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DT Swiss 350 hubs are about as reliable and long lasting as you'll get.
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I've had some of those Blackburn cages for a few years. They're not bad for the price, but they don't hold a bottle particularly well. You might be able to bend them, but I've snapped an SS cage in the past, so haven't tried!
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10 speed SRAM + x7 type 2 derailleur
Juintec / acor brakes
Yeh, this. "Exact actuation" or whatever it's called, so all SRAM 10 speed (MTB and Road) is compatible.
SRAM Rival shifters are cheap second hand and the same as Force near enough. Think the Red ones are a bit different.
Works with Shimano 10 speed cassettes.
Juintech brakes seem pretty good, although I've yet to actually use mine.
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Thanks James, that's the sort of thing, although I'm really after something I don't need to replace the heel pads on.
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Yeh, pretty sure they use Novatec hubs, they look similar enough.
Just Riding Along are possibly worth a look aswell, although I know some of their hubs are the Bitex ones.
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One of these might work
Not sure which though....
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As above, condition not too important. Only after something with a three bolt carbon sole and the heel cup thingy; so either Ergos, Genius 6.6 or Wires at a push. Cheers
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Exactly, probably fuck all. Some people can be sensitive to the smallest change in bike fit/geometry; usually though, it'll feel well different to start with but you'll get used to it in no time.
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saddle height (lower),
shorter stem/shorter reach bars,
saddle further forward,
different shape saddle,
or she might need to rotate her pelvis forward more, in which case she'll probably need more saddle to bar drop and a longer stem.
I'd try stuff in the order above though. -
Yes, a longer top tube means a greater distance from your saddle to the handlebars. On road racing frames, manufacturers seem to spec slacker seat tube and steeper head tube angles to give taller riders enough space to fit into, whilst maintaining a short wheelbase.
If you currently have an "aggressive" fit (i.e. lots of saddle to bar drop) and you want to maintain that, then you'll probably need an inline seatpost with the slacker seat tube, otherwise your hip angle might be a bit tight and you'll struggle to spin smoothly.
But, if you want something a bit more "relaxing" go with the slacker seat tube and raise the bars up a bit.
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:-D
Feel free to ignore my advice OP.
A set of Shimano Deores will be just the ticket.
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Easy, just make sure you get "flat bar" levers rather than MTB V Brake levers, else the cable pull is off and your brakes won't work very well.
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Fizik seatpost now sold.
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Just to confirm
I'm going to try and sell the whole lot together before I start
selling things separately.I'll let you know if/when I decide to split.
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I replied to you a day ago!
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Sorry, missed that.
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Price drop on the groupset
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Genesis saddle now sold.
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A few items for sale; I'm not based in London, so prices include recorded delivery. Please add 3.4% if you'd like Paypal's cover.
Campagnolo/Shimano 11 speed part groupset, comprising of the following items:
Chorus 11 shifters (pre 2015). Good condition, they have the new style hoods fitted (there is a small tear in the left one).
Campagnolo Athena 11 rear mech. Reasonable condition, a few marks, all fixtures and fittings stripped and relubed.
Campagnolo Athena 11 front mech, braze on. Reasonable condition, delogo'd as I had it on a "stealth" bike :-D
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 cassette, 25-12 (I also a 28 top cluster I'll include aswell). I'm not sure how much life's left in it, hopefully you can tell from the close-up picture.
£140 for the lot.Fizik Cyrano R3 seatpost, alloy, 330mm x 27.2mm. Good condition, although there's some small marks/sratches toward the bottom. £35
Genesis saddle, black, steel rails. Similar (same?) shape as a Charge Spoon. Never used. £12.50
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The bike the OP is looking at appears to be some sort of track bike.
Maintaining the same saddle setback regardless of bike type sounds very KOPSian to me. I'm surprised anyone can ride an MTB or a TT bike with their saddles so far forwards!
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Saddle height and set-back should be the same regardless of the bike
(bearing in mind we're talking commuting/road here).Well that's not true. I thought KOPs had been debunked? As I said above, don't get fixated with certain numbers. Want an aggressive track bike fit? You'll probably need to move your saddle forward a bit compared to your road bike.
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Not really; the intended use and geometry determines the fit. A TT bike, a road bike, a MTB, a shopping bike will all be fit differently for the same rider. And by that I mean:
saddle-bar drop
saddle height
saddle-bar distance
saddle setback etc. will be different for each bike.That's why it's important to not get too fixated on numbers
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of fixed gear and single-speed cyclists.
Says it all!
Toss the freehub off and stick a bit of grease in if the noise pisses you off. They're not too bad though, no where near Hope levels of sound.