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@Hovis Maybe measure and replace the o-rings that live inside the end caps with harder ones (eBay - although pot luck because you won't know the hardness of the existing one, or have the option of specifying a harder one on eBay). Judder could be caused by compression of the rubber that won't manifest itself as play at the rim, but instead as flex. Just a suggestion...
Also, change of brake pad brand/material? Maybe the friction material is getting too hot and tacky too quickly.

Haha, didn't spot that.
... You win!

I also like how many shims and adaptors are used in this setup :-)

Bearings 41.0 x 30.15 x 6.5mm, 36x45 deg

(NPF!)

Is the end cap held onto the axle with a rubber o-ring?

@alialias @Netakure 01crabonz1

Some of that tightness could be from the steerer bung forcing the carbon tube to expand out a little. Looks great though. Acetone ftw! (EDIT just seen lasers)

Also interested in one (rim brake) if you're getting rid.
Thanks for the spokes and hub the other day btw. Spokes incidentally went on an r460 db (laced but not finished yet), and hub was laced 2-cross to a grey Archetype, both rims left over from other aborted projects.

Good plan. XR300 was suggested because there's a good chance they're the rims used on the factory wheels. If changing to a different rim (and buying new spokes), could be worthwhile considering something wider, like the XC279, XR22T, or XR31T, if either can be found within budget. @cycleclinic could be your man...!

It's a bit tight, but never noticed it rub while riding. At the point of potential contact, the powdercoat has been previously 'scrubbed' by the SG75 that was fitted previously.

If you're re-using hub & spokes, just wrap each spoke's third crossing with (electrical, masking) tape to keep the spokes in place, before progressively loosening and removing the nipples. Saves faff de/re-lacing, and really quick just to attach a new rim.
Clean the threads of the spokes with a toothbrush and some kind of solvent, though, and use fresh nips too if it was a commuter wheel.

Kinlin XR300

Using them no prob, but it's on an older frame with less tyre/more crank spider clearance.

How do you operate them? With your thumb, or by wrapping a hand under the bar?

Would be killer to see you smash everyone.
Let them put you in a team of four, bust out the zip ties and the sleeping pills, and bob's your uncle: you're a one man team!

Not sure - was on a teammates's credit card. Have they taken yours?

The A(erocoach) Team
See you there. 1x slow team on fixed from Manchester.
... Although so far no opportunity to submit a team name, and not heard anything from RB since entry was submitted 17 days ago.

@Netakure

Siiick

Has CTT added the amendments (i & ii) to rule 20(b) since this Marcin DQ thing? I'm sure I haven't read those before.

Will probably be too short (nowhere near enough post inside the frame) but you're welcome to it if you want to scavenge spares from the clamp (silver, not black). I have roughly the same inseam, but top of my saddle is about 760mm from BB axle, with 175mm of seatpost carbon showing (not incl. clamp topper) at the leading edge of the post. PM me if you're interested and I'll measure it properly and take some pics.

Hey dude, thank you for acting with integrity and for clearing that up :-)
Was alerted to this thread, therefore compelled to share the some information for prospective buyers.
Hope it is genuine for your bank balance's sake. Cheers!

Thank you :-)
None you can buy off the shelf (AFAIK) but a few frames share the post.
Was searching for a replacement for a while, after the my first frame was supplied with a post that was a bit too short. In the end I accidentally met another (shorter) PC owner and we swapped posts. Before meeting him I'd ordered a Fuji one from the US which looked similar (and had same clamp) but ended up tapering out to the same dims as a PX Stealth/Pro Carbon Track post, and I designed/printed off a 3D-printed plastic extension piece to glue onto my shorter one as a last resort (which almost certainly would have failed had I used it).
This probably won't be helpful, but below is a list of frames I've found (so far) to use the same seatpost moulding:

• Planet-X Stealth Track (the old aluminium one)
  
• Hed Aerolab V03 & V04 TT bikes
  
• Blue TR250 track bike
  
• (I'm sure there's one more but can't remember it. Will update if so!)
  
  

Also, I bought the frame (and swapped shorter post) from the guy I swapped posts with - incidentally the polished one in the photo is that frame, after I found a NOS uncut unicorn Hed V04 post at the January NCC Jumble for £5(!) so still have the shorter one spare if you need. If you're taller than 5'8", however, it's probably too short.

@tommmmmmm 's

Hello,
In the interest of transparency, it should be noted that this wheel was also advertised on eBay and the 01FIX1 - Manchester Fixed Gear Facebook group, where a couple of concerns were voiced over the authenticity of the wheel, and the seller was invited for discussion. Through Facebook, I engaged in a polite and friendly discussion with the seller on the afternoon of August 17th, who seems honest, polite and amiable.
Although a list of potentially suspicious details was presented during the discussion, I don't possess a genuine Io to compare it to, or an encyclopedic knowledge of the Io's design evolution, so as a result of this lack of certainty over its alleged inauthenticity, the sales post was left to stand.
However, since our discussion, the sales post on 01FIX1 has been removed (not by admin), and the eBay listing appears to have disappeared (although I'm not sure whether it's been sold, removed by seller, or has been removed by eBay).
Thanks!