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But surely the average fork supplied with this frame would have been a Manitou or RockShox or similar, with ~200mm of steerer? The headset supplied with the frame was an old Ritchey Logic, which has a greater stack height than the Tange. It's definitely been ridden and was originally setup with the Manitou forks in the top image...

Cheers, I think I'm going with the Tange.

I've just realised something (these things never go smoothly). The Marin has a very long head tube at 180mm. I've received the Kona fork today, which has 220mm of steerer (which would usually be considered pretty generous) however this means 40mm total free space for the headset and stem. The Tange has a stack height of ~26mm... am I in trouble here?

That's what I was going with, but in my ignorance misspelt the title. It'll probably end-up being about the same length.

Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement headset? I always ask this question and I always buy a Cane Creek 40, so I don't know why I'm even asking, but I'd rather not drop €50 on a headset if there is another half-decent alternative I'm not thinking of. Why don't bike companies make components in silver any more? This is just like hi-fi, suddenly someone in the 80's decided everything had to be black. Take a look at a Pioneer SA-9800 and tell me that that decision was progress.

Tange Seiki J-27? Silver, shiny

Tricky to tell exactly what the bb shell serial is but it looks like MJ2HA0189.

There is also D3 stamped into the inner rear dropouts. @Egghead I think you are right, this colourway is completely different to all the others I've seen (since doing a bit of research), but it seems to have been done well (the frame is chromed beneath the red). Thanks for all the information, it has made me much more interested in the history of this particular frame.

Image seemed to have disappeared. More to follow!

I picked this up this morning, after spending years looking for a large frame here in Italy. This is, I believe a 21" frame (54cm seattube and 60cm toptube) but the tubing I'm not 100% sure on. It has these strange 'grooves' running along the length of the tubes, and is very light.

I am not sure about the year - I would guess mid 90's but it has a 1 1/8 headtube (Ritchey Fuzzy Logic) and the logos look like the later ones. It's in remarkably good condition, I think the previous owner really looked after it. I've stripped it down, removed the forks (I want to put some Kona P2 forks on it) but other than that, I'm not sure what the best course of action is. I've already got two 26" rigid mountain bikes, albeit in aluminium, so I had considered using this as a kind of... gravel bike by setting it up singlespeed with some medium tyres, maybe even (shudder) disc brakes, perhaps in the front only.

If anyone has any info about it, I'd really appreciate it as it'll help me to make sure the parts I get are (relatively) period correct. Any suggestions for a decent 26" wheelset? Was thinking silver parts for this. Apparently the BB is 68mm and the seatpost 27.2mm, so I should have a few spare bits I can use for the time being.

Not to worry Wim, in the end (after driving to look at the bike - having been provided with blurry photos that were no help whatsoever) it turns out the bike was in far worse condition than I'd thought. The frame was 'OK' but the rest less so. The seller wouldn't budge on the price, which was too high anyway, despite the rear derailleur being bent, the headset/BB being shot, and the bike in general needing lots of work. Oh well, lots more to look for!

That would be great, thanks! I've got a few 26" mountain bikes that I'm slowly replacing the old suspension forks on. I managed to get a very good Kona Project 2 for one of them, with 200mm of steerer, so anything similar would be ace. I think I could get away with 170mm minimum, without knowing which stem I'd use. It isn't an issue if they have v-brake mounts as opposed to discs, as I prefer rim brakes. Yes, 1 1/8" diameter. I'm in the process of buying an old Diamond Back (see above) but want to use some rigid forks for my commuter bike.

One solution would be to sell me a pair of 26" rigid forks you have that you no longer need...
I've been looking for months. I don't suppose you have any threadless ones that you'd consider selling? That would make a little space that you could always fill with something else.

The Giant was sold overnight so it's clearly a sign from the heavens - I'm picking up the Diamond Back tomorrow afternoon. I'm still not 100% sure which model it is though; could be apex, ascent, axis. It's got similar paint to the one I posted before, but has 'grip shift' logos on the top tube.

@billygoat28 is this fork still available? It might match my awful MAGA frame perfectly.

Been offered one of these locally (not this exact bike, but more or less the same). Not sure if it is worth the extra over a Giant Chaos that is also for sale around the corner... any thoughts? Both LX, both canti brakes, but the DB is True Tempter TT Lite and may even be a former team bike (stickers), but the Giant is less than half the price... @vpCogworks @WimVDD what do you think?

Probably for the best, I've got 5 bikes in my apartment already. I wasn't that far out with my guess, at least you are in the north!

Did you ever sell this? And where are you in Italy - looks like the north, Trento?

If you have a Sub 300 you could try this guy. Not a recommendation, just know the feeling!

https://gregoriades.com/product/2-x-caseback-gaskets-for-vintage-doxa-swiss-sub-300-series-cushion-shaped-automatic-watches/

Been out for a ride today, smooth roads only because, you know, 23mm tyres. Shifting is fine, crisp, but seems quite mechanical in comparison with my Scapin bikes (Dura Ace and Veloce). It is fast, I must admit, and takes no time at all to get up to a decent speed. Steering is a little noodly though, perhaps as I'm used to wider bars. Still, after the agony, it was fun!

Did someone say "massive watch"?

Finally.

I've got quite a few watches, but I think because my first was a Citizen (when I was about 16 years old) I've had an affinity for them ever since. They are underrated in my opinion. They take an absolute beating but don't seem to ever put a foot wrong. I suppose the same could be said for Seiko, but a comparison of the average prices shows quite a disparity. My Citizen diver from '78 has only ever had one service (that I know of).

The lume is ridiculous too, and even though it's 100m WR it's been fine surfing and swimming. I like that it is so easy to read.

At the beach today.

I need to wrap the bars but things are looking good!

If the mountain will not come to Muhammad, Muhammad must make his own ferrule.

I think the problem is that the insert of the ferrule needs to be relatively snug, to prevent the cable from sitting at a strange angle (and therefore not allowing the cable to run smoothly through the stop when shifting). What seems so bizarre to me is that the manufacturer of the stop (Silva) didn't make the ferrules - only Campagnolo would have supplied them with the cables themselves. So where are all the 5mm Campagnolo ferrules? Did they ever make them? If so, where are they? If not, how did the people who owned frames with this particular chainstay stop make them work?

I've read more about this than I ever could have possibly wanted, and it seems as though simply using the cable outer on its own won't work, as over time the strands of the cable become damaged - or so a few people in a similar position have stated.

I found another shop selling ferrules here in Italy and I've asked them for some advice, but I think the last remaining solution might be to have someone create a ferrule on a lathe.

This is driving me mad now. The guy in Germany has confirmed his are 4mm in diameter, so 1mm too small. Someone, somewhere must know where I can get a gear cable ferrule with a 5mm insert? They must be made/sold still? Please