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No, but I've been using TRP HyRd discs - and the pad clearance is really tight, I get really tired of dialling out the rotor contact.
I was hoping I could build my first frame as simple as possible, and just check I actually like both riding it and the process of building it. The more new stuff I try, the harder I find it.I guess I could ask someone to build me a custom steel fork?
A totally different solution would be to get a standard-ish road fork and run 650b rims with 30mm tyres, assuming I can find nice ones. And assuming I can find a deep enough caliper (it'd need to be 19mm deeper, I think?).
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I'm not absolutely set on a carbon fork; in fact, I'm not 100% set on anything! Trouble is, I am an elite-level procrastinator! I've been "about" to build this frame for 2 years, and I keep on thinking of reasons that get in the way. The more the scope increases, the less likely it becomes.
So, in terms of the fork, as long as I am not building it (massive increase in scope) then that's good.The big issue I get to with a 45mm rake is that to keep trail at ~60mm, I have to have a ~73 head angle (instead of 71.5). To reduce the toe overlap, I have to shift the head tube forward, and I end up with a 70mm stem. I can't figure how to solve the problem!
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I'm not sure there is an ideal place to ask this question, but as I am designing/building a frame...
Does anyone have any suggestions as to who makes/where to get a rim brake carbon fork with clearance for 28mm rubber, 'guard eyes and a ~55mm rake? Does such a thing even exist?
I can find a Columbus Futura Caliper SL, but the rake is 50mm and, well, I was just hoping for more generous clearance!
I'm wanting to build an audax bike with deep calipers or centre-pulls, winter tyres and 'guards. I have a Genesis Croix de Fer that I like the feel of, but the disc brakes are a pain in the ar5e. I'm now realising that finding a disc brake fork with 55mm rake and plenty of clearance is no problem. -
Does anyone know what the "standard" (if it exists) pad-to-disc rotor clearance should be? Does this vary by manufacturer?
I have a pair of TRP HyRd, and the front disc clearance is chuff all; its a nightmare to set up, and won't tolerate switching wheels without the dreaded brake rub.
I've tried using a feeler gauge to measure; on a set of Juin R1, I can get in the 0.3mm leaf, but its snug. The 0.2mm leaf fits fine.
On the TRP HyRd, I can barely get in the 0.15mm, and even the 0.1 is snug.I have tried using alcohol to clean up the inside of the calipers...
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Hello mate
Sorry for delay, I have a small stack of 'rings, almost all are 130BCD from days when I could actually ride up hills on a 39T... They are all plain, silver, 8, 9 or 10 speed, no fancy ramps. Choice of:
TA 39T VGC
Shimano A 42T VGC (goes with a Shimano A 53T outer, I think Dura Ace
Shimano B 39T Good
Shimano 39T, older style, VGC (goes with a Shimano 52T outer) -
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Looks like an ebay seller in the US has some fixed nozzles for a J-28; I am thinking I will cut the nozzle off and tap the end to accept the replaceable tips, kinda like you suggest, @M_V
If I had realised how hard it would be to find all the required kit to get this torch running... Although these torches are really well thought of in framebuilding circles (so I am led to believe), the threads, connectors and nozzles are all US sizes and not available outside the US.
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Thanks, @M_V - if I could guarantee that the neck to torch body was correct, you're right, I could just tap a new thread onto the nozzle end and hey presto! So, I would need a neck with a female 9/16" 22tpi fitment. I'll have a look at that one you link to but I can't see a spec for the threads... And what I (seem to have?) learned over the last 4 weeks of searching is that there is no single standard for torch threads. They are even worse than bottom brackets!! ;-)
I don't suppose anyone has one of these handy and has already worked out the thread size?
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Hello
Can anyone help - I am after a Victor UN-J elbow to fit a J-28 brazing torch. The part number is Victor - 0325-0101.
I appreciate this is a very specific thing, but I am having real problems getting one in the UK. Neither Victor or ESAB (Victor dealers/owners in Europe) will supply one, and although there are a few US companies that have them, there seems to be a minimum spend tied into Brexit/VAT and I may be looking at £150 for a bit of bent copper tube!
