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Bummer, thanks tho at least i know, i guess there pretty cheap on ebay anyway

Press the headset cups in place using a long bolt and two large washers (as you tighten the nut on the bolt the cups will be pressed into the frame)

To fit the crown race, i drilled a 1" hole in a block of mdf so it would slide along the steerer and used it to hit the race into place

Ive got this tourer but one of the fork legs is slightly bent as shown in the photo (the other looks fine). Ive got pleanty of equipment to bend it back but wondered whether it was safe to do so as it would require bending 20-30mm, by the way the fork isnt lugged

ollie

Ok so ive just bought a new stronglight headset as shown, the components are manufactured from alluminium but feature what i presume are stainless races which is fine. However the first pic shows the top race wich is pressed into the headtube. Now the actual stainless race has been pressed on to the alluminium part and cannot be removed. Whereas for the bottom race (lower pic) the stainless raceway just sits on top of the aluminium part and as shown in the photo sits about .1 of a mm higher all the way around. I just wondered whether this was normal for needle bearing headsets or whether prior to fitting it should be taken back to the shop??

Thanks

Ollie

Sorry for the supersize images, i thaught it would simply look a little clearer

Top race

Lower race

Hey not to worry, have now gone for the stronglight

Ok I need a new headset as my chorus is a bit past its best, anhow im stuck between the two headsets to replace it.. which is best??

Ollie

I like the sound of converting my frame to track dropouts, I was thinking about making some dropouts on the water cutter at uni and making a jig so i could braze them myself at some point

Just wack the chain in a tub filled about an inch deep in white spirit to degrease it, give it a shake for a minute or too, then let it dry on a radiator.

When dry put it back on the bike and apply wel lubricant - finish line's is pretty good

Ollie

I was talking to the guys at my local engineering place about digi calipers, and apparently for cheap digital versons, accuracy wize your better off with a decent £20 regular vernier caliper. As long as its not your el'cheapo £4.99 rubbish you should be able to read much more accuratley. Although for bike use I guess most tollerances you will be working to arn't that close (comparitivley) anyway tho..

Ollie

When this happened to me, I cut the quill stem off level with the headset allowing me to remove the fork. Using lots of WD40 gradually soaking the stem/steerer I was able to remove the quill stem by placing a pole inside the steerer and whilst holding on to the fork legs, smacking the pole against the floor, after about 10 mins of this the remaining piece of the quill then popped out.

Ollie

You do realise I'm going to have that in my head all afternoon now don't you!

Me too, nice idea tho.. at least no one has the 'Oh I didnt see you' excuse either.

Combine this with some laser engraving and you have a business. And lfgss will provide a long list of clients.

True, although I think my uni might see through the "skills building" element after a couple of sets, plus I cant see many people wanting to take the trouble to drill and tap their bars (hence why this design hasnt been mass produced.. that I know of)

I was thinking about getting them engraved using the water cutter tho, I just need to get round to making the designs up.

How did u make dem?

Hi thanks for the replies, there actually very simple, the main body is simply turned, then the position of the step was marked onto the bars. This enabled me to drill 3 holes each side (to hold as well as centre the plug in the bar), these were then tapped to accept a 3mm grub screw (ground at one end to enable them to sit flush with the bar once tightened)

Im not usually quite so obsessive about my bikes, although Ive only recently been trained on a lathe and didnt really want to fork out for plugs which may just get ripped out in a few months..

After a nasty crash the other day I managed to loose one of my bar plugs that came with my tape. Rather than buy new ones, which If I had another crash would also be ripped out, I turned my own.

Ive never been too keen on press fit plugs or those with expanders as I wanted my plugs to have a flush apperance. Rather than use an expander when turning the plugs I made a 2mm deep step, this then allowed me to drill and tap 3 2.5mm holes each side of the bar enabling me to secure each plug with 3 grub screws which tighten into it, preventing them from ratteling or being ton out.

The plugs in the right picture look a little gouged, although I think that effect may have been as a result of flash as there perfectly smooth??

When I set my star nut, I placed it on the steerer then tapped it in using a hammer and a ratchet and it did a pretty good job. (the ratchet was a similar width to the iniside diameter of the steerer)

Other than that you could allways measure up the inside diameter of your steerer and go to a local fabricators/DIY shop and get a piece of pipe, just smaller so it'll set the starnut square with the steerer tube. If you go to a fab shop you might even get the pipe as a free offcut!

I had the same problem when building my bike up not long ago, my seat tube seemed to be between 2 sizes so had to use a coke can shim in the end, although its still not quite right. Although the post holds, it can twist slightly, therefore I may buy a can of plack spray paint just to up the thickness a little, tho Ive allready snapped my campag seat bolt :(

I had this trouble about 2 weeks ago with a recessed bolt, If you cant get a traditional bolt you could allways opt for an m6 recessed bolt, just type something like "brake bolt" in to ebay, your sure to find something once your past all the listings for disk rotor bolts.

if youve no luck, pm me and i can dig you out a link for a supplier i ordered one from the other day

Simple, just use a pop rivet gun and a few pop rivets of the width you need..

as below....

I just use a G-Clamp with a piece of ply of cut beween each clamp surface and the headset cups to prevent denting them as the surface of the clamps is slightly textured.

Simple :-)

Yeah I had the same issue when I upgraded to the light Cannondale road fork, had to use 30mm for that (I believe Cannondale use a 27mm)

Oh, although my fork dates from around the mid 80's, I think it was simply that I was trying to use a rear brake which has a shorter thread, than due to the width of the fork crown, as it seems very similar to the size of some of my other road forks, unlike the much wider designs manufactured today.

Thanks for the replies, I have to admit Im not too keen on the spacer option myself as the top race is only pressed around 12mm into the headtube. Thes last owner had pressed another race (looked as if it was a spare lower race from the fork) onto the top race to space it up, only leaving a few mm of the race in the head tube, therefore I would only use a spacer as a last resort.

(Plus If I had a flush washer style spacer made, if required it would be even more of a pain to remove than that pervious spacer, given it wouldnt feature any form of raceway to gain purchase on)

Originally the locknut didn't reach but the previous owner simply used a 1" carbon spacer, which i gather should be fine.

I want to use a Cannondale threaded track fork on my road frame although the threading on the steerer is only an inch or so, and my 80's campag chorus headset needs around 2mm more thread to compress the headset bearings correctly.

Does anyone know of anyone or bike shop that can re-thread the steerer a slightly more in Somerset, as I need my bike to take to uni next saturday.

If this isnt possible within the timescale would it be a total "no no" if I got a local engineering company to make me up a 2mm spacer up on a lathe to space the upper race so it sat slightly higher removing the need to have my fork threaded if I cant find anyone to do it in time??

The bolt shouldn't go through the back. You should use a recessed nut that goes into the fork.

Ahh yeah, my mistake, I did mean nut (on another planet), I think the standard one was 10mm, but to compensate for the extra thickness of the fork bridge, Ive now ordered a 25mm one.

Ahh yes, now you mention it, the brake is actually a rear. I was on a bit of a budged and thaught, "ok im sure it would be fine!" (as you do) forgetting the difference in thread length.

Although some guy on ebay sells 25mm length replacements which should enable me to use a rear brake up front Link.

Just to check, the thread for a front brake is still the same for a rear? - i/e an M6 thread??

At the mo im building myself a budget fixed wheel bike, although after recieving a cheepo tektro front brake this morning, the bolt is about 8mm too short, therefore wont bolt throuhg the hole on my cannondale track fork.

Is it possible to buy replacments anywhere, or does anyone have a spare knocking about anywhere??