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Thanks.
To match the Surly fixed/disc hub, which I already had built into a wheel. If I'd known I wasn't going to have a rear brake, I'd have used a different hub (prob. Shimano XT front disc with velosolo axle and bolt-on cog) for a narrower chainline and road cranks. I don't mind the wider cranks though, so no big deal.
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Fixed Synapse disc:

Wheels Manufacturing Eccentric BB:

More here: http://www.lfgss.com/comments/12490487/
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Fixed Cannondale Synapse disc:

A few changes from stock - Wheels Manufacturing EBB, Deore MTB cranks (for 53mm chainline), Surly Ultra New fixed/disc rear + Shimano XT dynamo front hubs with Stans Alpha 340 rims. B+M Luxos front light. Thomson post as I ham-fistedly cracked the carbon post and no-one else seems to make a decent 25.4mm one.
Trying out the Bigtop Rando bag - only arrived yesterday so first ride on it this morning. Not sure I like the effect on the handling, might work better on a slower-steeering bike.
Wheels Manufacturing Eccentric BB:

Cable guide and rear brake removed as the bolts/axle foul the cables. Might do something about the gaping hole in the BB shell but my nice big front mudflap keeps most of the water out.
Non-drive side cup is a bit tight in the frame but it moves ok if you lean on the lockring wrench hard enough. Seems to be staying in place so far (done 70 miles or so on it) and doesn't creak yet. The seals squeak a bit in the wet so I'll get some more grease under them when I take the BB apart at the weekend - the spacers Wheels Mfg provided with the BB weren't wide enough for the longer MTB crank axle so I need to make one that fits better than the 1" headset spacer I'm currently using to push the NDS crank out.
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Anyone put an eccentric bottom bracket into the BB30 on a Cannondale with internal cable routing? Trying to figure out a neat solution to turning my 2014 aluminium Synapse disc into fixed. Have got a Wheels Manufacturing eccentric for Hollowtech II cranks but the bolts and axle foul the cable guide inside the bottom bracket, push it out of position and stop the rear brake from working.
I reckon I've got three options:
- Ditch the rear brake. Not ideal - would prefer a brake if I can have one.
- Run full length outer externally - need to use zip ties or stick-on cable guides. Ugly.
- Drill out the cable stops in the frame and fit a full length outer inside the frame, hoping that it doesn't rattle or rub the axle where it passes through the BB. Seems a bit extreme.
Any ideas?
- Ditch the rear brake. Not ideal - would prefer a brake if I can have one.
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The lathe is a 12" x 24" 2HP Excel . Seems good enough and came with lots of bits. Cost around £3k new, IIRC. The mill is a Bridgeport we bought S/H, also for about £3k. It's got a rotary table with 3-jaw chuck, which will make drilling the spoke and disc mount holes much easier. The Bridgeport is lovely and if I could afford one and had the space I'd get one for home.
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They're not complicated and the materials and bearings for one hub were just over £30 but I'm not taking orders. If I were to make them on the manual tools I've got access to each one would take several hours and I'd have to charge £200 or so. Even if I could get the parts CNCed they'd probably still cost over £100 each. Though maybe I ought to get some quotes and see...
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^^^ That disc adaptor isn't what I wanted at all. Besides, I like making stuff.
^^ But I don't like making stuff that much. I doubt there will ever be more than one of these. The hub shell is going to take me hours (I'm not a professional machinist...) and the lathe and mill are manual, not CNC.
^ Ha, that Ted James one is exactly what I'm planning, though his lathe is a bit fancier than mine. Nice.
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Built a Pompetamine up just after Christmas with a bolt on Velosolo cog on the disc mount of my SS 29er wheels, but this means that a) I can't run a back brake and 2) my 29er doesn't have any wheels. There are only two solutions out there that I can see for fixed disc hubs - Phil Wood or Surly and both are over £100. I also really like the bolt on cogs, so decided to make my own:
It only exists on CAD at the moment, but I've done some rough 2D drawings and ordered the raw material, bearings and seals and hope to start making it next week
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Fids, they're Nitto M184. Not sure if you can get them in this country (or anywhere else, for that matter) any more. They're shagged though, I did them up a bit tight and the face plate on an old stem damaged the clamp area.
Chris, I just used the 107mm BB I had - just moved the ring to the outside. Lined up to within a couple of mm. Probably going to swap the rear hub to a Surly fixed disc so I might change the cranks then.
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If the starting format is the same, I'm planning on entering in the 84 hour group. This'll mean a nice morning start and only three overnight sections rather than 4 (which you may still have to do on the 80 hour start). All this is, of course, subject to change close to entry time.
If you like getting out of bed at 3am then the 84 hour is a nice morning start. It was too damn early for me. By the time we got to Loudeac (or might have been Tinteniac) at who knows what time the next morning it felt like I'd been awake for weeks anyway.
I've got permission from the missus to ride in 2015 - will probably do the 90 hour start this time and try to take more time and enjoy the ride.
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haha well I never, it turns out there's an 800km in a part of the world I know very well. So whats the time limit on that then, I can't see it on that page?
Minimum speed is 13.3km/h so time limit is 60h 9m (800/13.3)
And yes, full value = slow.
I really need to get back into audaxing properly this year. I've signed up for Mark Rigby's 600 in June but haven't ridden further than 60 miles in one go since September.
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Reader's wife:
