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i have a thread where im putting ultegra 6800 on a 1982 Raleigh 531, one thing to consider is how stiff the frame is.. if its a noodle then using 9 gears and upwards can result in the bike changing gear for you when you get out the saddle which is what happened when i fitted ultegra 6600 to a 90s Claud Butler 531
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is it possible youve damaged a chain link?, check if one side of a link is starting to come off. is this fixed gear or geared bike? if geared it may be catching in your mechs or it could be as simple as it not sitting on a jockey wheel right?. Id also check that your chainring bots are tight, that your chainring/s are straight. The way you describe backwards pedalling it sounds like a buggered freewheel.
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http://www.gipiemme.biz/#!vintage-wheels/cz7p >bike wheels > vintage wheels
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Been busy with decals, i had these raleigh ones made up in a metallic gloss grey but im not sure if i want the seat tube ones on the frame or not. still waiting for the reynolds decal in the post. If also fitted a Tange Seiki technoglide headset. Deda bars and seatpost are at my local parcelforce hub...
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W.I.P
I had an old Raleigh frame laying around which was looking a bit worse for wear. I did like the pearl white paint but it had yellowed unevenly and had been touched up badly in so many places - there was a fair amount of surface rust. I did consider using it as a beater bike but as the frame was free of any dents i decided it may be nice to repaint it. A friend has sold me some Ultegra 6800 parts in good condition so im hoping i can turn this bike into something with a modern twist.Im not bad with a spray can but i dont have any proper spraying equipment so i inquired into the costs involved and found a pro respray in pearl white was going to be fairly costly and i was convinced into powder coating it instead.
I do have the original forks but i had a pair of straight threadless ones that i thought would compliment the look and allow the fitment of ahead parts. I trialed the ultegra brifters on vintage drops and i didnt really like how it looked or felt.
Colour wise i toyed with a Pearl grey front end by spraying the original fork myself. I also had grey vinyls made up - since erased by the shot blasting. The eventual choice for the frame is pure white base but with a sparkle topcoat. Cost £90 in all.
after
Raleigh 531 by neil bah, on Flickr
Raleigh 531 by neil bah, on Flickr
Raleigh 531 by neil bah, on Flickr -
Ok im having a steel 531 frame powder coated as we speak. Due to the cost of having it re-done in pearl white i went for white basecoat with a glittery silver top coat. The forks are 1" ahead. I have an Ultegra 6800 groupset and cheapy 11 speed wheelset Shimano RS010 but im a bit stumped as to what colour bars/stem/seatpost to go for. Initially i was thinking grey finishing kit such as Deda newton bars/zero100 stem or some grey Pro PLT parts which are hard to find now. Im concerned it may just look like a cluster*&^% of different shades with the Ultegra parts being a very dark colour. Maybe black finishing kit would be better? Heres a before pic without the current wheels/cranks etc
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Has anyone purchased 24mm deep 700c carbon rims. Looked on the bay/ali express and a few of the chinese manufacturers sell what seems to be the same design -basalt brake track etc but i cant decide the best source. Im hoping i can build them up by swapping out 24mm alloy rims on a 20h/24h clincher wheelset i have allowing for any difference in erd with the nipple length. Would it be better to go for the tubular versions which are lighter and possibly safer?
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interesting, My complete setup today weighed 7.13kg - i know i could improve this but i weigh 86kg so it would be better for me to lose weight first. I was using quite chunky old spds (pd-a525) but i found that with the tension on max and using cleats for the pd-7410 its very difficult to unclip by accident.
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https://www.facebook.com/slave2thecyclist/media_set?set=a.1002685689784324.1073741904.100001287081883&type=3&pnref=story Try this link, if it doesnt work i'll try another method. Didnt see a boardman spec as such however i was running a disc of sorts...i dont think many realised but its one i made out of aircraft covering film over an open pro -so although pointless on a HC it actually wasnt a weight penalty like many assumed. Certainly lighter than my other wheel- Navigator pista. I was running supersonic inner tubes too but punctured on my way to the event.
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Cycle Club Sudbury HC today @ Semer in Suffolk. I managed 13th out of 78. Winner was Fabian Horrocks with a 43.9 and i got a 49.7. Cant claim fastest fixed rider as im pretty sure there was a chap from LFCC on a Dolan Seta but still waiting for the published results. Very short HC at just 500 yards. Great event with a decent crowd and plenty of cowbells and encouragement.

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my bike was stolen tonight, life can suck.. on the plus side it was my pub beater and a bit of a death trap..the brakes are rubbish, a pedal is seized to the driveside crank, the other has crap bearings. the right sti shifter is unreliable, the saddle is a cheap fake, the handlebars have crash damage, the headset undoes itself.. so with any luck the offender will find out the hard way.
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after discovering a small crack in my Dolan track champs chainstay(yes ive joined that club) i bought some oddball koga miyata frame on ebay cheapish which im sure has been on this forum in one guise or another, not a beauty but functional if you ignore the toe overlap. Took it for a shakedown at my local TT (maldon E21/10) saturday morning which was pretty damn cold riding out hence the leg warmers. The fog just started to clear in time but no doubt it put a few off and only 10 riders took part but i managed to put in the fastest time of the day - 2seconds off my PB on this course. 23.35. Only fixed rider.

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i had this issue on a freewheel and i found a narrower chain worked better than the width it was designed for. It most likely is wear even if there seems to be a good amount of tooth profile. if you imagine the pins/rollers on the new chain arent finding the dips between teeth because the wear isnt even on both your chainrings/sprockets and chain. Thing is these early freewheels didnt have very good teeth profiles for shifting whereas a shimano hg will work much better and is cheap. The draw back is the ratios tend to be 14t up on newer ones. My best vintage freewheel had the teeth reprofiled by hand file to include ramps and it shifts much more reliably.
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not including time on rollers/commutes and a couple of lost rides due to the iphone, now got garmin.