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@brun,
my front door is done like this, i.e. not ALL burnt off and it's been like it for 15 years plus, I get it painted every few years. There's probably still some original Edwardian paint on there no doubt! You still need to ensure that any exposed wood is primed and knots sealed etc but otherwise sound paint is sound paint and makes a good base for new paint provided it's keyed and undercoated.
I suppose it comes down to what's easier scraping off the loose, filling and sanding the flaky parts or stripping, part filling and sanding the entire door?

@Brun
might be considered a bodge but have you considered simply scraping off the loose/flakey paint and where there's a large difference in the surface between paint/wood then filling and sanding it to a smooth finish. I've had decorators in the past that argued if the paints is solid why strip it. It's always felt like a bodge to me but it sorta makes sense.

@graunch
Yep "engineered" you're correct, I'd forgotten the proper name for it and yes I'm running off same boiler as my water (megaflo, which is GREAT) and regular radiators BUT the mistake I made was running UF and Rads off the same loop/circuit so that the main central heating has to be on AND the thermostat has to be up at higher temp than what I want my UF to be at. In retrospect my UF should have been connected up to the boiler on it's own and therefore truly independent. In practise it's not much of an issue but if I was doing it again I would separate it. I guess I could retrofit rad thermostats on each rad and rely on these instead of the room stat.

Going back to quality of the flooring, we used KersaintCobb, which I think at that time had only just started making wooden flooring. My installer said that cheaper brands he'd seen were out by as much as 3mm from one end of the plank to the other and it made laying it a nightmare and therefore more like to fail in the future.

@graunch
I've got underfloor wet (from the main boiler) heating under oak flooring but it's not solid oak it's laminated (I think it's called that but it's plywood and then a 6mm top layer) and It's approved by the manufacturer for underfloor heating.
My builder said when he laid it that it's essential that you get a really good make as it's stressed much more with UF heating.
I've had it down for nearly 4 years and only had one issue where a board partially de-laminated. Not sure I could put it down to heating it might just have been a dodgy board.
I fixed it by levering it up filling it glue and then building a temp structure, braced off the ceiling, to force it back down whilst the glue dried. I then pinned it with a nail gun and filled the nail holes with oak filler.

I was warned off using electric UF heating due to cost, I never really looked into it as I fancied the wet stuff anyway.

good luck

Should have updated this earlier but this has gone.

Apologies I forgot to update this and the other posting, sorry both have now gone.

realised you need a hub with a 10mm axle so another rear is required.
http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=94293

Isn't there a trick to use your front wheel to straighten a bent hanger and at the same time use the distance between both rims to check the straight'ness of the hanger?

What's up with loctite, you can still always still unscrew it with a spanner, it's not glue.

What about a bit of loctite?

2nd dibs on if Davog doesn't take the work tray.
PM'd
ta

Second dibs pls

in reply to @tommmmmmm
You can get stuff called "sticky stuff remover" from Dyas and the like , it works really well but with parcel tape you'll need the plastic top surface off leaving only the adhesive behind.
I find it's best if you squirt it on and let it soak for a bit and then using cloth or paper towels wipe it all off, I say wipe you need to scrub it off.

I reckon WD40, whilst smelly, would also work.

The big guns would be acetone but tread carefully with the painted surface so try a test patch.

Also I reckon you could buy hollow alu tubing from ebay and flatten it.

If the uprights are hollow you could probably crush them flat and drill a new?
Freshtripe sell stainless steel brackets in various sizes and shapes for fitting baskets and racks etc.
I don't see any reason not to lower it I always try to do this with my racks.

@bashthebox
Shit sorry did you already say all that in your OP.

@bashthebox
Def not a pro-tip but
My tap, much cheaper than yours at £250 quid, recently went wrong. The 1/4 turn valve was loose and the handle which covers the valve (via convoluted custom made part) would no longer stay fixed. I found out who made it and rang them and they simply sent me the new parts gratis! It might be tricky finding out who made it as opposed to who supplied it but worth a try I'd say.
good luck

I think I've read the Enigma in Sussex are doing frame courses with a well known frame builder who either runs or designed the course sorry don't know much more than that.
There's also http://www.downlandcycles.co.uk/frameBuilding.htm

what about running a VM linux distro. It doesn take long to setup then you can run anything you like without affecting your main machine.
I run PC but have a windows VM and a linux one for tinkering.

I cant remember what the free VM player/tools are for Mac are I think VMPlayer is available for Mac.

I've used SB's method with varying success. I also combined SB's method with moving the chainring round one position at a time and re-tested each time, laborious to say the least but I found one position that was OK. Without moving it around I wouln't have I don't think.

pm incoming.

I've just started riding SS and I want to experiment with different ratios.
I already have Shimano MX30 18T so thought it simpler to get more in the same flavour so one tool will work for all.

Ta

All sorted now!
Thanks to all.

I'm new to the SS world. Been lurking on here for a while but recently bought a Kona Paddywagon frame from forummer with stuck seatpost and BB.
I got it sorted quicker than I expected so have pushed it into service, using a flop/flop so I'm still experimenting/testing it out at present.
Today my first ride into work on it, a smidge under nine miles and I'm very pleased with the Kona and SS.
I still need to tweak the bars, brakes and luggage facilities.
I had an issue where my pannier flapped up into my spokes this morning but no harm done.
I've got it setup with a 48*18 on 700 * 23mm tyres but might want to drop down to 17 or even 16 at the back.
Freewheel is Shimano Mx30 I think. Are these OK?

Advice/comments more than welcome.
I'm currently running the tyres (23mm luganos) on 70 at the front and 80 at the back. Is that OK? I normally run 32mm M+'s about 55/65.

Ta