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I think gluteal engagement partly depends on pedaling "style" and also how much forward rotation you have in your pelvis. Therefore, if you're going for an inline seatpost, you may find you need to lower your bars further which'll mean you have to rotate more and hence engage your glutes.
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Why not just secure it with the nut that the brake caliper screws into? Would save using cable ties!
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Have you written to your local MP?
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Try a good chiropractor.
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sacroiliac joint pain?
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Yeh, the chances of her being a great talent......I couldn't really say!
It's possibly the current Mixmag standard, I have subscribed to their channel for a new mix every few days. Some are ropey at best, others I play more than once (such as the above).
Can you recommend some good stuff that's an hour or two long and available on youtube? I just go round in circles half the time.
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Painfully dull
Did you copy and paste that from the youtube comments? :-D
It could actually be, I've only had it on at work in the background. I remember there was one or two (or more) good tunes in it though.
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Some size 47 Drakos here for a bargain price.
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Sounds about right! You should deffo do it if you're stretching your hamstrings, as your pelvis will get pulled further forward if you've got loose hamstrings but tight quads/hip flexors.
If you want a good glute stretch, here's one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qby3ZsiidMY
Uses a wall, but you don't need to put any effort in at all to get a really good stretch.
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If you're gonna stretch your hamstrings, make sure you stretch your quads and hip flexors aswell. This stretch against a wall is a good one. When doing it, tense your glutes for full effect.
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I've lost the cable guide piece from my left/front shifter. It's a yellow beige sort of colour, I've circled it on the attached image.
Does anyone have a spare they'd be able to part with?
Thanks
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Here's some cheap guards that I've just bought to potentially replace the Radials I bought a month or two ago.
https://www.sportpursuit.com/catalog/product/view/id/1180125
Thought I'd give people a heads up as they look fairly decent and they're only twelve quid delivered.
Other colours/widths are available.
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Campag shifters and Spyres do not work at all very well. They just do not pull enough cable, and there's no alternative cable routing/mods you can do that solves the problem. I would not bother. They work, but compared with Shimano levers they're shite.
The main problem is you have to run the pads so close to the rotor to get them to bite, and then they often don't retract fully once you've released the lever, and hence they drag on the rotor. I think part of the problem is the pad adjustment screws aren't indexed, they're just free to screw in/out as they please. The only thing stopping them is some blue loctite.
I recently bought Juin Tech R1 calipers and these are better with the Campag levers. Braking is still not mega, although I they're on the stock pads and I could do with setting them up properly. However, compared to the Spyres, they're a dream.
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Other option is a JTek shiftmate
Or a Lindarets Goat Link.
Or buy some second hand 9/10/11 speed Shimano MTB rear mechs and see if you can get one of them to work acceptably.
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Your saddle sounds like it's too high.
I double check your crotch-to-floor measurement, then go with the Lemond method as a start .
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Yeh, that Robert Hood tunes a goodun. I heard it in this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoFvwW1T0fA
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Not bad, they're pretty solid when fitted (the stays seem pretty chunky compared to other guards I've used) but I don't think they're wide enough/deep enough (i.e. the sides don't wrap around the tyre enough). Mine are fitted with 30mm tyres FWIW, wouldn't want to go any wider.
I had some of the plastic guards they used to do, and aside from rattling a bit, they were lighter and offered more coverage. Shame they stopped doing those as they were a cinch to adjust/fit (the stays were thin enough to chop with cable cutters).
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Campag Chorus for weight savings and a nicer looking chainset.
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Generally road chainstays are a good bit shorter than MTB chainstays which exacerbates the problem.
Considering 1x on an MTB already has problems in the largest sprockets (i.e. can't back pedal without the chain dropping off), I'd stick to the proper cranks.
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Don't forget to fit some carbon specific brake pads!
Also, I think it'd look nicer with the previous Chorus rear mech, the new ones look a bit crap.
Stunning bike though!
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of fixed gear and single-speed cyclists.
You could use a washer or two. Those plastic brackets are pretty solid, far more so than those shitty folded steel ones. I put a 90 degree bend in one using my kitchen hob, so I could mount it using a hole underneath the brake bridge; held find!