like this race.

Here's my report:

https://www.velouk.net/2022/06/03/report­-result-ron-brown-memorial-100m-tt/

I wasn't aware of anyone from the forum riding - did anyone face the timekeeper?

There was no one on fixed, which is (surprisingly) quite unusual for this event.

7" cranks, which i may find are to long.?

Crank length can be important - it certainly is for me: I'm only comfortable with 6.75".

Some road testing of this machine is going to be necessary and you may find the 7" suits you, but if they don't you'd be better off with a less prestigious make which are the right length. I could lend you some 5 pin Milremo's if it's necessary.

Gearing - I'm not sure what you've got there or how hilly the route is, but you don't look undergeared. How about a larger sprocket on the unused side of the hub? You might need a bit more chain. Don't forget it's not great to honk uphill with a heavy saddlebag!

Tubs - Got many spares? Remember it's undesirable to fit a brand new tub at the roadside (may be tight and won't have any cement on the base tape).

A Pump. One period feature that's missing. No fifties club cyclist would go anywhere (except on the track ) without a pump - not even a ten mile TT.

Bike looks great - good luck with your ride.

I think he is quite possibly the only person who is both capable of mending it and who would actually want to ride it.

I'm expecting to see it being used in a club time trial - possibly even this year.

As I expect you know, changing that sprocket isn't all that easy because it's necessary to grind off the remains of the old one and then braze the new one in position - but it has to be almost perfectly concentric or you have a chain tension problem.

Here's a repeat of my post from 'Seat pin slot pinching' 22 days ago.

If you don't want to bother with Clive's solution, you might try simply removing some material from the sides of the slot with a file or a hacksaw.

Hot Melt Glue

Here is a radical but simple solution to the seat post problem - forget the clamp, just use hot melt glue.

Clive Bonavia (google him) was an eccentric but excellent frame builder who used this method on all his later frames. He said it had three benefits: it saved him the trouble of making any kind of clamp, it saved the weight of the clamp and, most importantly, it prevented any water getting into the frame past the clamp (a common problem, causing corrosion).

Clive's main business was joinery, so he knew all about glue. Although I think this material was intended for wood, it seems to work perfectly for this purpose. It can be reheated any number of times to adjust the seat post, and the amount of heat required to free the glue does not damage the paint.

You should be aware that I'm just quoting Clive here, I'm not writing from personal experience, but in my experience he was always right about these technical matters.

So I suggest you google 'hot melt glue', and don't forget to clean and degrease everything before assembly!

I have a potential buyer for your trike - I've just sent you a PM.

My post today in the Pre 1950's thread in Bikes and Bits is relevant to this problem (4569).

It seems clear that it's a general problem and not limited to one or two brands. Some one above in this column mentions keeping the bike clean and speaking as some one who has found a crack in a Campag crank when cleaning, I agree with this. Clearly pedal washers are a good precaution - I remember that TA always supplied them with new cranks. Does this not happen now?

Old style steel cottered cranks do break very occasionally but it was much less of a problem.

There was one type of Raleigh crank used on some of their 'RRA' bikes which did have a reputation for failing and I have once seen a broken Chater Lea crank, but this was shown to me by a bike shop owner who clearly thought it was a very odd occurence. I've never seen any other broken steel cranks.

If you look at photos of continental racing from the 50's, it's striking that the pros were not quick to adopt cotterless - I guess this was because they preferred reliability to something they didn't trust.

I have got a couple of bikes with cotterless, but nearly all my riding nowadays is done on steel cottered cranks - I'm not trying to go fast, so I'm not bothered by a little extra weight.

I don't think there's any doubt the time trial world is in a bad place - I could go on at length (and I may do so when I've more time).

However I'm posting on a slighly optimistic note to say that I've just got the start sheet for the Hounslow 100 and we've got 80 entrants, which I think is reasonably encouraging.

I 'm not the world's leading expert on the subject, but this is what I believe to be correct.