Ever hopeful...
Cheers
Greg -
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Its a long shot - but I know you as gentlemen and ladies of immaculate taste, so perhaps one of you does indeed have a 55 or 56cm Merlin titanium road frame?
I'm not looking for one with carbon tubes, nor do I want a cyrene engraved one. Not that they aren't lovely things, but I'm after something more classic/traditional.Living in hope!
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Seat tube 580mm C2C, top tube 580mm C2C, head tube 175mm. Original chrome, but new paint and decals (in its original colours). It hasn’t been ridden since I rebuilt it, which is hard to admit. I kept waiting for a magical, sunny day, which in Calderdale happens about once per year…
The groupset is pretty much all Shimano 600 – 6203 & 6208, including rear mech, front mech, shifters (which are 6208 6-speed indexed), brake calipers and levers, including brand new hoods, headset, seatpin. The chainset is Dura Ace 7400 in 175mm flavour, because getting a Shimano 600 crank in 175mm was impossible (unless someone can tell me otherwise?) Oh, and the BB is a cartridge one. Brand new cables throughout, new chain. New Turbo saddle, Cinelli Crit bars – 65-40, Cinelli XA stem. Mavic Open 4CD rims with very little wear on Shimano 6207 hubs, 6 speed uniglide cassette rear. Clement Strada LLG 28mm tyres, which fit fine, but to my eye are slightly too fat for the slim tubes. 25mm would have been a better choice. Still, there is plenty of clearance.
The bike came to me a few years ago, and I really wanted one of these gunmetal Perthus bikes. I knew it was a touch on the large side, but I got it anyway. I spent ages getting the groupset together, rebuilding the wheels and repainting the frame. H Lloyd helped me get the decals just right.
However, I had a bike fit, and had to stop telling myself that 58cm bikes fit me; they don’t. So then I carefully hung it up. I am not quite sure what I expected to happen – clearly, I am no longer growing (in fact, shrinking somewhat).
And now I have found something to replace it with (that’s the right size!) so I need the funds and the space.
Frame, fork £250 or (ideally) £280 including 26.4mm seatpost and headset
Groupset (including wheels) £300? Its hard to price, but I ended up getting it all piece by piece so its pristine. The brake levers are, as you know, very hard to get.
Whole bike £600 including saddle, bars, stem, and all the little stuff like cables.
I live in Hebden Bridge, and although I will post, I am going to want to wrap this within an inch of its life; collection is much easier/less stress. But as with most of my sh!t, I want it to go to someone who really wants it. Guess we all do when you put heart and soul into a project ride.I know that’s strong money, but I’ve seen a good few of these in pretty shabby condition going for that. I hate to think how much time and effort I put into getting this right!! I bloody hope someone puts it to good use! 😊
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Rotor Q-rings are 53T and 39T
The anodising is just starting to wear off the chainring teeth, but otherwise they are in very good condition. £65 posted
Easton Attack TT bar, in good condition, a little lacquer is coming off around the stem clamp. The stem is for the smaller 26mm clamp, not 31.6mm. Definitely more aero!
Pads replaced with 10mm self-adhesive foam, because the Easton pads were rubbish. The grips on the base bar are covered in skateboard grip tape, which I found works pretty well. I also zip-tied a piece of tube between the extensions for mounting a Garmin, but it can easily be removed. £75 posted
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Wall art of the highest order, Mr Hobbs. D'you mind me asking, what was best about the TBA course, and what could you have done without?
I'm guessing that the most valuable element to most folks is the brazing time , and if/when serial framebuilding addicts like Brommers go back, they've already done the design, tube selection, tube cutting, filing and mitring at home, and are "just" going for a fully kitted workshop and advice from a brazing guru?
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Hiya Logiebear - yep, i found out info and santa is also putting some quids in the pot, so as soon as we all get back to normal, i’ll be going to ellis-briggs for a week.
There’s a bunch of info on the website, and i’ve exchanged a few Emails with Paul too.
For me, i’m really wanting to get as much torch time as possible.
Those BR451, please!