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The green frameset I got was actually the current version of the 520 at that time, so nothing NOS about it. It's just that the black disc brake version was the only one advertised in Europe i think, so I only knew the green canti version existed from some US forum.

I've considered replacing the frameset+brakes+wheels for a similar setup but with disc brakes, but even if I managed to sell it, the total would still be an expense my bike budget wont allow at the moment.
But yeah now that you ask, I'm tempted again, haha...

Only a little. We changed the seat, and the bars have changed twice i think, but nothing major, just a little more rise and backsweep. We added a Racktime rear rack as well, and bought a Racktime basket - really nice integration between those two, the basket is easy to add/remove and can be locked to the rack. My gf loves it.

Thanks @essdi.

The All City has Tiagra 4700 STI levers with Tektro rx-5 mini v brakes and Kool Stop salmon pads. I like the combination very much - plenty of pad clearance against braking surface (18mm internal diameter DT swiss r460 rim), and good power and modulation. Placement of the studs can vary between frames, but here the brakes will clear a studded 40mm continental cx tire.

The Trek 520 started out with the same STI/brake combo as above, but it was tight with 38mm Paselas and fenders, so after a year I switched to cantis, which i hated, and then to a pair of Shimano mini v's. I believe they are called br-r353, they look exactly like them at least. Tire/fender clearance is a bit better, as the arms are a little longer, and there is still enough pad clearance against brake surface too. I think the power is even better than the Tektros, and I would probably get these again over the Tektros if I had to.

The cantis I had were the Tektro cr710, and they were an absolute pain to install and adjust. I have installed lots of old cantis on other bikes, but these were just horrible. I remember the power as about as good as the Tektro mini v's, and they obviously had a lot more tire clearance. I found that they would start to squeal a lot more than the mini v's, which required furhter adjustments - which was the reason i eventually replaced them

Over all the mini v's are extrememly easy to deal with, while the canti's require constant adjustments for optimal performance. Thats my experience at least, but I know some people love cantis. Hope that helped.

Hi, thanks, sorry I didnt see you comment. It's a 60 cm frame.

Did you use the triangle brakcet supplied with the pizza rack, or did you mount it dirrectly on to the fork? Mine has threaded eyes and so does my fork, so I had to use the brackets, but would love to hear/see if can be mounted directly, as it would move the weight a little back, which would be nice.

Bought this one last sunday for ~£500:

It's a 1994 Trek T100 Double Track, and it's in near perfect condition. The previous owner was a lovely elderly lady, who had been riding it with her husband all over Europe (Mont Ventoux and several other cols). It's been stored indoors for the past ten years, so it's a little dusty, but theres no visible rust and almost no damages to the paint.

The Cambium and the tires are my additions to make it rideable, but other than that everything works flawlessly. I do have a few upgrades planned for it, and they should be on their way in the mail.

My gf and I took it for a spin yesterday, and its great fun, but we really need to practise starting and stopping - tips and tricks are welcome! It's easy to handle once moving, but a little scary in the trafic with the large turning radius and extra length.

Edit: Attached the image instead. Does linking to Google Photos not work?

Does anyone know anything about Burley as a tandem manufacturer? I'm looking at a "Duet" model with Suntour XCE drivetrain, a drum brake and possibly 27'' wheels (not sure, could be 700c). It looks well taken care of, and the price seems fair.
Should I avoid it like the plague, or could it be a good buy?

I recently replaced the cantilever brakes on my Trek 520 with a pair of Shimano BR-R353 mini-v brakes, and they have been really good so far in combination with tiagra 4700 STIs. I find them more powerful than Tektros rx5 and they offer good modulation too imo, and of course very easy to set up compared to cantis.

They have been my go to shop for bike parts for several years now along with Rose Bikes.

Their prices are great, but what I actually like the most, is the user experience when browsing their web shop. I find their filtering and sorting very good and the site very responsive and easy to navigate in general.

The prices at Rose are just as good - often better, and they ship a lot faster too, but in contrary to Bike24, their website is absolute shit.

Yeah my bad, I replied to your post on page 2, didnt realize that was 9 days ago. Im sure the Pacentis will be great, have heard nothing but good things about them.

Dont know about mud, but for road riding with some gravel in between, I find the Panaracer Paselas perfect.
You can get the newish DT Swiss R500 db for €33 a piece from bike24. Its a 22m internal width disc brake rim. I have their r460 on my road bike in a 32h config, and its been good so far, havent needed any truing since I build them a year ago. The wheelset came in at around ~1900g on 105 hubs.