1. TA 314 is correct for a single chainring ( a double normally needs a 344). Newer 314 spindles are marked 111.

2. TA and Stronglight 49D are virtually identical, so no need to alter the BB spindle.

3. Steel right hand cranks (most makes) are made either for single or double rings - a crank for a double ring has a bigger gap between the crank and the ring to allow space for the changer, and the double type needs a longer spindle. I've got three old TA/Stronglight cotterless cranks here, and they all have the same gap - I don't know whether there was ever a crank of this type for single rings. For what it's worth I do know the 'Professional' adapter did come in both single and double form.

4. The 'double' type of crank will fit on a 314 spindle, but the inner ring will probably foul on the chainstay.

Since the TA and Stronglight versions are so similar I doubt whether there is any difference their strength and durability. If a crank breaks at the spindle end it could be metal fatigue or just bad luck, but I suspect the most likely cause is over tightening of the retaining bolt (not necessarily by the current owner!).

My own method for fitting these cotterless cranks is: oil the spindle, fit crank and tighten bolt but only using moderate force. Then ride a few miles (maybe five) and retighten the bolt. Check again after a few days. Opinion seems to vary about using oil, but I have found my method works, and it's worth bearing in mind that a shop does not want to have a bike back for checking and doesn't care if the crank won't come off the spindle in a couple of years time!

I'm sure it's not the same bike - just the same person!

By chance I've just come across a photo of the original owner of this Gillott.

I wonder if he rode as a Vet? He looks in good condition in this pic - certainly better than the condition of the photo itself, which I've borrowed from a 1971 Cycling.

Incidentally, John Dennis was a Pedal Club member, although before my time.

I think the first front changer is a Nuovo Record ('70's/80's) the second is a Gran Sport (50's /60's) the rear mech is also a Gran Sport. Some one will certainly want them, but I don't think you'll be able to give up the day job!

The Cyclings also have some value - just the number of them must make the whole lot worth something. I would be interested in at least some of the pre-war editions.

The Pedal Club is a 'one of a kind' cycling club. Essentially it is a debating forum (and lunch club) open to people who have made a mark on the world of cycling. It is London based.

I have been a member for some time*, and I have taken a few lfgss users along as guests.

Rather than trying to give a full explanation of the club I'dlike to refer you to the club's web site, which will give you a much better idea of the club than I could here:

https://thepedalclub.org/

I've recently started writing reports on each lunch meeting, and I intend to post links here ( unless you tell me they're too boring to be on lfgss)

I'd certainly be interested in any feedback,particularly about the website.

It must be admitted that Pedal Club members tend to be old, but in two of the three recent reports linked below our speakers have been right at the cutting edge: Victoria Hood is a passionate advocate of women's racing, and has strong views on the transgender issue, while Jeremy Ford's talk on African cycling came just a few days before an Eritrean stage victory in the Giro.

Anyway, here are the last three reports:

https://www.velouk.net/2022/05/18/featur­e-the-pedal-club-lunch-may/

https://www.velouk.net/2022/04/21/news-t­he-pedal-club-april-lunch/

https://www.velouk.net/2022/03/14/news-p­edal-club-march-lunch/

*I'm not at all sure that I'm really qualified to be there with the great and the good of cycling, but I managed to sneak in somehow without anyone examining my credentials too closely!

I think your work might have potential, but I'd like to make two suggestions:

1. On your example, the base colour finish is not really good enough to justify the effort you've put into the artwork.

2. You should consider lacquering (varnishing) over the artwork, ideally both would be done in stoving enamel. In any case make sure (by experimenting) that none of the paints used react badly with each other.

Good Luck with your project!

Ron Brown (Hounslow) 100

A reminder - the closing date for this event is next Tuesday 17th May.

I admit to recycling this potted history of the event, but I think it's still relevant to anyone considering entering for the first time.

The Ron Brown Memorial 100

This event has a long tradition which goes back long before it came under Hounslow ‘management’. It had a previous existence as the Calleva Road Club 100 and was first promoted as an open event during the second world war, but it was originally run in the 1930’s as a club event. When this legendary club ran into difficulties in the mid fifties the Hounslow stepped into the breach and has run it continuously since 1956.

