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where is the rider?

Lovely frame, I had a Dawes like this but with webbed lugs, nice and stiff. I have never raced, but I enjoy thrashing my beater on laps of the parks and seeing where gains can be made (if not solely to pass crabon junkies). I offer you my experience from the past year of cycling, so take it with a pinch of salt;

My bike is 80s steel 531c with old campy parts, all on their last legs but still functioning. Best areas for spending money and getting better results are the ones you don't see. Getting a cassette and chain rings with the right ratios for laying down your specific power range is crucial imho. Then pedal/shoe combo; speedplay >> standard cleats I have found recently, made me far more confident in accelerating. If the frame is your size then I'd really recommend buying £10 saddles on ebay and getting your position perfected on hoods and drops, trying each one for a few miles. I thought my fizik was great and didn't need altering but I swapped about a bit and now ride a 90s cinelli which allows me to float like I didn't think possible. Then brake pads! Forget what callipers you have as it's just marketing, I got a set of swisstop pads for £12 and being able to brake late is a far bigger advantage than bling, could save you quite a bit over a whole race if it's winding roads. When it comes to race day put your savings into tubes and tyres, not wheels.

"Quick Ginger, we haven't a moment to lose!"

"The mint makes it first, it is up to you to make it last."

Even if as suggested you end up building as a commuter don't spend more than £100 extra on parts. I'd put money on that being a crack so anything you do put on it is compromised. It would be hard to justify spending 2k on parts on any steel Raleigh, especially when something like this happens http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Raleigh-853-Road-Frame-SPD-/171535952755
2k would cover a Master Piu build with dura ace group and still leave enough left to donate and give many communities access to clean drinking water, or food.
If you want to get to know bikes and you have that much money, start a community project with volunteers that dismantle donated bikes and keep the usable parts building bikes for people that aren't as fortunate as yourself.

Or treat us all to Zunow build

Got a frame which I have stripped stickers off.
All campy parts, braze on front mech, cable routed (both holes on top of the t-tube), notable head lug as in photo.
Under the spray can red it would appear that the forks and rear triangle are purple and the s-tube, t-tube, d-tube are silver. Reminded me of vitus dural colour schemes, or the 90s carerra 531 ranges.

Any Ideas?

Bars are Sakae Ergo NJS Some were branded Sakae and others 3TTT

Frame is columbus max? Stem is unlikely itm or cinelli, my guess is 3t pro from the bolt placement, some where made out of columbus tubing .

Bars do say 3ttt, look like anatomica ones with an inch cut off the ends. It has the bar tape collar by the clamp, if they had been wrapped all the way up (not track style) they wouldn't look as curved as they do.

No 56 is no help as either a low volume shed builder's mark or built as batch to be rebranded for shop. BB shell cut out is not distinctive but interesting as you'd expect there to be finer lugwork to accompany but it is all plain. But along with the tight clearance on the front fork and the thin web on rear dropouts; implies good craftsmanship. Looks like a modest comfy ride, worth a punt

Loving it. Went and read the website for Woody 1. Thank you for providing great literature for the builds, has inspired the carpenter within me to have a go at this myself. Brilliant stuff !!!

Sceptical about Mercian as generally, although there are exceptions, they have indexed numbers where the last two numbers (or first two) denote the year. This doesn't fit your number. Also the location, and way they have been stamped is not familiar to me as fitting with Mercian.

The front forks look like 70s Prugnat integral. Are the dropouts forged with Campagnolo written around them? Is the rear brake bridge curved or flat?

http://x.co/5VygH

As my last post went so well, hoping for another helping hand.

Need help with identification of a frame. RETALLICK Lo-Pro TT frame, Columbus Acciaio Speciale decal, Cinelli stickers, Suntour dropouts, Gipiemme brake bridge, (What looks original) Omas Headset. Good quality build, Seat and chain stays are tapered to aerodynamic profile. Paint looks like professional job not in-house. No makers mark or flourishes anywhere. Andrew Hague seat bolt, quite a rare and distinctive choice which implies British built?

Frame number is on BB shell " J G R 135 - 87 " Guessing from the spec that the "87" is the year and 135 is the frame number, so low volume custom frame builder, possibly J.G.Retallick ? Can't find anything online, the decals look original and can't be a one off as the head tube sticker is a logo that matches the type on the other tubes.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/174118/
&
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/207028/

probably a precursor to the mistral which had the same fork crown and lug set but with the wrap-over seat steay. Thanks RVL !

35308 on bottom bracket shell underside, parallel to the spindle

I agree, not a Gillott but hoping the sleeved bridge would narrow it down. Another distinctive feature is the seat stay, unlike most other as it is not a wrap around, fast back or flat cap

Look L96 Speed, dura ace 144 but printed with shimano logo instead, thought it was a TT ring?
The cranks are more interesting, they come with the bike and by adjusting the bolt you change how long they are, very stiff carbon one piece

Hello again, forum has all changed! Have been riding this as a beater but now thinking it might deserve a restoration. Thought it might have connections to Gillott with the sleeved brake bridge and forward-backward dropouts, but the lugwork looks like Falcon. Frame number is 35308, most likely 531 double butted. Thoughts welcome!




Thank You

Leave the mounts on, you need them for cable guides to derailleurs. Depends on your intentions, Geared?

If bolts look corroded; spray, rest and repeat in WD40 before you try unscrewing as you risk rounding the allen head.

Seat post is slammed and looks like it's been that way for a while, brace yourself for it being frozen.

You want a cotterless crank puller, Park tool if you can afford, check the tool classifieds for used ones.

Paint is wholly dependant on budget, you can go for £10 to £100. Shot blasting and powder coating are additional factors, or Nitro mors is £10.

found this http://www.lfgss.com/thread21507.html

anybody have experience of this with titanium parts (I wanted to do seat rails and bolts) please forward info here

Can anybody shed light onto the finishing of Cinelli Grammo Art stems, I presume it is a heat treatment with chemical transfer / reagent. Looks similar to Newton's rings in a oil / water boundary but how could this be the case if it is pure metal? Is it unique to titanium? Reminds me of drill bits and dichroic glass work

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vi2XNPi3w_g/UX3IYhWVAJI/AAAAAAAACXo/5V7RqA3l2EA/s1600/DSC_0369.JPG

99p for Diamant racer, guess 531 with turbo saddle, exage group panaracer tyres on mavic ma2 rims? - too far away or me but somebody up north might like it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Boys-classic-road-cycle-/181462406762?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2a4000966a

those bars

maybe a little more drillium to match, seat post?

what straps are they? look beautiful

1st gen Dura-Ace, full Bluemels with original reflector :

Mock up:

You need a bench polisher in your life.

I intend to use the big-boy one at uni when term starts. Increasing the arthritis risk until then; champion.