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This is similar to my line of thinking. The main difference between our frames is that mine doesnt require removal of back wheel to compact down. Will stick on folding pedals too
The Montague is not too heavy at 13kg with the cheap stock components and hybrid wheels. If the experiment works out I should eventually be able to shave a bit of that off with lighter wheels and groupset.
Keep a bag in my backpack and if anyone says anything turn it into a piece of luggage.
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I commute into London by train, and hate the Jubilee line, so needed a bike to get me from London Bridge to work. I was looking for a decent used Brompton for ages, but the size of the wheels just didn't sit right with me.
So I have bought a folding 700c bike that doesn't split on the frame. It should let me get on the train and give me a ride I can enjoy, if I modify it.
So over the next few weeks I will be documenting my journey to transform the components on this thing to lighter and better ones. Any advice or suggestions welcome.


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Just agreed to buy one used. £400. Save £224 compared to bike scheme. Get to own it outright so no uncertainty over future law changes or whatever. It is about 20 years old but in good condition and should be fine.
I was apprehensive about the whole rent the bike on Cyclescheme to be fair. I like hacking and upgrading my bikes and felt a bit awkward about doing it on one I technically don't own yet.
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Going to be using the bike to work scheme but I need a folder because the train won't allow anything else during peak times.
Is Brompton really the only practical folding bike that can go under my desk at work without arsing about with the awkward centre folding or are there others you'd recommend? I rarely buy into hype/style over substance, and am trying to avoid that. But in this case Brompton seems to be the only design that would be practical.
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After building a whole kitchen and hanging cabinets I avoid the harder plugs. I use long strong steel screws and enough rawl plugs to match the depth of the screw. And I make sure to clear the plaster on top of the brick. Whole rawl plug needs to be in the brick and hole needs to match rawl plug size. If it spins in the hole it isn't secure. Some people put slivers of wood in the hole around the rawl plug in these cases to stop it spinning.
For really heavy things I have used resin bolts which are good fun. You drill a hole as per instructions, fill with polymer resin and push your threaded rod into the hole. Wait until it cures and then bolt whatever you need to into it. Solid.
Look up frame fixings and YouTube from actual builders is a godsend.
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I created this thread. No longer a doctor. Now three years into a full time profession as a C# .NET developer.
Software engineering in the City is 100 times less stressful than being a doctor, more creative, more intellectually challenging (in the engineering/logical reasoning sense) oddly.
I like it, the plan is to keep this up for a few more years then go freelance and start frame building half the week. I have a pipe dream to build a stiff classic full size frame using Reynolds tubing, which folds in some clever way. I have hundreds of CAD designs I have done over the years. Want to make it a reality.
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My Delonghi Autentica bean to cup recently developed a warning light and empty water light error, can't get it working.
So I swapped back to my Delonghi Icona with modified portafilter (pressure basket removed and swapped to simple sieve type filter basket) and the coffee quality has stepped up significantly. Had forgotten what good coffee tasted like!
Carbon fibre track wheels, tri spoke, and aerodynamic fairing