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When I did it, I used enough housing to go along the groove under the tape, and secured the pinch bolt before routing the cable - when I curved it to fit the bar, it tightened up and left the lever solid as a rock (at least in one direction; it was an STI lever shifting the front).

Then when I got sick of only having one brake, it was easy to extend the housing without redoing the tape.

The bell thing is pretty damn cool, tho

... Cone under?

Also hilarious

Hilarious

Grrr... Anyone know what's up here?

That thing is fucking sick. Increase the bitsa factor with an old Mavic rear brake for the win

Holy crap! Very fancy.

Struggling to figure out the point, tho

Came across this post like a week ago

This is awesome https://ciechanow.ski/mechanical-watch/

Just emerged, dazed and blinking, from the rabbit hole... What an incredible blog. The quality of content an order of magnitude above almost anything else.

The only other contender providing such quality info I could name, regardless of field, would be https://m.youtube.com/@Clickspring .

The fact he's a clockmaker... Coincidence? Well yes, I'd say, since the guy who simulates a watch in your phone isn't particularly into watches; he just figured it was just a meaty project he could sink his mad chops into.

Anyway, this business can't be reposted too much. So crazy good

Well there you go, you can see what effect a couple of years have had before you even start.

Exactly! The cage is different though, if I remember right

From what I know of lipo batteries, they don't really like to be fully charged or fully flat; they're best stored with a half charge.

Interesting question whether 2-3 years is long enough for it to go dead... I'm pretty sure enough of a half charge would still be there after a year, so maybe check it then?

Forever ago, I acquired a clamp-on Superbe Pro FD, and it was slick AF - slicker even than a braze-on one!

It mounted to the seat tube like a brake lever - a chromed steel bracket is stretched around the tube and comes together with a nut under a nice little ally cap with a chromed allen head bolt sitting flush in it. Super slick and more rigid than a braze-on mount by far.

7700 is all Octalink, 3 different BBs for track, road and triple. The DA ones use needles as well as balls if I remember right.

The crank arms were a very pretty evolution on the previous generation, and Dura-Ace was the first to be hollow (again, iirc - I think the arms were forged in a C section and the back welded on at first before they figured out how to do them in one piece).

The major bummer about 7700 cranks is that they weren't anodised! What suckage. Stupid clearcoat instead. Although I suspect the 25th anniversary special edition ones were proper.

This is smart. Sad to see the end of Tiagra and rim brakes though

Looks a bit wrong on 7800 due to the fatter spider arms, but should look mint on 7400, probably even look better than on 7700.

Appreciating the nonchalantly understated drop; he didn't use the other side of the street

Needs the discontinued anthracite sidewall IMO

One long spacer can sometimes look like you meant it.

90 degrees looks pretty okay too

Yeah IKR. There are some things I can't make myself like the look of despite knowing it works better, and that's pretty much top of the list...

A positive angled stem uses less metal and is stiffer; the only reason not to do every bike that could have a shorter head tube like that is aesthetics.

Be worth it tho

Surely more production runs in order

Great idea!

Only you need to disassemble the frame to get the heatshrink tube on.

27cm seat post diameter is super weird alright