-
I'm not in for this week. Every night is already taken.
-
Might look similarly comical twiddling down to the nearest village hall for tea and cakes, with everyone else freewheeling.
-
I wouldn't mind a regular 'TNRR', but not tonight as I'm going on a ride with m'lady.
And not next week because of riding a hill climb.
Maybe the week after.
But not the week after that because I'm riding another hillclimb :-) -
+1 for V2, looks great, better than factory setup.
-
Was time trialling again in Cheshire (on a fixed track bike, of course).
My Wednesday (and Monday) evenings are probably going to be spent in car parks and lay-bys with men/women in lycra, because I really want to improve on my early season PB before the end of summer. -
That too makes sense :-) Good work!
-
That makes sense :-)
-
Is the reason for using the M525 step-down axle + SPNK M10 seats, a strength-related one
(i.e., 10mm axle = stronger, stiffer, and more meat left after tapping for screw compared to an M9)?
Just for refs, had no problem so far (two rough J2/1 10s, plus IP & 750mTT at my club track champs) using the M9 HED track axle kit (correct seat/cone nut size so no need for spacers), with a cheap M9 QR axle, tapped, and countersunk screws/washers.
Going down the M10 step-down route seems like a bit of a faff.
(But I weigh 72kg, so might not need the extra axle meat) -
There's nothing new, off the top of my head, that would suit.
You could manage it either on an old horizontal dropout road frame (existing dérailleur hanger, steel frame, 126mm rear hub spacing preferable so OK to stretch to a modern 130mm road hub, or squash against a 120mm track hub... Or on a 130mm frame with your rear fixed wheel spaced to 130mm), or something like a Dolan FXE with a chain tug/mech hanger such as this:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dmr-chain-tugs-mech-hanger/rp-prod249
...Although I'm sure an aluminium frame such as that would not enjoy being stretched at the rear to accommodate a road hub, and the rear dérailleur probably wouldn't like it either.
Think it might turn out to be a bit of a bodge. -
Nice, looks very neat!
-
Yep, those numbers are the correct dims. [inner diameter x outer diameter x height]. You also need the correct chamfer to fit a PC, which is 36° & 45°.
MH-P03K 36/45Pair = £8.00 + £1.50 P&P.
-
Yup, same thread.
Mine came from a Halfords QR axle kit (BC discount; buying car paint the same day). Its cones measure just under 12mm at the bearing surface, so these could be used (like Andy's Instagram post above)...
I ordered the kit specifically for the bearing seat nuts, due to using a converted rear (old UG freehub model with a custom bearing insert), deciding it was better to have more surface area touching the bearing bore, since the DS bearing/insert is effectively held in by the nuts. -
Couretsy of @umop3pisdn & @mdcc_tester: https://instagram.com/p/bvrrZWD_h4/
I'm part way through doing the same sort of thing on an old Spesh spoke.
Bought a track axle kit from HED for the correct bearing seats, combined with a cheap steel QR axle, tapped, from the parts drawer. -
36x45. Bought one myself a few weeks ago.
-
Thanks Ned. I might be out next week, but might also be at another time trial :-/
Will see how legs feel and decide next Monday. -
I'm riding a short time trial in Cheshire, so not for me.
-
Yes, but by how much shorter depends the angle of your current stem.
By not reaching as low towards the bar, your torso will arc around a point where your backside touches the saddle, so hands moving up/around said arc, will bring your hands closer. Maybe try a cheap 90mm 17deg stem?
Both forks have a hole for a brake, so are likely to be taller/longer than the (track) fork the frame was designed around (can't be certain without measuring). That will further slacken the effective head angle of the frame. Still, 17deg is likely the closest available angle to 'flat' that you'll find without getting an adjustable stem. -
In answer to your other question, generally a horizontal one will feel longer (assuming you could hack the drop/arching of the back with a negative stem). Nitto are an exception as they measure stem length (properly;) perpendicular from steerer centreline to clamp centre, so a 120mm Nitto stem measured along the shaft, like most manufacturers, will be closer to 130mm...
I have a 35deg 'riser' stem inverted on one bike. I did some maths and worked out the reach was equivalent to about 90mm 'flat' 17deg stem.EDIT:
Above description of Nitto stem measurement only applies to some stems. See factory doc:
http://www16.ocn.ne.jp/~nitto210/stem-measurement.pdf -
Geo will be measured around the standard Alpina F04 fork, given that it takes into account BB drop below line between F/R axles, and ST length from BB.
Most of the time you won't notice 1 degree difference. Hope a -16 stem exists.
Which fork are you using? -
size 50-58 all have 73 head angle, so -17 should work with the factory fork.
I have a 17 thomson on my PC (Wing Pista fork) and it's flat. -
GB have been making/using their own wheels since London/ the 2013 world track champs.
Wheels are at the bottom of the list on their page so presume they still are the most recent in-house product (excluding developments to other kit since). -
SS front brake only. Bit scary, but looked like the kind of guy who'd slowly tootle to the skatepark on it.
-
^@c0gsucker behind a young skater-type riding similar down there in the autumn.
He was running it single speed!! :-O
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of predominantly fixed gear and single-speed cyclists in and around London, UK.
This site is supported almost exclusively by donations. Please consider donating a small amount regularly.
More items added to my basket: dibs bars.