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@Hefty I knew you'd check me on that.
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Strangely I wonder if the person complaining about the "ride faster" comment could be referring to me, but the events are very different...
I was going along from London Bridge to Bricklayers Arms, (that left turn at Borough, followed by the long stretch without any lights after the crossing) and halfway down there a group of cyclists all come out from a minor road on my right hand side, onto the main road.
They look right, then left, and maybe four or so come to join the road which was (apart from me) clear of traffic (effectively turning right from the minor road). I was in primary and forced into what could effectively be a secondary position, because as I am cycling at a fairly fast pace, I see the group of cyclists from the junction coming into the lane, and needed to not cycle into whoever would cut me up. As I have right of way, it became a bit difficult.
I had to slow quite abruptly because I see a number of other cyclists coming down on me, but at this very point one of them neither slows to come behind me, nor accelerates to be in front. I am left with another rider converging on me, and with only the choice to cycle faster to avoid a potential collision, or slam on my brakes, to the same effect.
Considering an alternative perspective like for @BobbyBriggs I wonder how else it could have worked. That one of the four (it could have been three, it could have been five, it was days ago now) followed the pack but continued to cycle into my path, and at a much slower pace - they were going to cycle into me if I couldn't pass on the inside. They should have entered the road behind me, or at worse beside me like the others. However, their trajectory and speed meant they would cycle and be in front of me at a slower pace, or go into me. I had to swerve and undertake, or slow to nearly a stop, to reposition behind them, then overtake properly.
From my perspective there were four or so cyclists who as a group considered the road clear to enter, but only three were going at a pace and joining in effectively the primary position. In an ideal world they should not have entered the major road until I had passed, but they instead surrounded me as I was merry on my way.
At the point of the one cyclist forcing me to maneuver sharply, and twice making turning motions practically into me, I said quite frustrated, "if you're going to do that, you should at least go a bit faster", where, if they had been a little faster, there was room for them to be in front of me.
I'm sure I was in every way in the wrong for having right of way, and being angry that a cyclist slowly cycled into my side, but it was frustrating enough to remark they should be going faster if they wanted to cut me up like that - at that pace, had I not looked, we would have both gone down.
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Must replace a set of forks with half a quill stem seized inside.
Going on a 58cm 90's Koga Miyata so needs to be 1" steerer please. I am replacing the headset depending on what's available, so open to both threaded and threadless. Bike will be running a normal 700c with rx100 brake, so nothing too long please.
Threaded, 160mm+ please
or
Threadless, 200mm ish pleaseIdeally I would like a carbon fork, depending on cost.
Thanks.
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'Minor' problem with the road bike, the stem has seized in the forks. It isn't going to come out, so it has been cut and the whole fork removed with stem part still in tube. (Yes, I could try to cut out the seized inner, I will, but I think I should plan for the worst.)
So now I need new forks.
The headset is also 20 years old and there is corrosion on a few of the ball bearings.
It is a 90's Koga Miyata, 58cm frame. The fork steerer measures about 160mm.
Unless there is someone on the forum with a nice, low cost, 1" threaded carbon fork with 160mm steerer, I must give in a convert to threadless.
I don't want to add risers, I want to keep the stem as low as it ever was, roughly what length of steerer should I expect to need on a threadless fork? 170? 180?
I understand the ideal is to cut down to size, but I was hoping for a helpful calculation, so if I buy an already cut fork, it isn't too short.
Thanks.
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Early chrimbo present is set up already. Although a lot of people prefer the more expensive/better models, the Elite Crono fluid was the best I could afford. Also got the training pack from Cycleops with mat, tyre, sweatcatcher, etc as it was cheaper than buying the parts separately (but only just).
Funny thing, the 'training tyre' from Cycleops is actually a blacked out Kenda Kriterium. The K1018 code gave it away. So it's not actually a turbo-specific tyre as people are recommended, it's just a mid-quality slick.
Provided quick-release skewer is naff, going to look in the basement for a spare Shimano one or something.
Put the track bike on it for two 30 minute sessions, nearly killed myself by the end of the second. Put the road bike on it for varying intensity.
Anyone else using these things?
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As if by magic yesterday (while I was stationary, I bring the pedal up to the 2-o'clock) there's a thunk and the chain jammed itself tight between the chainring and frame. I have no idea how it happened.
Looking at @TheArchitect's thread, I had no idea about these chain catchers.
Could someone give me the benefit of the doubt and offer advice if they really do work that well, and if they will work at all with a compact chainset. The Cannondale is running a bb30 FSA Gossamer 50/34.
Has there been a good in-depth discussion here that I should know about?
Thanks