What would prevent 650b compatiblity of a frame designed for 700c, like the Trek mentioned above? 650b is just a smaller diameter wheel, no?

edit: talking about a frame with disc brakes

I bought my macho man from Just Pedal in the Netherlands two years ago, and it looks like he's still stocking a lot of the Surly and AC models. Excellent service, fast shipping and the best price I could find at that time. A little slow with email replies, but other than that a top guy.

https://www.justpedal.nl

Bought a pizza rack for my Trek 520 yesterday, and the fit seems ot be okay with the "fitting" triangles mounted on the inside of the rack legs. I would like to move it back a little, but that would only be possible if I remove the triangles and fit it directly through the mounts that are welded onto the rack legs.

The problem is, that the mounts on the rack are threaded, and so are the eyelets on my fork, so I can't see how that would work (?). Would it be safe to drill out the threading on the rack and get some longer bolts for the mounting?

A possitve side effect of this would be a lot cleaner and nicer install like on the Awols that are supplied with the OEM rack - those triangles aren't exactly pretty.

Can anyone recommend a way to ship a tandem from the UK to Denmark?
I've requested quotes from shiply.com, but am not getting any replies (might be 'cause sunday?), and bikeflights.com returns an error message, saying FedEx is not responding.

Got a few upgrades in the mail a few days ago.

PRO LT compact ergo bars, delicious 3mm fizik tape, Tektro cr710 canti brakes with two pair of salmons on the side.
The brakes were a massive pita to set up, and I dont even know why, I'm usually good with cantis. The barrel adjuster quick release is nice though, and the modulation is better than with the mini v's, and almost as powerful.
I'm not sure about the bars yet. To get a horizontal ramp transition to the hoods you need to tilt the bars, so that the flat ergo section on the tops are a bit too much at an angle. They are still a great improvement over the FSA Veros.

Fitted it all last night, and we're going on a short weekend tour, so will post pictures of final result later.

1. AC Macho Man in road mode
   
2. Trek 520 commuter
   
3. GT Karakoram rigid mtb
   +
   
4. GFs Panasonic mixte commuter
   
   

Next one will probably be a nice 90's steel frame build, or if I'm lucky a tandem.

Yeah the disc frameset paint job is actually pretty fucking good. The Cdf 725 frameset is £500 aswell, I really don't see what could make the equilibrium disc that more expensive.

Can anyone tell me why the new Genesis Equilibrium Disc frameset is £850 while the rim brake Equilibrium frameset is "only" £500? They are both made from 725 tubes and come with a carbon fork, what could cause a significant price difference like that?

Spoke wrench, €8 and dish stick, €31 are the essentials imo, but a nipple driver, €20 is very handy too. Prices in euros are Park Tool stuff from bike24. You can turn a frame upside down and strap a ruler acros the fork legs and stays and use it as a truing stand if you don't want to invest in a dedicated one - they are a little expensive. I got a Park Tool tension meter for my birthday and its nice for getting the tension even, but i'd say you could build without one.

I dont know how the tool costs compare to the labour prices where you live, but give a man a fish or a fishing rod etc etc if that makes sense.

This.

And I'll add that instead of paying someone to build, you could take your diy project to the next level, and use the money for the necessary tools and Roger Mussons book/pdf, and learn to build them yourself. I did that a year ago, and though it was a little harder than I imagined, it was far from impossible, and you'll be able to build and true your own wheels in the future. I've gone from having no clue to a stable of three bikes with home build wheels (one pair with the excellent r460 rims mentioned above) in a year with that book, it's highly recommendable.

Canyon website says 12x100mm ta for front wheel, cant find anything on the rear wheel.

You can't just replace the QR with a through axle. Some disc brake wheels/hubs (most?) will have removable end caps that allow you to fit a various axle types. Looking at bike24, it seems the Ksyriums come in different axle configurations, so they might not have said removable end caps.

Thanks. It's the Zipp Service Course 70 Ergo. I like them a lot, the flat tops are nice and extend all the way to the bend, which gives a nice hand position just behind the hoods. More pictures showing the shape here, if you're interested: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13069607/

My Macho Man with knobbies. Have since gone back to the 32c Gravelking + sks longboard fenders setup. Love it.

Building your own bike is a very rewarding process, and you get to know every part of it in a whole other way than buying a finished product. It may sound stupid but I've come to trust myself more with building/repairing my bikes than my local shops. If I've done it myself, I know for sure it's done properly, and if something fucks up anyway, I've only got myself to blame, and I will likely be learning from the mistake.

If you're not allready familiar with them, parktool.com and sheldonbrown.com are some great sources for figuring bike stuff out.