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Smart ask.

dtherave, I think you meant couldnt be arsed, but thats about the size of it. Personally id be happy to pay about a fiver to race, but im not interested in doing someone elses promo work.

polybikeuser [quote]J4mmd I have a few Tufo tubular clinchers,

Er, I'm confused, are these tubulars or clinchers? As I understood it tubular tyres are "tubular" having the inner tube (semi)permanently sewn into the tube, while clinchers fit onto the rim around the inner tube and are “clinched” in place by the bead on the tyre being trapped under the hook on the rim when the tyre’s inflated. So surely a tyre is a tub or a clincher, but not both.

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Tufo do a weird half way tyre where a kind of expanding rubber wedge folds outwards to engage with the bead hook (on the inside of the rim), as the tyre is inflated. On top of this is the tubular tyre, all incased in the same bit of rubber. The best (fastest) tyre will offer as little resistance as possto the movement of the air inside the tyre. At higher pressures the threads in the tyre casing compress adding further unwanted stiffness to the tyre. A really nice tyre will iron out the road, especially at high speed and power. The point of the Tufo (and regular tubs) is to eliminate the tubes contact with the rim and remove the bead. When a clincher tyre is inflated the bead will not move in the rim and in order for the tyre to squash it must fold itself over the hook edge of the rim, this offers restance to squashing of the tyre. By contrast a tubular shape, of any sort, is easy to squash and so the tub depends, more exclusivly, on air pressure. safe

I know casper, i'm only pulling your leg. After all it's not the taking part that counts, it's the not winning. X

Couriers only, eh?
Have the civilians hurt some feelings?

I just noticed that Buffalo Bill has put his name down to race. Does that mean i can be MC?

The gearing doesnt really make any difference. Youll not be able to work out your time, It all changes every race. Besides which your performances will vary as you warm up (or get cold!) and when its head-to-head youll do better. The only strategy to employ is to get a hard first rev and keep going smooth with lots of muscle tension.

check out the '08 standard Langster, it looks nicer than all the rest.

Instead of using flat pedals, use spd's with the left side cleat reversed. Or us a tandem crank, which is designed to go on the left.

Clicking (or creaking or cracking) is often caused by your BB. Its likley to be down to an ingress of filth into the threads between the frame and the BB. The noise is movement. Once the cranks are off check the BB is smooth rolling then give the threads a good clean (wire brush?) use some sort of sealant (rather than grease) to prep the threads. Copper-slip is ok. Shimano do some specific stuff, scrounge some off you LBS. Some mechanics use plumbers PTFE tape wrapped around the BB thread. When refitting the cranks make sure the interface is clean and dry(i know it doesnt make sense), and check the bolts after your next ride. This should prevent them from creaking.
It`s unlikly to be your pedals, but to test this theory just try riding with a different pair.

Mr Conan,

There is a difference between changing a chainring and a sproket. I dont know the sums but the chainring controls the leverage (torque) which is not greatly affected by the sprocket until you get down to track sproket type sizes (14t). Using a small chainring (39t or less) is good for low cadence pedalling. Attempting to spin such a gear is difficult because you need a lot of muscle tension to keep it smooth and comfortable. Using a large chainring (above about 41t) promotes a spinning cadence, because the leverage is low and resitance is more even around the pedal circle. A 46x18 gear and a 36x14 are both about 69", but when used througout a range of pedal speeds they would feel quite different from one another. In summary: 44x16 is quite a usable gear for london(and will be better for skids and tricks than your current). If youre looking to develop your spinning (or youve got poorly knees) you might like 42t instead, but dont go smaller for road use.

Mr 4130,
Please ensure that your brake pads are making contact flat onto the rim. If the pads squeeeeeel then make them touch slightly nose in (toed in). If they still squeeeeeel then file them clean.

Im not explicitly familiar with sora brakes but they might be the sort that cannot be toed in. This is correctable by bending the brake mounts (with the pads removed) using an adjustable spanner. Lots of bike shops wont do this, because it`s a bit brutal, yet it is often the only solution to not having to wait for your pads to wear flat against the rim. The good news is you should only have to do it once, then the brake is set.

Use decent cable. Most bikes off the shelf use no-name tat. Recommend shimano.

Every once in a while check that the brake is centred. Sqeeeez the brake lever while looking down at the brake. If the wheel is moved to one side by the brake then grab the whole brake and straighten it up, testing you progress with the lever. The brake will then feel more positive. If the brake moves too easily, check that the brake bolt is tight (it`s important).

Occasionally clean the pads and rims. I use a file and wire wool respectivly. Remove bits of aluminium from the pads.

Sorry, i went on a bit there, but i think that`s everything.

the pins are usually soft metal, so hacksaw the end off (so it's flat) and then drill it.

Well i work at putney cycles in south london, so if you've got spd shoes then you're welcome to come and try (provided you don't weight 18st). Not sure what sort of bet you had in mind, perhaps just a sporting challaenge?

The rotafix method is the best bet (if you can work it out). I use it to fit my sprockets without a lock ring on a brakeless bike. After experimenting with tightness it has never come off.

Since im slightly obsessive about the skillful use of a cycle gear Id like to promote an informal competion, based upon maximum acheived cadence.
If you don`t have a cadence-o-meter, then go to the bike analyzer http://www.arachnoid.com and use you maxed speed and gear sizes.
Entries will be submitted on a trust basis and the winner will receive nothing more than the respect of his/her peers, on account of having ventured into the unknown.

My entry is 193 rpm, at 40.9 mph using 42x16 and a 25mm tyre,?down a hill on the way to Brighton.

Good luck to one and all.

I suggest you apply yourself to all of the above.
Since you only have one gear but don`t ride at a constant speed, the manner in which you pedal provides your variation. Longer rides are good for learning this since you may be forced to account for fatigue, which can be dealt with by using good technique. If, when riding, you find yourself without the distraction of heavy traffic, then apply your focus to your pedalling. After all, your not doing anything else so concentrate on what your doing and improve your movement.
If you gearing lends itself to only one type of pedalling (powerful and slow or quick and smooth) then your missing out on acquiring a wider range of skills.

Here's a useful trick for getting tight tyres on tight rims.
When you get to the last tight bit of the tyre, starting opposite the tight bit, twist the tyre with thumb and forefinger and repeat (5-6 times) working your way towards the tight bit. Then go back to the opposite point and go the other way. The object is to locate the beads (wire inside tyre) directly in the centre of the rim, which is the smallest diameter. This should give you a slightly less tight bit. Repeat as ness'.
I've used this method for years and have NEVER had to use tyre levers, which should be avoided. Good luck.

Its certainly a question of conditioning. Concentrate on how you move your feet, ie around in circles, not on pushing or pulling or on imagining some shape or pressure. Having constant pressure on the pedals (as you should) provides constant muscle tension ; so develop smooth pedals with a low gear. Dont increase your gear size whilst complaining of "spinning out". Instead, when at the limit of your cadence, think of your feet in circles, and improve the dexterity and so the speed range of your feet.
Avoid a chain ring smaller than 42.
Remember that if you neglect your pedalling technique it will fade, and so requires continual attention.

I prefer the extra leverage, when on the drops, for low cadence climbing. When riding a highish steady cadence i lean my weight on extra long drops, to take the weight off my legs. My bars are 39cm and are slightly flared. I rate drops since youve only got one gear and your bars should help you get the most out of it. Go to you local old school bike shop and ask for second-hand bars. Youll pay about a fiver a pair. I got some nitto noodles and a crazy flared specialized (?) cross bar, from AW cycles Colliers Wood.