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go on.. as in you've got to use it , or ..

were you having the room replastered? and by any miracle did the wall dry off at all?

for the price this is a fuckin beast x3 power

I sit on the philistines step wearing a rolex rip-off with a japanese movement put together by a guy in sheffield using an old british brand.. suits me fine

bit of scribing, jigsaw, few screws - if they eat the whole thing. just the mention of ant powder really kicked things off last time

I was feeling bad about having worked in a house with one of those, oddly sited within a mile of two golf courses,,
so someone makes them..

A good six+ months after a router change I finally bothered to reconnect the internet radio... I've never had so much radio joy. . It's been there for four years and TV broke three weeks ago but now I ask , forget the TV, is £370 alright to spend on another radio - and use the big speakers

I still write out daily plans for jobs,, and I still get that feeling of 'this task is almost over' then realise there's a heap load more of the same to do... I briefly worked for a builder who'd take jobs on a couple of months in advance, forget about them then the first thing would be a meeting of 'how the fuck are we going to do this then'

The plan you had written out sounded great, there wasn't much point commenting especially when not 100% sure if it would make it easier for you, I hope I'm sure it'll suddenly become clear what can wait and what can't - keep it up mate

Yeah, only half of them are just plastic now

very impressive

Non of all that jazz and not 7k.. hmm ok, , it is really surprising what takes you from the display case - this I just thought was stunning, it stayed there, 7k and all the jazz

Any as long as you never touch a Philips screw apparently.. honestly I'd say a 10.8v or 12v with the chucks to get in awkward places will do the vast majority of stuff, if you want to do timber framing sure get an impact drive and if you want to get through 4" of concrete get a corded SDS, - if you go that way, go to a decent supplier and be the guy who wants to hold them (if you think it's Mikki mouse walk away).... But .. the "all rounder" is a combi drill and impact drive set at 18v

This one is solvent based and will fuck the brush you use

Fine to go with the zinsser approach, (bricks have gradings of mineral content = not a one size fits all) , the worry would be if you can rake out the mortar with a screwdriver i.e. it's ... failing.
Stabilising solution is kinda a product name

If things go a little silent on this it could be cos it looks like the mortar is failing.. the primer on that would be a stabilising solution

somehow I thought you'd said it was sending hot water to the radiators unexpectedly? Is that when hot tap was turned on?

On the fly and small bits can just be scratched off with the tip of a 18mm snap off blade or similar.. looks like Wilko still do a cheap paint stripper £6.75 500ml which will soften it before scratching off or use one of those toothbrush size wire brushes (I've not found a expensive paint stripper that massively out performs the cheap ones)

can you even buy block board any more?
It might do better on the sagg-ominter

Ok, I did a drawing, it's half done and shows nothing of the work involved. green - battening, red - ply, blue - ply / hinge support, black - hinge. pencil - shelves hanging pole... honestly I'd concentrate on the inside stuff first, do it well and make it work for you (shelves maybe 22x22 batten covered top and bottom in 5.5mm ply so floating, any position length and size) hanging pole one or two etc.. Then consider the covering, ceiling battens would be best hitting joists, easy if you can see /access them from above [I'm imagining lathe and plaster ceiling]. ... so I mentioned curtain as it's the least destructive (can go round corners) and avoids most cutting also can be easily changed.. .

Oh and my shitty picture

Well, that corner would be where a set of hinges are - but cool if you're set on that

I guess it's absolute basic would be a hanging pole and various shelves n hooks etc hidden by a curtain ceiling to floor.. so could the (I'm assuming not yours) ever so slightly over engineered frame be replaced with a whole two part hinged door / in a if opened all is revealed way or a more simple yet poncy design.. if not fisher hammerfix are great to secure battening

I'd go with that! I wonder where it sits in the league of creosote and bitumen paint... with that said I'd want to ask the manufacturer if the only product that can cover it / be applied on top of it, is itself

to carry it on , ih634n [washed dozens of times, even at a heathen 60°c],, given they are a 36 waist worn yesterday and today I'm wearing Dawson 34 standard it's fair to say they are roomy

Hamilton prestige 3/4" window brush and prestige 15mm round sash are used a lot- these have shorter bristles giving more pushing power, black paint does muller brushes, sometimes a good old shit brush is the only one that can do the job