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NDS :(

Beautiful bike though.

Well you could argue that it's a new bike and the owner is still finding his or her perfect fit by moving around spacers. But yes, it needs to flip that stem and lose the tower of power.. This is just ridiculous, typical Radavist if you ask me.

@TvH, very true.

You mean, how did I figure out the right place to drill my steerer?

I put my stem in right place, removed the front plate and put a sharpy inside to mark where I can drill. Then found the right depth by just holding the expander next to the steerer.

I have a SL70 ergo on my Cielo.

I'm sorry, I don't have any pictures. But I used this extra short expender plug instead of a star nut. Drilled at the lower part of the stem clamp in the steerer so it just clears the expander.

@hippy, I was lucky enough to have a whole crowd of people criticise me for drilling the bars. But after 4 years of real abuse they still don't have any cracks or signs of wear/stress/fatigue.

I've seen some extra thick bearings that cover the gap from 1 1/2 to 1 1/8. Basically do the same.

Or get him to machine it to a 11 speed body, you'll never have this problem again.

10 speed body? Go for the new ultegra 11-34.

Still a cool build!

Buy another SRAM BB and this time grease it up after after every 6 months, it'll last you forever:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QbouYrhYho

I would go for a Niner fork:

Awesome stuff those Ritcheys, do prefer the blue one though.

TBH neither do I.

I can imagine you don't want your precious rear TT tubular to hit the road while riding to the start.

For moving your TT bike:

Festkas are so cool.

Thanks! You've got a nice one coming your was as well :)

Titanium is a bit softer than steel, so wouldn't be a problem. It took 7 grinding stones though..

I want to drill a hole in carbon bars to fit di2 wires into a stem housing a junction box, 11 speed. Then, I want to run the cables down the steerer and out of a hole into the top or down tube....

Yes, I did exactly this with aluminium bars and a carbon fork (steerer). I have been fine for 3,5 years now, which included al kinds of gravel, mud, whatever some MTB trails threw at it..
Drilled the bars:


Drilled the steerer:

Had to use a Dremel with a grinding stone for the headtube:

Than had to pull the di2 wires through after I used some fishingline and lead:

Wow that's crazy, same gravel throughout the whole of the UK.

Over here in the Netherlands there are huge differences in the kinds of gravel.

Arnhem gravel after rain:

Eindhoven gravel after rain (50 miles from Arnhem):

"Gravel"

No I'm suggesting the bike won't look so awkward with some 40mm gravel tyres. Its got huge clearances, making it look unnecessarily untukt with those 28(?)mm slicks.

It's just missing gravel tyres.

any recommendations on cheapest/easiest/quickest way to get a custom decal?

Ebay! They have loads of UK custom decal sellers.

Lateral stiffness. An L shape is so much stronger than an I shape.

I would just do eccentric BBs.