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Be careful! :-D

True, and the bearing seats thread onto the axle from outside, rather than than the inboard axle/seat arrangement of the Formula hub in the tutorial
I think when I replaced mine, I just used an old 10mm axle as a drift to poke into the hub and whack the opposing bearing (in a criss-cross whacking sequence) out using a hammer.
I forget that I used to rest the hub body on... Think I might have centred the wheel over an oversized socket that the bearing could fall into.
Once the first one is out, you could thread an old bearing seat onto an axle and whack in a similar fashion to the tutorial.
You might want to wear earplugs during removal - the whole wheel resonates and the noise is incredibly loud and piercing.

Or, if you have a large-ish socket set, you can use two sockets, that are slightly smaller than the bearing, as drifts, to tap them in with a hammer.
Most important thing is to ensure that whatever you use as a drift ONLY comes into contact with the outer race (hence the suggestion of using the old bearings).
Using the axle alone would press against the inner race, and most likely knacker the bearing.

Most likely 6001 bearing (OD 28.0 x ID 12.0 x B 8.0mm).

Cheap ratty DA, grit blast, rattlecan satin black? Effect similar to bead-blast black anodising.

Love the wet&dry backdrop. Bump.

PM'd

Which of these do you reckon is more puncture resistant?
I have a Conti SSs on various bikes, but considering the Turbos for a pair of spare race/fixed crit/nice day fixed road wheels.
I'm guessing the Turbos ride slightly more nicely, are more grippy in the corners and will be better in damp conditions, but what about durability?

I think that's the 22.

Are the DA shifters still available? PM Incoming

PM'd

If anyone wants to split - I only need one :-D

3rd dibs... Grrh, if only work wasn't so busy first thing...

Lever on drive side appears to have a longer reach than the left. Pop the little quick reach adjust button the other way to bring it in.

Nice! Look much better than S900 IMO. Plain 3K weave carbon trumps UD.

Genuine question
Why are GT frames HHSB flavour of the month?
What makes them so good/cool/popular?
Are they an acquired taste, or am I supposed to like them because of how they look, or due to some nostalgic (BMX or trend-related) reason?
Thanks in advance.

Are they 1" threadless?
Your TP Crit Loop destroyer!

EDIT: Just spotted those armrests. Jealous now!

Got a right-hand S-900. Great cond./little use, £12 posted.

Shit, yeah, I reckon they stickered them up incorrectly. You probably know more about BB tapers than the importer/shop does.

What crank is that? Not having read any pretext to this problem, the pic above looks like an ISO crank sitting on a JIS spindle.
I wouldn't be surprised if the guy at the importer putting stickers on that batch just got it wrong, and the shop's unknowingly sent the wrong type.

Thanks! Interesting to see what road axle parts look like that aren't visible externally.

Thanks, link corrected.

Agreed, so most things considered, if I could only have one, I'd probably go lenticular.
Head-on shot of the Lightweight Conicalbahn (20mm at the brake track):

Pro Tour teams like to plump for Lightweight discs - a disc that is not lenticular but conical (due to how it's made)- so presumably it is 'fast' because it's stiffness and really light weight trump its shape.
Lenticular is probably the best shape a disc could be if it were a separate body, but like @umop3pisdn says, if a frame shields the wheel well enough, it's shape matters less, and most modern frames shield them pretty well (if not as well as Cervelo).
The way it interacts with the frame is probably where the gains/losses are (and that's also why Zipp discs have [mostly] always been flat - see last paragraph:
http://www.zipp.com/technologies/aerodynamics/boundarylayer.php ).

Sounds great, hope it all works well!
(Also, good to hear that yours has a proper inner axle/spacer between the bearings, ha!)