Over the years the promoting club has often provided the winning rider as well as the marshals, here in roughly chronological order: Kevin Fairhead (2 Wins) Jeff Marshall (2), Martyn Roach (4), Colin Roshier (3), Robin Jackson (1) and more recently Paul Holdsworth with two wins. The Hounslow has also shown an impressive consistency in the team award category, having taken the prize thirty times out of sixty possible occasions.
It would be wrong to imagine this is in any way a ‘club’ event and many past winners from other clubs have been on their way to winning that year’s BBAR championship, for example: Brian Kirby (1961), Ant Taylor (1969) and Michael Hutchinson (2000). Hutchinson’s victory is perhaps the most notable since it was his first ever attempt at the distance, and his main reason for entering was to get a qualifying time for that year’s championship 100; his winning time- 3.38.26!

Although the history may be interesting, the event is not stuck in the past. The 2016 edition provided a new course and event record by Keiron Davies who, as a novice 100 miler, recorded a stunning 3.27.34. The previous course record was held by five time winner Adam Topham (3.34.01) and the event record dated from its last promotion as National Championship in 1997 when Kevin Dawson won with 3.29.03.

The Hounslow hopes that all entrants will again be offered the best of the time trial tradition combined with an opportunity to record a fast 100 time.

The attached pic. is Jeff Marshall turning into Pangbourne Lane near the finish of the 1961 event. He was just twenty at the time and it was his first attempt at the distance. He went on to win it the next year - Jeff will be out helping yet again this year!

Hot Melt Glue

Here is a radical but simple solution to the seat post problem - forget the clamp, just use hot melt glue.

Clive Bonavia (google him) was an eccentric but excellent frame builder who used this method on all his later frames. He said it had three benefits: it saved him the trouble of making any kind of clamp, it saved the weight of the clamp and, most importantly, it prevented any water getting into the frame past the clamp (a common problem, causing corrosion).

Clive's main business was joinery, so he knew all about glue. Although I think this material was intended for wood, it seems to work perfectly for this purpose. It can be reheated any number of times to adjust the seat post, and the amount of heat required to free the glue does not damage the paint.

You should be aware that I'm just quoting Clive here, I'm not writing from personal experience, but in my experience he was always right about these technical matters.

So I suggest you google 'hot melt glue', and don't forget to clean and degrease everything before assembly!

How about touching it in with phosphoric acid? (One trade name for this is 'Kurust').

Don't forget to degrease it first - that is, remove the wax you put on it.

Many steel frames were said to be 'Bonderized' which was a form of phosphating, and it's quite possible that's why your frame hasn't rusted already.

I would touch it in with paint afterwards. If you can find a matt or eggshell touch up colour it will be less noticeable than using gloss.

Sprints and 26" pressures

Once upon a time there were 26" tubulars, but I doubt whether any useable tubs still exist in this size. The gap as shown on the front of John Dennis's Gillott looks as though it was intended for use with conventional 700's (tubs, naturally).

It was common practice to use ex racing frames intended for sprints for hack work using 26's and mudguards.

Did anyone race on pressures? Yes, they certainly did - it's not easy today to understand just how poverty stricken young people were in the past, and we need to remember that most racing cyclists were young. In 1935 Keith Mosedale (Calleva RC, born 1916) had a sensational victory in the Bath Road 100 on pressures with steel rims. I can't find the exact time this morning, but I think it was a comp. record. I must admit the fact that he was not on sprints was seen to be newsworthy, but you can guarantee he wasn't unique.

Brake Callipers
I would use Weinmann 500's on this bike. Perhaps not strictly contemporary, but very similar basic callipers to those that were available. And they work, although if there's going to be much in the way of hills, I'd certainly want two of them!

BTW the number is the drop to the brake blocks, so you don't want 810's.

Good luck with the ride.

No more than 5 out of 10 for Google's effort at translation here.

There always seems to be a problem with the word coureur. Jock Wadley tried to use it for his 'Sporting Cyclist' magazine, but had to give up in the end. Gerry Burgess used it for his brakes, but many heard it as 'courier'.

The word comes from the verb 'courir', basic meaning : to run, and 'coureur' can mean a runner, but I'd say that in most cases the first thing it means to most French speakers is a racing cyclist, which is how any human translator would render it in this passage.

Some one here might be interested in my post in the 'Half the Road' thread in the General forum.