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I can imagine that happening, yes. But, bad touchscreens are a great way to make me rage, so I guess the question is how clunky the touchscreen/interface are...

Definitely not going oven under - that space is gonna be hooning great drawers. (Drawers FTW!). Question is whether to stack the two ovens above on another in a separate unit (one at eye level, one below) or next to each (both at eye level). I'd be most interested to hear from someone who went with the stacked option as that has more unknowns for me; the pros/cons of side-by-side are clearer to me.

While on the topic of cooking kit, we want two full ovens in our hypothetical new kitchen. Do we stack them vertically in a single full height unit, or go with them side-by-side in two full height units?

Anyone done the former and got opinions? Latter sounds better but will add another chunky unit to the kitchen.

Good to know. I couldn't see the benefit of the N90 (eg T59TS5RN0) over the N70. Not so hot on the little touchscreen, I quite like the tactile nature of the knob (fnar).

Neff do a 90cm induction cooker, 5 hobs with the outer pairs that tie into a flexzone/smartzone. We're looking at one for the kitchen in our new place. Link here.

Steel will rust where you (inevitably) rub off the paint. Fortunately, you'll just rub that rust right off again!

Go for a walk with a pair of hedge shears. Problem solved.
Or go full Bond like here
(skip to 3:00).

Yeah, you definitely won't have a buildover agreement, because the owner would be agreeing with themselves (and would also be liable for the repairs). The lack of a buildover agreement is why our purchase fell through recently (much more recent extension) and it was a lack of awareness about the problem that made us bin it.
You actually want the foundation to extend below the drain as that means the load is transferred to the underlying substrate. A shallow foundation would transfer load onto the top of the drain which can then displace/crack and the extra water/sewage could cause subsidence issues (hence why it was covered under building regs).

JD Tandems have 40H rims (Alex G6000) but I would agree - 36H trekking/MTB hubs/rims will probably be fine. Find something with bearings in the freehub body as well as the hub shell, that'll make the biggest difference.

Buy a cheap android phone, use DroidCam. It's what I do when lecturing and it works much better than a webcam. Buy a flexarm (eg this or this, latter gives the option of use as a DIY visualiser if he doesn't have a pen-based device) to mount it and get a decent microphone.

The smallest hex wrench in the set is included purely for the purpose of opening crushed housing liners... They certainly don't do their designed job of tightening tiny hex bolts very well!

Also PM'd in case @Roops doesn't go for it

Second dibs/first dibs when @mashton sells...

Edit: should have been in reply to @dangeek - oops

Why not Ortliebs?

Dry it thoroughly and leave it open by shoving the part inside.

Colin Furze at it again
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAPumW_wYKc

This seems peak forum.

Or nice desk art

I'm sure you'll find a use for those....

I think @Brommers has one...?

Sure, they're fine. You can also put rear panniers on the front if you're careful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9QYu8LtH2E

Oooo exciting frame!
When you're in a position that you need the drum brake, your hands are already full of brake lever. Hopefully you can trust your stoker to control it, they do trust you to control the rest... ;)

Chrome

Isn't for me....