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Amazing.

Cheers.
I tried to snap a photo just now, but the combination of dimly lit cellar and crap cellphone camera didn't do so well.
Anyway here goes:

from left to right:

• Paracord 550 outer hull as a colorful cover for the liner
  
• teflon liner
  
• rubber boot
  
• cable stop on frame
  
• jagwire ferrule with liner
  
• outer cable.
  
  

Good luck with your project!

hhsttb >>>>>>>

@miro_o Actually these rubber boots have too small openings to get the liner through, as they are designed to ride on the brake cable directly. But as they are made of very flexible rubber, I have just forced them on, and they hold very securely and have yet to fail (3-4 months in).
I got mine here, via ebay

I forgot to take a picture though, sorry...

@miro_o @AngelD I got both the ferrules and the rubber things on ebay. Just did a quick search for jagwire ferrules. they sell seperately.
They were quite cheap also, something about £2.

Is that adjuster meant for brake cables?
If it doesn't fit, maybe it's meant for shifter cables wich have a smaller diameter (4mm vs 5mm)?

@AngelD Thanks, but the problem isn't really the clamps themselves, as they have plenty of power. The problem is that the cable running between the two clamps on the toptube isn't taut but slack and therefore slacking around.

@miro_o No, not the entire length. That would only work with Nokon Style outer cables, as you mentioned. I run teflon tubing where the bare brakecable would be exposed, so between the two cable bosses on the top tube. I use Jagwire connectors to connect the outers to the tubing in a near watertight manner.

These endcaps have a liner that protudes. these connect to these rubber "rain covers"

which then connect to the teflon tube.

I'll take a picture of the setup on the bike tomorrow.

They do. They work well also.
I have used them for about a year and changed to my sealed setup mainly for aesthetic reasons.

With a standard TT and these the full length cable will run slightly off center.
Also, since there is no pressure holding the cable straight it will bend and wobble around on your top tube. I had to fix it down with two zip-ties to stop it from going everywhere every time I step off the bike.
This is especially true with CS frames who have the cable routing on top of the TT.

I'd prefer a sealed housing setup, but if you want full length cables then this is a solution.

I botched some together out of some Jagwire connector parts and 3mm teflon tubing for the exposed bit. works quite well on my Cross Check.
I can take a picture of it when I get home.
Its quite a cheap alternative as you can use any 5mm housing, and the parts you need are probably under £10

Since CX is a little messy I'd go for sealed, or full length housing.
Compressionless or not is up to how much money you want to spend.

Okay, okay, you got me with the frontbrake.
Still the frame is pretty cool. Set at 135mm with horizontal dropouts it would make for a rad singlespeed. maybe?

Or just a spacer to mimic the stack height of a headset cup? That's what builders do when building a frame and testing if the clearances are ok etc

I think this is it.
If you google-search the photo, other photographs from the same shoot come up and you can see another knurled bit at the top of the headtube. Could be a faux-headset.

Fuck off.

:-(

And no front brake? Anyone riding this is asking to be knocked off of it.

Do it!!

Looks like a fork crown spacer to add A-C length?

Rad!
I'm still waiting for mine. 6 weeks to go...

I dunno, adds a certain puzzled quizzicality to the question mark.

This had me laughing.
I like the new font.
Also nice "LFGSS" Tab in the menu.

Camping chairs do have a certain appeal.
Also the transition from 6 weeks of holidays back to "reality" must be a little rough.

Great read! Thanks!

Yes, exactly.
But when the "casual" riding position is hurting me, then there's a fit problem.

Or is this thread for non-casual serious business riding only?

I'm not riding a lopro or anything with comparably rad saddle-bar drop. It's a pretty straighforward bike.

I wouldn't worry about bike fit too much if you're using risers.

Why is that?

This is a fixed gear bike with a geometry not unlike a road bike.

Well the risers have about 4cm of rise and no additional reach, whereas the drops have 0cm rise and about +10cm of reach on the hoods and -12cm of rise and +4cm of reach in the drops.
Leaving the arms in their usual "nearly outstreched" form will tilt my torso upward a bit, seeing as there are about 16cm difference between the extremes.

Or am I riding my bike wrong?

I like the simplicity of risers, so I expect I have to get some reach back and maybe lose some stack to get back into the old position? That would mean buy a new (and considerably odd) stem.

Or can this be adjusted some other way?

Or do I just HTFU until my knees have acclimatised to the new position?

So.
I changed my compact dropbars to risers, nothing else changed, saddle angle/position, stem, everything the same and suddenly my knees are exploding.

I realize I have a more upright position on the bike now, but does it really change that much?

Fair enough.
I can see an animated favicon getting pretty annoying pretty fast.