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How much does a designated graphics card actually do?

If, say, I splash out and get myself a pretty new i5 skylake, 16GB ram and 512GB of M.2 SSD and no GPU, how much worse would that be compared to, say chris's variant with an i3 and a GTX950?

Are there any benchmark sites where I can view these differences?

I have found my main problem:

While not shying back from a little electronics-lego, I have actually no idea, what's good, bad or mediocre in terms of performance/price.

I currently have a laptop (Lenovo S-430, i5-3210m, 8GB Ram, GT 620M) which is beginning to severly lack in about every way.

I want something "significantly better", able to run new-ish games on 1080p on medium settings, and not too large. I'll gladly upgrade to a desktop, that way I could purge the laptop of any unneeded stuff and use it as a mobile platform - as intended.

@Well_is_it thanks. That does look pretty and fits the budget, but again I have no idea how this will actually do.

that said: I can find a 512GB M.2 SSD for about 150€/£ (thanks brexit). What's the difference between the 2.5inch sata3 and M.2 except the size?

I'm not shying away from the building stuff myself. It's just... pretty?

Okay, clearly being irrational here.

What can I build for 500€?

Yeah, probably for 700€ I can build something stronger/cheaper. But then this thing is neat and portable and could probably "just work"

decisions...

Sooo... That Skull Canyon NUC
I can find it barebones for ~400€ online (please excuse my forrin currency). Add 16GB of RAM for ~100€ and 512GB of SSD for ~150€ and I have a working machine for 650-700€.

Is that actually worth it?
I'd like something reasonable that can handle modern games (don't have to have 4k or any shenanigans, just run smoothly) and some graphics editing. Maybe the odd 3d modeling. All casual.

Oh, that should be fun.
The "problem" with Starcraft would be the speed of the decisionmaking.

If they can have the machine act fast enough to overcome a human player in clicks/minute, then I see little chance on the human players side. If the decisions done by the machine take longer than the decisions made by the human, the human wins.

Expected the usual nob jokes.

Instead I got loving memories of the two dogs my family had while growing up.

Now I'm getting all sentimental.

Good story.

That does look hot.
With RAM and a SSD you are looking at ~800€ though.

still cheaper than a lot of other stuff.

Damnit, last weeks light was spectacular around here. Hope to get a decent picture in at sunset today.

An image taken last week is not allowed, right?

Yes! All the triple-triangle-goodness!

That sounds about 60% scientific and 40% bullshit.

Seems to be the old Continental Rubber plant in Hannover

Are there any examples of MAX forks with straight, non-tapering blades?

Would have to check. It would certainly rotate the calipers body. Which then means that the pad sits at an angle to the disc, which can't be too good either.

@snottyotter and ruin the PM surfaces? Or bodge the IS interface? I'd rather not..

Either my mind is playing me tricks, ooor...

Well I think that wont solve the issue, as it would rotate the caliper further outwards?

File... but where?

Let's try this.

Nope, all washers are on the outside. IS mount with PM adapter. There's no way I can drop anything there.

In my pocket right now. It's excellent. Have had it for years.

This is actually the case. Pads are chamfered, so that should sort itself out as the pads wear.

Still I checked alignment etc. and found out, that the mount seems to be correct.

Still the pads overlap the top of the disc by 1-1.5mm

On the old pads one of them built a "lip" where the disc wore into them. Can't be that good?

Still - I know of no way to actually bring the caliper closer to the disc.

The disc is the same model as before. So... unlikely.

The pads however have changed. I upgraded to a "better" 2quid more expensive version. I'll check where the disc sits and if it clears the upper edge of the pads.

Alright, new chain time.
Wanted to change ratio anyway.

@Sumo truth been spoken.

I bought compatible pads and they fit the brake - so I hope it's not that.

Wheel: will check on that. But that would mean I'm too stupid to install a front wheel.

Mount: I only changed Disc and pads, nothing else from how it was before. The problem has been occurring before, but not as bad (1-2mm).

@edscoble: Will check. That would mean me riding it the wrong way around for two years though.

@Emyr: oh, err. I "think" I bought the right adapter 2 years ago. Will check.

I have a little bit of a riddle on my hands.

So I finally got around to cleaning and repairing my fixed commuter and it went from "gates of mordor" drivetrain to sweet blissfull silence.

One odd thing occurred though: As I took off the chain it appeared to be completeley seized. Every link was only movable with some force.
Upon inspection it seemed as if the narrow links of the chain got somehow widened up and mashed against the outer plates, thus seizing the chain. I then took a pair of needlenose pliers and applied some force to the narrow links, which effectively unseized the whole chain. Quite an ordeal though.

Since this was a @mdcc_tester approved Wipperman 1Z1 chain, I do not expect to be suffering fiery deaths for my impromptu modification, but still I wonder what may have caused this?

Chainline issues perhaps? I have noticed the chainring is not perfectly true, but the crank is a SRAM s300 and the rear is a novatec track hub, so the chainline is not really adjustable. Also this is the first time this has happened on the bike. It went through some different chains and two different chainrings in the time.

Any ideas?