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That's true, don't know when they switched from laser etched to screen printed but I'm just cleaning some 1992/3 cranks and they were still laser etched then. Should the '87s be engraved?
Road c-record were all laser-etched, dont know about track, dont even know if they made the track-group as early as in 86-87
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I don't see a problem with 1987 parts on a 1986 frame, after all we have all bought frames at Christmas and not finished building them up until the next summer :-) It's period correct, not precisely synchronous, that is the aim.
Except that the cranks could be brand new 2010 stock, and are certainly not '87 C-record
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@Koi, your bike is really pretty. the proportions are spot-on for a classic bike. The folks with too-small frames and long seatposts are entitled to their own tastes, but yours is correct for the bike. Depends if you want to look like a teenager or not.
Long stems bad for handling, long seatposts bad for just looking stupid.That was not was I was referring to. He should just get a good fist-length of seatpost exposed and a stem which is only 80 mm is too short for a 56-59 cm frame as Kois I would say he should have a 110 mm stem, YMMV
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I'm banned from eBay :-)
By the way, if you guys see something suitable for an older lo-pro , let me know.
I've got tektro levers, but I really don't want to fit them on that bike.I would source some chrous or record brake-levers (first aero-style) like on the Moser above. They were set up like that in the 80's. TT-levers and brands like Tektro and Token werent invented yet. The (preferably white) rubber on 80's levers also fits ok on bullhorns
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*Originally Posted by Koi
Almost got my first ride up and running.
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I would get a smaller frame and a longer stem, and then put the saddle up accordingly, the proportions on that one are wrong.I read advise on how to get a custom frame build, that you should start on deciding which length of stem you wanted and then get the frame build to your measures with stem length as a fixed point.
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I don't think anyone enforces it, I've specified a fair few bikes with the front brake on the left hand side and haven't fallen foul of the law.
But it is also perfectly legal to you as the customer, as I understand it it is only illegal to push the bike over the counter right to front unless the customers wants it opposite...
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" it is illegal in this country (under the Pedal Cycles Safety Regulations 2004) for a retailer to sell a new bicycle with its brake levers the other way around.
However it is perfectly legal for you to ride with them the other way around and for a dealer to swap them over at your instructions, after the bike is sold. "
Cheers
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The front lever on that bike is on the left rather than on the right.
But if you've only got one lever I think it does make sense for it to be on the left so that you still have braking when signalling with your right hand, which you signal with far more often than with your left hand.
I dont know know if its continental (I am danish) but I´ve always had the left lever going to the front brake. Confused me a lot to get my first mountain-bike in 91, which was set up the opposite.
Is it coomon to have the right towards the front in UK?
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I know about the price;) considering I paid £150 for the pair (though including a new 47 tooth chainring) it was just to start the negotiation in case I had some offers.
A shame that the campyoldys are unfluted Super Records, and that he hasnt got a whole pair.
I am probaply going to buy a new pair - or try to find another old whole pair
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Left Campagnolo fluted pista 165 mm pedalarm wanted
I am looking for a replacement of a cracked NOS which only lasted me 14 days before this happened.
I could probably live with a strada as well... no idea what it should cost - 10 - 20?Alternatively : Right fluted etc for sale with 4 ccampa + 1 sugino chainring bolts
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soperriva
Somebody should take that 600 group straight to the porn thread I assume its getting on the Gazelle?
(A bit extravagant with both the long and medium / short cage rear derailleur)
Have you good some lever-hoods?
Please find some old NOS-rims to build the wheels with! ANd have you got the casette too? It was nice that you were able to build the freewheel with rings of choice and spacers!Good luck with the build (could you get stem and seatpost for this generation too - or was that the next generation - DA ex/ax?)
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If somebody took that Nagasawa to a track (which the owner probably doesnt, hence the light) he would probably be required to use clips and straps and change some parts too, as he would probably be a pro keirin-racer. Not many track-cyclists apart from those use steel-frames today. Not even in the 6-days.
Very nice build though. Nagasawa are some of the nicest keirin-frames - if not the nicest.

Sorry, I should have written that its not practical with a front deeper than the rear, but above all it looks unbalanced and shit - allthough it could be moore aerodynamic - but that is no advantage if the weather and rider cannot handle it.