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I picked up a old 653 TT bike last summer with the intention of doing some TTs last season, however that plan never really took off as the seatpost and stem were both very seized (The previous owner had the bike made to measure in the early 90s and I'm pretty sure the seatpost and stem haven't been moved since then) and I did all my TTing on my road bike instead.
It came built up with 90s campag kit and box section tubular wheels. The paint is quite knackered so I decided to go for a practical build with modern components rather than restoring it (Though a respray and restoration could still be on the cards if I get a modern TT frame)
The stem and seatpost were firmly stuck. I tried a variety of techniques (WD40, freezing, ammonia etc.) but had no luck, so had to go down the caustic soda route. So the stem and seatpost were cut off


Mixing caustic soda for the stem and seatpost:

What was left of the nice Campag aero seatpost:

Stem and seatpost removed. Annoyingly, the heat of the reaction caused some of the paint to bubble off, but I think this bike will be getting a respray eventually so I just sprayed a bit of primer over the affected areas to keep the rust out.

This is what it looks like now, with a 105 groupset, Profile Design cockpit, Cinelli Frog stem and some temporary mismatching winter wheels

Plan for the future:
- Thinking of picking up a 50-60mm carbon wheelset which I can use on both this bike and my road bikes.
- Get a rear wheel with a disc cover
- Switch the seatpost for a black one
- Respray. Very tempted to keep the fluro yellow or go with another fluro colour.
- Thinking of picking up a 50-60mm carbon wheelset which I can use on both this bike and my road bikes.
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I've developed right knee pain since switching bikes (technically my summer bike). I think it's my ITB and it became so painful during my ride this morning that I had to turn back 20 mins in. I don't really understand where it has all come from since both my road bikes have the same pedal setup and I've been wearing the same pair of shoes (so I presume cleat positioning isn't the issue?). Also, I've not been over-training and I don't have any flexibility issues that I'm aware of. It seems like the bike switch has precipitated the issue so perhaps I need to play around with the saddle height and setback on the summer bike?
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I'm after some bits to build up a cheap TT bike to have a more serious go this season and if anyone had any of the following bits for sale that would be great:
Rear mech (Shimano)
Front mech (braze on)
53/39 175mm crankset (Preferably hollowtech)
Brakes (recessed fitting)
TT Bar end brake levers
Chain and cassette (something like a 11-25?)Also, if anyone has any bars (base bars and aero extensions) and some 10 speed bar end shifters that would be ideal, although I do have some old ones that might be serviceable in friction shifting mode.
Thanks!
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I picked up a Pompino recently and it has a Tektro CR520 on the front. The braking power is awful and I can pretty much ride the bike with the front brake on. I've tried messing with the pad position and increasing the spring tension and it's still pretty bad. I'm a roadie so am not very competent with cantis - anyone got any ideas? I've attached a few photos of the brake normally and when engaged:


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Hey guys,
Just bought @harv4130's Pompino. It's a real mix of parts but I've been having a lot of fun riding it around the local trails. Having never owned a bike with cantilevers before, I was wondering if I could get some advice regarding the front brake cable routing. I want to put a shorter stem on and lower the front end, since I'm a bit shorter than the previous owner, but it seems that the cable is already running pretty tight to get into the steerer mounted hanger - what's the best way to set it up?


Are there any cheap chinese ISM Adamo copies? Or other saddles with big cut outs/no noses
I'm also looking at second hand Adamos and SMPs but just thought it was worth asking just in case.