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Great hubs. I've laced a pair of these with Campagnolo Atlanta rims (36h). Gives the looks of Shamals, but 36 spokes, 10/11 speed and a fraction of the price.

Thanks :). Maybe a moderator @BigH can move this stem adapter talk from the Colnago to this topic (https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/348222/?offset=50#comment15711492) in order not to steal OP Tommasini thread?

Yes, shim is of course splitted, otherwise stem wouldn't clamp.

:)

It's a steer extender which has been cut off to the correct length. Than there is a shim that is placed over de extender so a ahead stem can be mounted.

Pink cables, pulley wheels and tape sound like a risk, but you never know how it turns out :).

See attached picture of how I did the threadless stem/ahead. Teflon tape on the threaded part. Downside: no room for preload adjustement of the headset, so setting it up is a bit fiddly (removed wheel, than a clamp on top of stem/fork crown). Worked fine for +/- 300 km with no play or issues so far.

Ok, will be nice wheels I think. I think all black is a great choice, but that's just an opinion. Pink tape can look spot-on or competely off. There's nothing in between. If I were you, I would make this decision when all parts are installed, will give you a much better image of the complete bike.
On the stem: tidy solution in my opinion. As long as there are no spacers involved and the angle of the stem is in line with the toptube, it looks fine and wider range of ahead possibilties > looks. I'm building up a Master where I'll be using a threadless 1" headset (Tange Seiki) in combination with an ahead adapter. Might be an option for you to, but I presume that you'll need to cut your steerer tube than which would be a no-go.

Looks good. Are you sure your frame is suited for 27.2 mm seatpost?

What wheels will you use for this bike?

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The Master should be ready somewhere next week, fingers crossed. In the mean time, I've finished the Gitane. Satisfied with the result, it shouldn't always be the expensive bikes that get all the attention. Lovely French time capsule in my opinion. Mafac brakes, Stronglight cranks, Huret derailleurs and brake cable clamps, Normandy hubs, Mavic rims. I tried to salvage as much original parts as possible. Except for the consumables (bartape, hoods, tubulars, cables), only seatpost, two bolts for the bottle cage clips, and spokes + nipples from front wheel are new. For the rear wheel, I recuperated the original chrome spokes & nipples.

Before picture (from sales ad) + after:

ok, totaly different problem than ....

No idea if this would help for your situation, but I had a (older) Ultegra brifter that jammed while shifting to bigger cogs. The shifter felt mechanicaly blocked, so you couldn't 'flap' it to the left. I solved it by removing the shifter from the bar and tightening the allen key bolt on the back (where shifter meets bar) to remove a slight amount of play. Had the same problem on a R8000 Ultegra shifter, but that one lacked the allen key bolt on the back so no chance to adjust. Sent in for waranty at LBS...

No idea where you are from but you can get in touch with Stefan from Kontour (https://www.instagram.com/kontour.cc/ , https://kontour.cc/). He and his wife do breathtaking jobs in recovering saddles.

Looking forward to your build. Some oil might help in fitting the Piega through a quill stem. Depending on the type of stem, I've also had succes using a small wooden wedge to open up the stem. Be careful though, not to overdo it.

No, unfortunately not. Still at the painter, it's taking ages. But he's the kind of guy where you know in advance that it's going to take a long time. Pushing only puts you longer in the queu. Good jobs take time, that's what I tell myself every day :).

The Gitane is nearly finished though. Better pictures when it ready. Still need to take the pedals apart, polish and regrease them. Those Mafacs are fidly to set up...

Brilliant! Would be perfect with a stem parallel to the toptube.

I have this one from J&L, quite sure they also have one with setback. Used it for two years now, no complaints. A bit annoying to setup, but thats only once.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302250197067

What a brilliant bike, great. Beautiful colours in particular.

Wheels for the Gitane are also ready. The Normandy hubs have been polished and repacked with new bearings. I've re-used the original chrome Berg spokes for the rear wheel. Spokes of the front wheel were oxidized, so I replaced them with new DT swiss spokes. Mavic rims and Pelissier skewers have been cleaned up.

Does anyone has tips on removing the Continental Giro branding on the new tubulars? Will try gently with some acetone, but if anyone has experience with this let me know.

You can be sure it's an early (and sought after) frame because it has the signatures on the seatstay caps. Nice frame, looking forward to this build.

Also some progress on the Gitane: frame is cleaned and polished. Ready to be built up but still have to clean a lot of parts. Next up are the mafac racer brakes...

Of course, no problem. Disclaimer: I'm not a professional nor do I intend to. Just someone with a bit too much time on his hands :).

Yesterday I've received the last parts for the master piu, so now it's only waiting for the final part of the puzzle to arrive - the frame. Brakes, shifters and derailleurs are Record. Crankset is Athena carbon. I was after a 5 bolt Record chainset because it blends better with the slim frame tubes than the 4 bolt ones. Than I managed to source this new one for a bargain. Saddle is a San Marco aspide with carbon rails. Campagnolo cables set and Swiss stop black prince pads.

I've put them in a plastic ziplock bag with some HG oven cleaner. Just a few minutes, not too long. This will take off the anodizing.

Correct on the stem, the short one is not mine but just a reference to the stock finish.

I would recommend you to use the polishing machine. Will save you a lot of time :) . Looking forward to this!

I've used this one several times: https://www.nonpaints.com/be/2k-blanke-lak-hoogglans-in-spuitbus-spraymax-250ml-400ml. They come in different options: matt/Semi-Gloss/gloss. Be aware that it consists of two components, so once you 'open' a spraycan, you can only use it for a limited time ( 24-48h or so). The stem got one coat of primer (grey) followed by a wetsand with 800 and 1500. Then 4 coats of black, in between wet sanding with 1500. 'Sanding' sound quite rough though, especially the last coats only got a gentle wipe. Than 2 coats of 2K clearcoat without sanding.

For the levers, I didn't applied it partially but gave the full levers some coats to get a nice finish. How small are the areas that you want to touch up? Cause if it are only small chips, a spraycan might not be very suitable.