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I missed the last post and the drama(?). :D
What was user30954's advice on powdercoating after trying the linseed oil paint? Is chemical stripping needed or not?

Great story, lovely car, subbed!

Thanks a lot! I've added Schiltach to my list of places I want to visit next. ;-)
Should be a great ride starting in Freiburg and finishing in Schiltach.
Using the "9-Euro-Ticket" I can use the train to get back if the trip gets a little too long.
I'm new to cycling "longer" distances and don't know how far I can push it yet. ;-)

It really is!

The brake is an Avid BB7 SL. Power is good. It can lift the rear wheel at slower speeds.
As I said earlier, the movement is between the rotor and hub.
The quick release (bolt on skewer) is tight. I don't think it has anything to do with the issue.

I ordered a new rotor (TRP TR-25) to see how the fit compares to the Shimano rotor.
I also ordered some Loctite 638. That should fix the issue if everything else fails.

I already measured it and the difference ist about 0.5 mm.
Also put a shim under the rotor for good measure to rule out any possibility of bottoming out.

I'll stop spamming the thread now. Thanks for all the answers and suggestions.
In case that I'm able to solve the issue, I'll report back.

There's no gap with the lockring installed and tightened.

I tried the "two washers under the lockring" thing as well.
Same result as before.

I guess it comes down to the question, why my lockring can't seem to create enough clamping force to hold the rotor. I'll try to contact some people in my area (like Trickstuff) and see what they have to say. Over in the German forum "MTB-News" the Centerlock issue is well known and Trickstuff commented on it a couple of times. After reading all those posts, the explanations and possible solutions given are a bit inconclusive.

My other wheelset is 6-bolt. Should have stuck with that for this build as well. Don't have any other Centerlock rotors to try unfortunately.

Great pictures. Where did you take them? I live in Freiburg, also in the Black Forest region. Especially the first picture looks like somewhere I'd love to visit.

Little update:
I tried two different lockrings, with internal and external splines.
I took a 0.7 mm HG washer, split it to get it over the spline and installed it behind the rotor to remove any chance of the lockring bottoming out.
Then I tried more grease on the threads and also grease on the washer of the lockring to prevent friction and hopefully actually reach those 50 Nm I want to tighten it with.

I'm still feeling and seeing the radial movement.
I'm out of ideas to be honest. Can't really explain what's happening and why.
I guess I'll just have to live with it.

Thanks for all the replies.
I think I'll try to get a Centerlock spacer/washer to rule out that my lockring is bottoming out before reaching the necessary clamping force to keep the rotor in place. The thin metal washer gets crushed when tightening down the lockring though, so I'm not convinced that's the problem.

I had the torque wrench calibrated last year. Both threads are clean and had a small amount of grease applied so friction in the thread shouldn't be an issue either.

Centerlock shims and a different style lockring are what's left.

Yes, mine also has the thin metal washer.

Sorry if the last video clip was a little confusing.
Look at the two white dots, one on the disc rotor and one on the hub. They move relative to each other with the brake applied and rocking the bike back and forth.

How are shims supposed to solve the issue? The lockring isn't bottoming out on the Centerlock mount of the hub.

Radial movement with lockring installed.

Torque to 50 Nm.

Just removed and reinstalled the rotor.
hub: Bitex BX106F, rotor: Shimano SM-RT81 160 mm

Here's photos of the splines of both hub and rotor and a video to show the amount of radial movement without the lockring.

It's a pretty common problem apparently.
For certain combinations of hubs and rotors the tolerance in the splined interface is quite sloppy... There are Centerlock adapters that fit securely onto the spline with a pinch bolt but they are hard to get and expensive. I would also need new 6-bolt rotors as well.
Hence the idea of removing the radial play with Loctite.

PS: lockrings are tightened to 40 Nm, going up to the upper limit of 50 Nm doesn't fix the issue.

That's encouraging! :-D

Question about Centerlock disc brake rotors:

I've got a combination of Centerlock hubs and rotors with a particularly large amount of free movement.
I know that it's probably not an issue regarding the brake's functionality but feeling the rotor move on the spline with the brake locked still bothers me.

Would a retaining compound like Loctite 638 be able to take up all the free space?
How difficult would it be to change the rotor once it is worn?
Do I need an activator or will it cure reasonably fast without one?

Has anyone even tried this method before?

Paint looks fantastic! Can't wait for pictures of it built up. :-)

Great progress overall!
Love the shot from the water. :-)

Has the leaky window issue been resolved yet?

I'd try with a torx bit/socket first. Get the size that is a tight fit and carefully "hammer" it into the bolt head.

Do you get the noise only when the chain goes onto the chainring at an (severe) angle?

I've had similar "issues" with narrow wide chainrings. After some riding the drivetrain gets a lot smoother, I guess it's all those sharp edges on the chainring getting slightly worn away.
Can't comment on the wax thing. Still using chain lube...