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I agree with slothy, it does indeed look like a square taper crankset, and that would most likely make it a 68 mm bsa shell.
The Tiagra 4700 and 105 5800 cranks will both fit a 68mm bsa shell with the right bb cups. The rear spacing of that frame is probably a standard 130mm, so unless Trek fucked something up badly, those cranks will definitly fit. I've got a 4700 crank in a 68mm bsa shell + 130mm rear spaced triangle myself.
Unless the nostalgia is the main reason for this project (and that would be totally legit), you should consider what other and better frames you could get for the cost of the Trek frame + respray. As far as i know the 1.2 was at the bottom of the line up, and a pretty generic alu frame.
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I see, thank you. It's a pretty nice ride, really looking forward to testing it on the trail on saturday. The brakes are really powerful and surprisingly easy to modulate, but I guess that may all change if things get too wet.
I think I could use a little setback on the seatpost, but it takes an obscure 29,6mm post, and this inline BBB is the only one I've come across so far. This is how it looks:
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Thanks.
I can't find any info on the tubes of the frame, does anyone know if it's anything special? The top and down tubes are "flattened" in opposite directions at each end, kinda like Columbus Max, if that makes sense. I think it's a 1997 model, and i can't figure out how close to the top or bottom in the line up it was.Also, my chain breaker broke while I was removing a couple of links, so I havent been able to finish this yet despite having all the parts home. Today the new Park Tool CT 3.2 chain breaker arrived, and it seems a lot sturdier than the old tool (which lasted three years, so i'm not complaining), so will probably be able to take it for spin in the weekend.
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Ayy, time for some fun in the woods! Building this GT Karakoram for riding our local trail with a couple of colleagues. I've never riden a proper mtb before, and even though this havent got any suspension, it will hopefully give me an idea if fat rubber and dirt is something i will enjoy, before i decide wether to shell out on a modern mtb.
I've always had a crush on the GT triple triangle, so I was very excited about getting my hands on this. Ordered some blue goodies to attach to, but the 68mm bottom bracket appears to be a 73mm even if it says 68 on both package and unit itself. The nds cup wont screw all the way in, and its not the shell, I have fitted an other one without any issues. Threading on the cup is not bad either, and it seems it just wont fit on the other part of the unit. Anyway, will have to get a replacement next week.
Wheels are home build 36h Sun Ringle Rhyno lite rims on Deore hubs, and drivetrain will be a 1x9 with a narrow wide 34t up front and an Alivio shadow RD with a 12-36 cassette in the back. V-brake front and back, and Continental tires.
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Nice project! Love the funky colors, and i think the bar tape will look great.
That 105 group is solid, I rode one on my first road bike for two years - which was also an MBK actually, "Chrono" i think it was called in red/blue Columbus Thron tubing with a chrome fork. Over time the STI's original grease may dry out and clock up the shifting mechanism, but spraying in some WD-40 or similar will keep it going again for a year or so before a new treatment is needed, at least that was my experience.
Good luck with the stem and bars, looking forward to seeing the final result.
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Nice work, I love seeing others idea of the perfect rack!
I'm sure you know what you're doing, but that platform rack looks very large for a mounting point on the canti bosses. Would it nok make it more secure by pointing the stays to the low rider position on the fork blades? Whats the reason for choosing the canti bosses? -
Good luck, you wont regret this. I have the Macho Man myself and it's the best bike I've ever owned.
If you you're planning on running a drivetrain with a conventional bottom pull front derailer, you will need the pulley on back of the seat tube to make it work with the cable routing. I think Problem Solvers make one.
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I have the Zipp Service Course 70 Ergo (not the SL, but I think the shape is the same) on my Macho Man, and I love them. Wrapped them in 3mm fizik tape, and they are the most comfy bars I've ever ridden. Once you get used to the ergo/flat top you wont be going back - I really miss the flat tops on my other bike.
I took some photos of the bar it self before assembling the bike, you can see them here if you want: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13069607/
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@The_Dane
Sorry for the late reply, didn't see your post. My local Trek dealer were able to order the frameset (f+f, including headset and seatpost bolt) from the stock in The Netherlands i think, and had it within a week. The black frames are the disc brake version, the green one only come with canti studs as far as I know. It's not listed on Treks website, I just found out about it from a post on an other forum.Pic is the Macho Man with a pair of Conti AT Ride 42c (39mm actual) tires. They are the first knobbies I've ridden in quite a while, so they were great fun on the forest roads yesterday.
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Finished bike, great ride. I've wanted to do a build like this ever since I started looking at bikes on the internet years ago, and this has turned out almost perfect. Glad I went with the silver fenders, but the bar tape is a bit too much. It's some cheap Deda tape, and doesn't feel nearly as nice as the fizik on my road bike (what did I expect?), so will probably replace it soon, along with the not so comfy FSA Vero bar. After being used to a flat aero/ergonomic top from the Zipp bars, these feel like gripping a pencil.
Other than that, I really like it. -
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Thought I would update this thread with my new primarily commuter but hopefully also tourer project.
Built the wheels this weekend, and picked up the frame at the lbs today. Will be getting parts from bike24 in a few days.Plan is to build with some of the same parts as my Macho Man, since they work so well, but then with a lower gearing achieved with a Deore double crank.
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Thanks, I'm very happy with the result.
Bought a cx70 top pull front derailleur from CRC that arrived today. I think it had been sitting on a shelf for some time as it was quite dirty. Didn't affect performance though, it shifts very well with the 4700 STIs, and was no more of a hassle to setup than the 4700 front derailleur.
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Okay good to know that it will work if I decide to try it.
Finished the build, and took it for a spin around the block. Brakes are insanely powerful almost to the point were it's too much, will definitely have to get used to them. Modulation is fine though, so it's not a problem.
I like the way it turned out visually with the black/white and the metallic blue. Just need to adjust the saddle a bit, and the maybe tilt the bars up a little.
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Thanks. I did consider the cx70 front der, but I was not sure it would work with the new cable pull of the 4700 group, and I didn't want to take any chances. It is a cleaner solution and I would much prefer it if it works, especially now that I'm waiting for the cable pulley instead...
Which shifters are yours connected to? And how many teeth are on your chainrings?
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Progress so far.
Really really nice metallic blue color. I'm keeping everything else black or white (mostly black), and so far I think it's working very well.
First time ever I've installed a hollowtech 2 bb and cranks. The bb was smooth sailing, but apparently i forgot to buy a special Shimano tool for the plastic pre load nut for the non drive side crank arm. Luckily my tire lever fitted right in, so i used that instead.
Since it's my first time, I'm a bit unsure if I've over tightened the pre load nut. It feels like the cranks are moving freely, but they don't keep spinning very much if I throw them around, guess I'll have to wait and see.
Other bummer is that the shop forgot to add the cable pulley for use with bottom pull front derailer with top tube cable routing, so it wont be finished the next couple of days. I hope they'll send one quickly.
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Okay, so it's "just" hard manual work searching around local clasifieds and dealing with private persons. I don't know what I was expecting but it looks like you're pretty good at it.
Do you often find a bike or frame in an other country that you really want, but the person selling will only accept cash and pick up in person? I've been looking for a nice 90's steel frame myself on the german ebay kleinanzeige and dutch maarktplats, but I find that people rarely are willing to deal with a foreigner in an other country (did get lucky with a nice mixte from germany last year, though).