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Orange talbot logo actually made it look like it was stainless tubeset underneath as I walked by. Your race bike?
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Ah cool. Nicest bike around for a long while.
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yeah think so. Down by Exe canal
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SW UK.
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Lovely. Where was this?
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who's is this? saw a very similar talbot in the south west the other day
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if decide to sell, would be interested.
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Right thought I’d post here before setting up a classifieds post.
Any of the long limbed here fancy some equally lengthy cranks to fit to your garden gates?
Dura ace 7800 53-39 177.5mm good condition £45+ postage
Dura ace 7700 53-39 180mm ok condition apart from one tab for inner chainring missing £20+ postage
Sram apex 50-34 180mm vgc inc. gxp bb £50+ postageIf anybodies interested pm me and can send better pics of condition of arms, teeth etc.
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Yep it’s absolutely fab. Shame you don’t find it about that much.
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Longrow 18, talisker 18. At the bottom of your scale Nikka pure malt black is really tasty, very lightly peated and a good example of Japanese blending. Only a 50cl bottle though.
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the b-stock knives on there are lovely. Was tempted.
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I've got a 9' gyuto and a petty from the same series as my main knives. Lovely knives and no need to be precious about them.
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Popped them on my girlfriends hybrid. Wired and heavy but seem to roll quite nicely for the price.
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What size neoclassic you after?
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Haven’t used tubeless but used both PR and SB pro series tyres and the PR race vulcanised tyres.
Pro series tyres are utter arses to fit on tubeless compatible rims but lovely rolling and good compound. Grip predicable and good in both wet and dry. Both have double puncture strip in them (updated as originally PR only had single) which works fairly well, I ran SB all winter with 1 puncture which is pretty good for Devon lanes. On 21mm internal rims the PR came up about 30mm and the SB about 33mm.
Pro series uses a super poly casing rather than cotton (300 vs 260 tpi for PR vs SB). The white version uses a silk casing which might rot if it gets really wet and is left wet.
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Should be able to get scary sharp with that. Tried permanent marker on the cutting surface to make sure your removing material where you think you are?
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Looking for something similar but with a longer steerer. Could I ask what was this off?
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Depends I suppose. For an 853/Columbus frame and fork from one of uk’s top long-standing builders it’s not expensive. But it’s custom built for someone else’s fit.
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Tricky question but to a point how long they stay sharp and how comfy they are in your hand. Steel that’s been heat treated and worked more is more brittle (harder) and so can be sharpened to a finer angle without deforming. Softer steels cannot be sharpened to the same angle but are less prone to chipping.
Cheaper knives tend to be made of softer steels so when sharpened to a reasonable angle so that you chop things easily, the edge doesn’t last long. Knives of harder steels can maintain a finer cutting edge for longer but before they deform but take more effort to sharpen. Knives made of very hard steel stay sharp for ages at normal angles or can be made very very sharp. But the brittleness means they’re prone to chipping against hard surfaces.
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of fixed gear and single-speed cyclists.
Garden orb weaver spiderlings from the looks of it.