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Well, I’m a bit fitter than I was this time last year,(lockdown has it’s advantages). If I can make more progress over the summer I’ll try a few local Hill Climbs in the autumn.

A few more pictures.
I haven’t weighed it, it’s light.
I haven’t added up the cost, not bad, I had the crankset already.

I never got round to posting pictures of this thing finished.
•Lots of cheap eBay carbon.
•Super Record crankset, minus big ring.
•Dura-ace Di2 derailleur.
•Climbing buttons and Alfine display as fwd junction box
•Super-six HiMod forks
•KEO Blade pedals with Ti axles
•Conti Sprint tubulars

Considering this seems to have been built in a flower bed with an adjustable spanner and a multi-tool, it is shaping up to be a deeply cool conveyance. I can image Keith Chegwin riding it, while eating Spangles and wearing flared trousers.

Keep up the good work.

No idea!

It's a great looking machine though. Is it front wheel drive?

Hang on, is it your good self sir?

Is he asleep?

http://rossinproject.blogspot.com/2014/02/rossin-compact-carbon-fiber.html

This is more like it-

Another

Last try.

Pi

I want to build an aero bike, I'm not talking about just a modern aero-frame with tubes shaped as much by the marketing department as by the wind tunnel, but otherwise much like any other racing bike.

I've got an Argon 18 time trial frame (E-112 I think) its damaged, rather like this one:-https://lfgss.microcosm.app/api/v1/files/054627761e598202049833ce3805b3e9619ed1cb.JPG
So the first job will be to repair it, and I'll start with that, but what I really want is a fairing.

You wouldn't think of building a racing motorcycle without fairing, so why are they so rare on bicycles?*

*Probable because they are:-

1. UGLY
   
2. Heavy
   
3. Awkward
   
   

Still I'm sure the gains will be worth it!

Don't expect rapid progress, and the budget will be small, but if anyone has any experience of faired bikes or you just want to laugh at the stupidity of the idea, let me know your thoughts...

https://www.notechmagazine.com/category/pedal-power/page/2

Would happily take either or both of these if still available and we could arrange postage:-

Castelli Perfetto RoS Gloves (Size L)
Kask Protone Road Helmet (Matte Finish)

Steve.

Just finished the 26” or 650 bike.
I used some parts from the 20” build, Di2 parts, saddle, seat post, brakes.
New parts- Wheels (obvs), drop bars , levers, lovely Stronglight chainset (150mm cranks 34t ring and chain guard).

I am moved, beautiful, thanks for sharing.

I've got one of these frames for my daughter too. We built a 20" wheel one a while ago but she's getting too big for it now.
I'm looking for some forks so let me know if you find any more!
I'll watch your build with interest, and post ours when I make a start...

Here's the 20"- https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/301477/?offset=25#comment13575899

Hello Mr Skid,

If you still have the forks I'll take 'em, Spuik shoes too if you are still here!

Steve

http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/Departments/carbon-fiber-kits.aspx

Mine was the rapid repair kit

These reason for the random orange paint?
I already had an unused rattle can from a previous project that never got past the primer stage- I thought it looked good in grey.

At last, I think we can call the frame finished. Now it’s time to put the thing together.

The frame post repairs.
Needs some filler and some paint. Nothing fancy, I won't be trying to restore the original finish, just something to make it decent and protect from the elements- i.e. UV and moisture.
The Continental Tubs are not glued yet, just stretching for a day or two to make final fit easier.
It's going to have Di2 rear mech and Super Record, single ring crankset.

There was a small crack right along the top of the tube, about 20mm long.

I sanded the area down to the carbon weave, stop sanding when the dust turns black.

1. Masked up with electrical tape, the resin won't stick to it as it would with masking tape.
   
2. Cut three small patches of the carbon cloth, each a little bigger than the last.
   
3. Mixed up half the supplied epoxy resin. Painted the resin over the repair area.
   
4. Applied the first (smallest) patch followed by more resin.
   
5. Repeat for the remaining two patches. The carbon cloth is a pretty fragile weave and needs to be handled with care.
   
6. Cover the area with release film- the white sheet on the bench, then wrap with in the blue plastic film.
   
7. I then tried to use a heat shrink wrap, but my heat gun (the other half hair dryer!) wasn't hot enough so I ditched that and wrapped tightly in more electrical tape. Leave for 24 hours.
   

Update on the Argon 18-

Second frame repair carried out:-

Here's the kit I used, Easy Composite rapid repair kit. £43 for everything you need. Masked up with electrical tape- Non-stick.

Just about finished, still need that derailleur bolt and a Campagnolo aero seat post would be nice. Don't look to closely at the bar tape, but other than that I think it looks good.
It rides very nicely, noticeably stiffer than my Raleigh Roadace which is a similar vintage and weight, that is Reynolds 531c whereas this one is a Tange tubeset.
The tubular tyres are fun too, I'm sure they make a different noise to clinchers. Might take awhile to get used to the (non-indexed) downtube friction shifters- I must remember to look where I'm going when I'm changing gear!

Yes you can, no junction a needed if you have a display.
That's how I setup this thing and it works a treat:-
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/301477/newest/