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As I thought, the cable/hose that passes in front of the Kinesis logo, on the headtube, would route better if there were 2 cable ports on both sides of the frame, instead of 1 on the driveside and 2 on the non-driveside.
I did bring this up with Rory, from Upgrade, when I bumped into him at Stan's Bike Shack, so future owners may get neater routing (and less chance of cable rub)
At first, I thought that the current set up seemed to be designed for European riders (brakes reversed) but then realised that the front brake cable would then be on wrong side of the fork.
All a bit confusing, TBH.

Looking good - do you have any pictures that show the cable routing from the bars to the frame?

Despite seeing the post by @TurtleRecall, during my speccing up process, I bought a 4S disc frameset. My decision was influenced by the fact that upgrade/Kinesis dealt with the issue so well, that they are fairly close to where I live, and I kind of know some of the staff (due to having a mutual love of Stan's Bike Shack)
The build has been very successful, I'm very pleased with how it looks/rides and look forward to many happy rides on it.
Have only managed just short of 600 miles on it so far, due to not being a commuter, and spending a fair bit of time on my MTB, but the (very nearly) 100 miles that I did on Sunday were an absolute pleasure.

@bertocq
Sorry if I confused you - merely wanted to compare mounting methods to those used by @hippy.
It would appear that, whilst you were initially bowled a swerve ball by Kinesis, they came up with the goods, by providing a replacement rotor in the appropriate size. I don't mind companies making mistakes, too much, if they address the issue in an honest and agreeable manner - so I wouldn't write them off so quickly (but that's just my opinion)

I put 140mm on the rear of my (55.5cm) 4S disc, as that's​ what they recommend on the Kinesis website. The rs805 caliper is mounted directly, without any adaptor (but I did have fun working out that the length specified on the bolts referred to the thickness of the frame where the bolt passes through, and NOT the length of the bolt)

I weigh 90kg, and 160mm front & 140mm rear hasn't failed to stop me yet.

Holy mudflaps, Batman!

@TurtleRecall - are those standard on those (PDW?) guards?

Riding is a bit rare at the moment - but very enjoyable.

Not been out on it as much as would like, but I'm loving it....

The weather was wonderful, today, and despite the unavailability of riding buddies (yes, I was Billy-no-mates), I ventured out for a most pleasant 4 hours of (mostly) bimbling around quiet Sussex country lanes amongst the first bluebells of the year.
Having rotated the bars slightly upwards, so that the hoods were more upright, the riding position was improved considerably - just need to reduce the reach setting for the brake levers, as it didn't feel very natural when braking on the drops.
As my confidence and fitness improve, this bike just gets better and better.

Happy Bob.

https://www.strava.com/activities/925238847/shareable_images/map_based?hl=en-US&v=1491154092

UPDATE

After an embarrassingly​ slack start to the year, resulting in extremely low levels of fitness (as proven during my recent singlespeed MTB trip to Wales) I managed to fit in my first completely dry ride on the 4S disc.
Was able to push things a bit more than on previous rides, due to added confidence in grip levels, and (despite not really having power in my legs yet) was very pleased with how it went.
Nice and quiet, no noticeable flex when riding out of the saddle, and nice & comfy, due to the tubeless tyres.
Rode a bit more on the drops and the big ring, than I have done in the past, so getting used to that, along with the relatively twitchy handling, compared to my MTB.

Looking forward to lots of summer miles.

:)

Only done a couple of rides - 30 miles and 20 miles - as the roads have been so slippery for over a month now. (First ride went past the Upgrade office)
It handles really nicely - at the speeds I was prepared to go at - the drivetrain is completely silent and feels nice and 'tight', if you know what I mean?

I'm happy to wait out the better weather, though, as dodgy conditions are what my mountain bikes are for.

Ah, that's better - feel like my old self again ;)

I know - damp cloth at hand, is the order of the day, I believe.

Update...

I spent a bit of time trying various combinations of things.
Tried the bolts supplied with the caliper against the holes in the caliper adapter - showed the same resistance as when I tried them in the fork, so I began to suspect the thread lock on the bolts. Applied more pressure, and the bolt went all the way in.
Removed the bolt and tried a standard M5 bolt from my toolbox - this went in cleanly, so I tried the same bolt in the fork and that worked, too.

With this information, I swallowed hard and put the caliper bolt into the fork with more pressure.

Success! (And not a small amount of relief)

Tomorrow's stress test - cutting a carbon steerer for the first time, ever.

Well, after a lot of thought, measuring and worrying, I finally settled on a frame size, and took delivery of a beautiful blue frameset.

Since picking it up, yesterday, I've only has a short time for building but have made some progress.

After working out a rather neat way of mounting the crown race to the fork steerer (more about that later) I'm a bit concerned by the brake mounting holes, on the fork. The bolts that came with the caliper seem to have a different thread to the fork holes, and will only go in a couple of turns before putting up more resistance than I'm comfortable with.
I've also tried the bolts that come with the caliper adapters which are supplied with the frame, but these exhibit the same behaviour.
Are the fork holes a standard size (if there is such a thing as a 'standard')?
Should I just be brave, and apply more pressure?

Good news, @MrSweary.

I got a call, today, to let me know that my frame has arrived.
After a lot of planning, thinking, measuring and waiting, I will finally be able to begin my build - tomorrow.

Kinda excited.

You're turning into my wife @hippy - expecting me to re-interpret what you say ;)

Yes, but the point that I'm making is that two bikes with different top tube lengths can have the same reach.

The Wilier stem is 100mm.
However, changing stem length would be to compensate for the reach, not necessarily top tube length, surely?

For what it's worth, here is a summary of the information that I've compiled so far...

Thanks for the extra info, @edscoble - apart from the angles (which I won't even begin to attempt to measure) - they correlate with what I've measured this morning.
Several measuring sessions - with the aid of a laser line - resulted in a reach of nearer to 400mm (not sure how I got 425 last night)

I think I need to sleep on it - and probably wait 4 weeks ;)

Actual

540mm - centre of seat tube to centre of head tube.

Yes - to above the crank axle