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Interested in the tektro, are both front and rear 47-57?

headset I have here is incomplete

eurgh I've had similar a couple of times now with various things. small parts missing that are not cheap to replace. Feel like too much on an ahole bringing it up..

frameset looks great tho

Kiss the hippo has 50% off atm with code: nicetreat

Think it might be new customers only not sure

It’s insane isn’t it!! They’re sooo expensive too

Lol. It’s simple when you know how ;-). You never know you might be missing a crucial bit!

i would just try the existing chainrings with a 10spd chain, might be fine

Am I barking up the wrong tree?

Possibly, you shouldn’t need to buy anything or do any rewiring with the powunity kit. They sell different products for various drive units- if you get the bosch universal kit it should work with every bosch motor.. maybe contact powunity support with the product and what gen bosch you’ve got and I’m sure they’ll help you

Do you / buzz bike have an account with Magura?

Pretty sure they will tell you to just buy a new cable.

dibs the rear mech for @sodha

I wonder how it would ride

I imagine it would be just fine, until you have a bit of cargo that completely interferes with the handlebars and makes it unrideable :)

Cool, Lever bleed / mini bleed / burp are all synonyms for the same thing afaik…

Personally don’t like doing a bleed / burp with pads or rotors in, although less of an issue if pads and rotors are new. The main reasons being is you can overfill the system and make it difficult to reset pistons / worst case they can over extend and leak.

What is the correct method

What are the brakes on your bike?

Fully charge probably has already looked but before bleeding I’d have a check of the pad and rotor wear. Also- Before messing about with a full bleed Id recommend putting a bleed block in and burping, seeing if you can sort it that way.

Last thing have you adjusted your throw at the lever? Ie brought it closer to or further from the handlebar

Is the axle tight and hub nice n secure..?

Thanks for the leads both!

Anything KMC will be fine, but I think I’d recommend not getting the absolute cheapest ones

Does anyone know of any collectors / bike nuts - preferably in the south of England - that might have a Zündapp KS 750 or any other German ww2 era motorbike in their collection?

Thank you, must have missed that one

Thread dredge! Does anyone know of any collectors / bike nuts - preferably in the south of England - that might have a Zündapp KS 750 or any other German ww2 era motorbike in their collection?

Sooooo cool!

Wanted to stop my omnium’s head tube getting scratched up by cargo, bought a bit of copper pipe and chopped it in half, snaps on nicely. Might put some double sided tape on it to secure, might be alright as is. A bit of PVC pipe would also work but in 25 years this will have aged nicely :D

The stickers 😎

If it were me I’d get any half decent mtb hub i like :).. pref with a steel freehub, 32h+

I also like having dynamo lights, so a suitable dynamo hub for the front (if it were me)

Both front and rear? What cargo (weight, axle interface and what e-assist?), how hilly is the area and how often are you going to use it.. do you need disc brake mounts? and are you looking for an IGH on the rear?

Failure from "over-tightening" is caused by repeated re-tightening of properly installed cranks. In use, an aluminum crank squirms on its taper, and because the retaining bolt prevents it from moving off the taper, it elbows itself away from the bolt and up the taper ever so slightly. The resulting loss of preload, after hard riding, can be detected by how easily the bolt can be turned.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

checking my crank bolts regularly

By check do you mean tighten? IIRC that’s something that breaks square taper cranks ( constant tightening periodically). If it’s just check then no need for concern hehe 😅