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Ducati

((… fast forward to now, and dad’s current lack of speedo))

Yea pretty much every 125 is using either the Suzuki GN or the Honda CG derived engine. I’ve seen a few Sinnis need entire top ends in the hands of 17 years olds at my mechanics.

Of course, did those riders keep oil topped up and occasionally ride below the red line? We’ll never know.

The main benefit of brands like Sinnis is you can do like I did and buy a ‘cheap’ 90’s Suzuki and almost every single pattern piece to rebuild it comes out at £5.99 + postage.

China 125’s are best for people who are young and need ‘cheap’ finance. But you’ll pay the value of the bike twice over in repairs and parts as it dismantles itself.

Occasionally you get a good one but generally they’re a disposable vehicle.

If you can stick to the Japanese brands (Honda, Suzuki etc) you’re in for better quality control and lifespan.

A 90’s 125 well-looked-after will keep going another few years (like my unkillable ‘93 GN125) whereas a 5 year old modern Lexmoto isn’t even good for spares.

EDIT: NOW SOLD (got £70 locally).

Bear in mind I’m in Devizes, and a little reluctant to post as I don’t want to have it arrive damaged and you kinda need to be shown how these work. I could post at cost but it’s a lump.

I put it on fbm at £75 since that’s the lowest they’re selling on ebay.

Luigi’s was mid/late June earliest appointment! Fowlers booked it in for early May, and nowhere more local is competent/willing.

Dad’s Ducati Caff racer had the battery go flat over winter. Stupidly he unplugged the battery to put on a charger. It had a tracker fitted last year.

Now, there’s all bike but no speedo.

Local bike shop plugged in the diagnostics and got:

“can line to abs” “mute node”

I’m really hoping the disconnecting hasn’t fried something in the ECU as trackers have been known to do sometimes.

Earliest (willing) mechanic appointment is a month away. We’re going to have a poke around next week. I’m hoping it’s just a loose connector leading up to the ECU.
Going to be a jo

SOLD

Works fine. Just needs a clean up.

Yup, sell the domestic as got an industrial one now. Domestic needs a wipe over and lube probably. Will collect it from the parents’ house later today. It’s a Frister 4-thread.

SOLD

Looks like the zig zag and the boxed 201k are both spoken for. Gonna try dig out the domestic overlocker and the other bits.

SOLD all the things

That 201k above is sold pending. I still actually have my other couple 201k’s, the OG cast iron hand crank (can be fitted with a motor), and my later brown colour 201k with a modern motor.

Singer 438, with a box load of cams ((EDIT: sold))

Use Fowlers for the part numbers then elsewhere for the item. If you can get the measurements then a local bearing shop could help.

The hand-crank is in Swindon, will have it here by next week after next journey to the parents’ house, but this motorised one is here and ready to play. Pop me a message.

Nope. Sat here in Devizes with me.

Consider it an excuse to replace the bearings as they may be a little notchy after years of service.

Learning tyre limit is something people dedicate a lot of time to.

Gotta say learning what a front tyre skid feels like and then learning to consistently control it has to be one of the most difficult parts of dirt riding. You just never want to lose traction when braking, and on the green lanes it’s a constant.

I still haven’t done a track day, but I have felt the rear step out enough times on the road to keep me honest. Massive respect for people who can control that and exploit it.

I nearly went flying when walking along and slipping on a greasy puddle near a mechanics yard today. Sometimes we just get caught out no matter.

Even the old XJ600 would slap at low speeds on cruise and decel. Could never work out why, but you had to keep two hands on the bars at all times.

Wouldn’t recommend.

The other issue is you’ll never know the joy of wringing the neck of a little engine.

There’s one or two on this thread that will suggest that you earn your wings before buying your first ‘beast’ bike.

Anything 300cc or above will feel good and nippy, you don’t need 80-100hp on day one, I’d stick about 50hp until you can do things without thinking.

Depends what bike you learn on as well. If you learn on a Bandit you’ll love straight 4’s and a school bike will be barely hitting the required 60hp for full license.

Ah sure. The nail varnish remover from £land is acetone and water.

Poundland remover is 99% pure!

oof, thoughts & prayers.

send pics

Some time ago I made a fairing repair using Poundland nail varnish remover. It takes a long time for the acetone to chemically melt the plastics, but I would recommend this method. It can turn the plastics white (not an issue if hidden from view), and it is chemically re-bonding the pieces together. If you can be bothered, do that.

You can also put shavings of the similar plastic into a bottle of acetone to make a repair goo that is chemically similar and should give you a good repair.

Great response to the F9 body armour video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOJxubCS0wM

Madness.