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Car appreciation thread. gto>>>>>>>>>>

Happy to help. You should be fine with a 4 year old Toyota. You can check the obvious stuff like tyres, lights and wipers yourself... not much likely to be worn out at that miniscule mileage.

A good Indy sounds the best option.
Someone like :http://www.albinbmotors.co.uk/html/about_us.html
I'm not endorsing them, just using them as an example of the genre. Up to date diagnostics can save you cash.

Yes, I should have a 1" chrome and rust post somewhere.
Yours for free. If your Kalloy is the 'hockey stick' variety, I'd be glad to swap.

Just for info, suicide levers can be unscrewed, then the central pivot removed and the threaded part cut off, leaving no trace when re-assembled (depending on your engineering craft skills).

Old style chrome post any use to you?

Looks a bit rat but £ 90 only

Just £35, yet a shitty stick has not yet been needed.
Get your Olmo rat here: http://www.lfgss.com/thread115481.html

Like the paint job.
A shame to scrap it and gloop coat, really.

700c sold. So just the 27" left now.

Have a bump.

Have a bump - for being good to trade with.

I only have a 700c Condor fork with 195 mm steerer (853os frame, fork won't be made of same.)
But it's not going on a Raleigh frame!

What length steerer and thread do you need?
I'll check my stock of 700c forks.

^^ Alternatively, a 1970's fork for 26" wheels fits a 700c real close.
You might have to buy a whole rusty wreck to get one, though.

That gap is massive; more like a 650c in a 27" fork?
Not sure a deep drop caliper would be deep enough.

any chance I could collect the 700c pair tomorrow afternoon?

I live in Nottingham, but in Clapton tonight till about 3pm I guess

PM'd.

e11.

I'll make no bones here, these are both truely shit looking wheels.
I will photograph them tomorrow, in the rain, to corroborate.

27".
Front :Rigida chrome / rust rim on a large-ish flange Normandy hub with q/r.
Rear: Alloy Taiwanese state-of-the-Art c.1990's, re-dished for SS freewheel.
Both true, smooth enough, and have Schwalbe 'puncture proofs' with good tread / perished walls, that have done 500 miles recently.
So, shit wheels and tyres - suit a 'double figure' beater project.

price dropped.

sold.

^^ The easiest way; I sourced cups with the same depth of thread as the originals.

Re. the crank play, it's probably not tapped deep enough for the new cup, which has bottomed out.
Been there. Don't hand them another 50 quid to fix that.

"My LBS pulled my Javelin for 50 quid".

I'm East and could sort you that lot...from a tenner?
PM for details, if you like.

Now with free UK postage.

Very pretty. Looks like a Stronglight model 93?

Great read , what happens if you have a stuck seatpost that happens to be hollow?

They're all hollow.
If you mean a post having more than one open end, stick a bung of some sort in it. A cork, for example.

A good read as it was well written.
A mech. eng. who can write well; you Sir, are a Polymath and an autodidact.