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Sounds like one side (when viewed from DS) is laced with its trailling spokes heads in, while the other (when the wheel is flipped) is laced with its trailling spokes heads out.

Received mine today also, love it. Thanks @|³|MA3K .

Keep a bag of powdered Huel in a drawer at work, and prepare it there, instead?

Mmm, I see your point!
I reckon an exception to that rule could be with the newer style Corimas; a rear 4 spoke + front 3 would look pretty good, but has to be newer style (offest spokes), and never 4 on the front + 3 on the rear.

Rear wheel on that Anchor is such a shame.
Level above: when you're so desperate to run an Alter with risers that you buy a NOS 140mm one...

88x23mm china carbon rim, 3k matte, 28h, polished silver Novatec track hub, double fixed, silver Sapim CX-Rays & silver Polyax alloy nips, laced 3-cross. With lightly used Conti Sprinter tub, needs gluing/rim is clean with has no glue residue. No lockings though. £130 posted.

Aero wheels on training bike? Why?

Or a less sharpish new post :-)

Just remembered: using HM washers + 3.5mm nipple bed may result in a somewhat 'short' amount visible nipple on the finished wheel, which depending on your taste, might look a little odd. May be worth considering 16mm nipples if it's a bother... Will post some photos soon for consideration.

Looking forward to seeing them built!

Spoke prob 'ends' a bit deeper inside the wheel than 1mm. Spoke bed on carbon rims is usually about 3mm thick, then you need to add the height of the nipple base/flange, and HM Washer adds 0.7mm.
Also, Ryan on Ebay (in Bristol) charges about £2.50 per custom cut spoke, with nipples in whatever colour you want.

Lovely!

It might not make a difference, but putting the washers in first is insurance against the nipple bottoming out. I'd probably risk not using them if lacing 3-cross.
Only slightly weird thing about that build would be using washers on an eyeleted rim.

Prob too late now, but if you add a Sapim HM washer under each nipple, you add 0.7mm to the required spoke length, in which case 290 would be bang on.

Plenty of time to build up a fixed road bike!

... Or purchase a cheap SS kit and chain tensioner?

Turning up on gears is kinda missing the point of the ride. What forum is this?

Sounds decent enough! Glad you're happy with it. As usual with a lot of unbranded Chinese stuff; nothing a little DIY can't resolve.

Love it!
How's the quality/fit and finish of the frame and included parts? What's the wedge seatpost clamp like?

Chat prompted a search for a Wald/general baskets thread, but I couldn't find one...

Anyone had their Wald rattle loose with the stock fasteners?
Had mine (1392) almost a month and love it (and Restrap's Wald bag is excellent), but on the second day the top of the drive side leg came loose with <5kg aboard. Tightened (nearly rounding nuts sorta tight) but same happened again the next day, half way into a short 6km commute.
Not had a problem since replacing the plain nuts with nyloc ones, and adding some large washers to either side of those fastenings.
Also, (top tip!) replace the nuts of the fasteners that set the length of the legs with square nuts, then you don't need to use a socket or spanner to tighten.

I think we all agree that fixed is not the best bike choice for the Peaks, but that is the whole reason for going, yes?

Absolutely

Sounds bang on

I did it at about 11prm on 48x17 a few years ago, but got up, no dabs...
Definitely using double-fixed rear wheel this time!

Totes doable. Would rather ride up than down it.

Yeeh someone posted about it last week, see previous page for consensus.

Small amount of powder bleed into the BB threads? Attack with scalpel :-D

Fixie full circle. @Tijs is 2019 going to be the year of 2007-spec bikes?