Search results for:

Nothing wrong with a polite e-mail to Bob Jackson to ask them about their opinion?

You migth be able to to find a webshop who still has a black Veloce 10sp groupset.

My opinion for MGOOF and vivid coloured frames like these: if you go for a black groupset, go all black for all other parts ( seatpost, stem, bars, wheels,...). If silver, go all silver.

Also did some work on the stem and bars. The stem is a Pro LT and they come in that cheap matte black 'structured' finish that tells you it's a cheap stem. Inspired by the polished black Zipp stems, I decided to paint it. Base coat, 4 layers of black, wet sanding in between and 2K gloss varnish to finish. Looks a lot better in my opinion.
As told before I've also ditched the chinese carbon bars and swapped them for a pair of Bontrager VR-CF alu aero bars with internal routing. Same story with the film finish, so also here a layer of gloss clearcoat. You can see the difference clearly at the stem clamp area, which I obviously masked.

The outfront Wahoo mount also got sprayed to get the same finish as the cockpit.

First pictures is stock finishing (not my stem).

And I also did a good deal on a set of 2015 Record shifters. They function flawless but managed to buy them for a good price since they had some cosmetical damage from a crash. They got scratched on the lever bodys, gloss varnish on the levers was scratched and one of the logo's was chipped. The body's sanded out quite nicely and I've touched up the logo on the levers. After some sanding a fresh layer of 2K varnish and they look fresh again.

The headset on the Master will be a 1" Tange Seiki. They have a matt anodized alu finish from the factory. To blend them in more nicely with the chromed headtube lugs and chromed forks, I polished them to a mirror finish. De-anodized them first, afterwards polished with buffing wheel and polish paste.

Let's say a polishing wheel mounted on an old bench grinder also helps.

Another bike got into the workshop some week ago. You can't polish a turd, but at least you can put some effort in cleaning a mediocre french Gitane sportbike. Lower spec bike for it's time but I like the way it looks and the colors. More or less al parts are french and original - huret all over the place. For some reason I enjoy it to rejuvenate all those old parts, no matter if they are high-end or not.

I'll go all-in on cleaning up these bike. It has been dismantled and all parts will be cleaned and polished. Wheel have been disassembled and will be rebuild. Yesterday I've cleaned up the Stronglight cranks and Normandy hubs and filled them with some yellow enamel paint to match the decals.

Next up is polishing the rims and cleaning up the paintwork.

Small update on the Colnago: frame is still at the painter but I expect it to be ready somewhere in january. In the meantime, I've gathered all parts (record 11 sp 2015 rear derailleur, Athena 11sp 5 bolt carbon cranks, 12sp record front derailleur, San Marco Aspide carbon FX saddle). I'm also changing the Chinese carbon cockpit into decent alu aero Bontrager bars. They were ok for testing, but It will give me more mental peace while riding.

I've touched up the record shifters as they had some minor cosmetical damage. I've also polished the aluminium headset because it will be squeezed between the freshly chromed lugs and forks. I'm in the process of giving the Pro LT stem some black paint and gloss 2K varnish, to get away with the cheap matte finish and make it look more nice. Pictures of all this will follow soon.

Always difficult to asses cassette wear, at least for me!

Yes, shifting has been good. In the workstand, not the most silent but on the road it was all quiet and shifting was good. The marks would indicate to much cable tension I assume, whereas shifting to harder gears was always crisp.

Which reminds me that I've been riding for An unknown time (I expect it to be +-500k) with a derailleur hanger that had play. Maybe this caused it, as subsequently the derailleur had some free play to move once it was indexed in a gear?

Here are some detailed pictures of the cassette. Cog 17t and 19t skipped with the new chain. What worries me is the chain wear on the cogs, which I marked in red. Is this supposed to be normal wear? No play at all on body, lockring was always torqued right...

Will make a picture!

I've already swapped the chainring, so can't check anymore unfortunately . Compared with new TA ring:

Great job on this bike, man. Love it.

The 42 seems a bit limiting to me. 42/28 is quite tought (at least for me) for regular road riding (in Belgium), let alone with luggage. I'm quite sure it's not possible to mount a smaller ring on these cranks though. If you want vintage cranks and small bcd, campagnolo victory/triomphe is an option. Then you could install a 36 or even 34 Miche chainring, I think.

But it looks great now, so if you're ok with this gearing, just keep it as it is. The polished cranks looks gorgeous, especially with those anodised rings.

Don't push me :)

Bravo!

I don't have a cross bike. But if I see a bike like this, I (think I) need a cross bike :)

Flemish conditions (good weather - bad weather - dirty roads - short climbs) but chain was maintained well. Cleaned with a rag after every ride, dry lube when needed. Cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner for 2 or 3 times.

I'm going to put the cassette on my turbo trainer bike. Still works fine with a 0.5 chain.

How would you judge the chainring on the picture? Replacement is ordered, but what is the 'amount' of wear here?

thanks @Hjusth for the info. In the end I've bitten the bullet and went for a full Chorus 11sp cassette (110 euro) + and new TA chainring. Didn't want to mess up the new chain (potenza) and cassette with a worn chainring.

Curious about the durability of the potenza chain. I've used a KMC 11 speed and was suprised about fast (<5000km) is was completely worn out (1.0) . This messed up the sprockets and the cassette and also the chainring. I'm quite strict in cleaning + greasing though. Will check wear more regularly for sure.

Not really, I think? Do you have other recommendations?

What is the general consensus on changing sprockets in a rear cassette?

I have a 11-29t Campagnolo Potenza 11sp cassette. With a new chain, the 17 & 19 sprockets skips due to wear. This one and the 21 are the ones that I use most.

Two options now: replacing the entire cassette (+- 125 euro) or replacing the worn sprockets. Campagnolo offers a 17-19-21 replacement (code 11S-791 - price +/- 45 euros).

Is there any disadvantage or no - go for replacement sprockets? What is the general opinion on this?

Thanks! Old wheel are for sale in classifieds, if anyone has interest

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/356039/#comment15620458

SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD

I have this Campagnolo wheelset for sale. This set was build a couple of years ago with new , but hasn't done much miles since (max 200 km). So condition is very good / excellent. Perfect for a classic looking neo retro project.

• Campagnolo 9-10-11-12 speed - body sound is very good
  
• rear hub with sealed bearings, front hub with cup & cone. Both spin forever.
  
• classic skewers included
  
• Aluminum Rigida rims with eyelets - brake track in very good condition - good braking performance
  
• stainless steel Sapim spokes
  
  

So all in one a great, clean wheelset, ready to use.

SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD

What a lovely colour. Also stylish choice of components. But isn't the 42-52 with 11-28 going to be a bit tough for touring?
Looking forward to this build!

Thanks! I've built those Atlanta rims around a set o of 32H Campagnolo Daytona hubs with sealed bearings. They spin forever and are future proof for 11/12 speed. The braking performance of those rims is not as good as the previous (shallower) rims though. They where Rigida Chrina rims, an affordable and good option for VMB wheel builds, see attached pic.

Last weekend I've built some new wheels for my Stelvio. Silver 32H Campagnolo Daytona hubs with sealed bearings with shiny Atlanta 1996 rims. I like it, though the lower rims were also nice in my opinion.