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For the money an LBS will charge you, you can probably buy the tool an do it yourself - it should be under a tenner .
YouTube will probably have a tutorial or someone can explain in detail here. You need to find out if you have standard or Italian threading on your bottom bracket (the threading is reversed on one side for Italian)
They're pretty simple to remove and install, if you learn once you'll be able to do so again in future any time you need to . The tool can also be used to remove a cassette so extra useful!
http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-5-fr-11
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Yep it will fit just fit bluemels 35's but no brazeons unfortunately so have to use p-clips.
How is your single chainring? I've only dropped it once when I shifted up the whole cassette, otherwise its been fine. I'd forgotten what a pain friction shifting is in heavy traffic though, id really like a trigger shifter so may have to switch to Shimano /sram at some point. Maybe theres a jtek shiftmate that would workUp hill is definitely more of a challenge!
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Inspired by @jambon 's awesome Walvale porteur and a long weekend in Toulouse on hire bikes I've just added a 1x9 groupset to my previous single speed with some VO Milano bars. I'm loving the new setup around town. Not as fast as with drops but but definitely fun and a lot more relaxed for pootling about. Could do with a few more additions including a rack and guards.
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Quick update - the frame and fork weight difference was only 300g, not enough for her to notice over the comfort factor so went for the Ridgeback.
Just got it back from the powdercoaters in RAL 6027. Colour is great, though I'm a little disappointed in the finish, there are quite a few pinholes all over the frame. Only really visible on close inspection but still annoying as this powdercoater has a good reputation for bike frames. I've waited 3 week as they told me there were a few pinholes on the seat tube and wanted to strip and repaint. I wasn't expecting any the 2nd time so didn't unwrap it till I got home. They've offered to repaint but it means another long wait and cost / time of getting it there and back. Plus I've already missed her birthday by 2 weeks due to the delay so am reluctant to wait any longer. Didn't have this problem with the other powder coaters I used for my frame and these guys are supposed to be better
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Good tip, thanks I'll be careful !
Spoke to Mercian who were extremely helpful. My understanding from what they said was that there were actually 2 versions of generation 2 (round top) shape ergo levers in 9 speed, the first few years had a slightly different ratchet in them (EC-RE313) that was specifically designed for the matching 9 speed derailleurs. Once 10 speed came in around 2001-2002, the still current 9 speeds got a new ratchet (EC-RE063) that seems to be more compatible with 10 speed derailleurs. At this time Daytona up to Record ergos were offered in both 9 & 10 speed, though 9 speed Veloce and below retained the old ratchet for a year or 2 for some reason.
You can see the 2 part codes in the tech docs. Both work with 10 speed but the earlier ones do not quite work quite as well which may account for the issues. I'm using 10 speed derailleurs so if I have the old ratchet this may account for the sifting being slightly iffy. I think Mercian said the older ratchets have '1' stamped on them so I'll be able to see when I open them up.
Yet another confusing Campagnolo issue!
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Ok I've bought some new g-springs and a ring carrier , I've watched the rebuild videos and read the online guides repeatedly and am you going to attempt it myself... What's the worst that can happen?!...
It's not worth paying to have them serviced, they also need new hoods and for that combined price I could buy a new set of 10 speed shifters which have cables included. I can live with Powershift for this bike (guess I might have to if I can't get them back together!)
Anything extra worth noting before taking them apart ? Looks like it'll be much easier to hold it in a vice.
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I'm having some trouble getting my drive train to index cleanly. Shifters are Campag Ergo 9 Speed When in the smallest rear sprocket, the lever blade has to move quite far across before I feel any tension and it clicks to shift up to the next sprocket. For all subsequent shifts the lever seems to be under tension when in its normal position behind the brake lever blade. Is this normal for ergo shifters or is it a sign of a worn lever/g spring etc? I don't know if this is affecting the indexing or not.
I've pulled the cable through as tight as I can and playing with the derailleur barrel adjuster doesn't seem to affect how soon the lever clicks for the 1st shift, although I tightened the additional adjuster on the down tube cable stop and I thought this did result in a slightly quicker shift but not by much . I've checked the cable as it runs along the chainstay and while not super tight it doesn't feel especially slack.
The shifting is working but seems a bit sloppy and nosier than I'd like. (the chain and cassette and cables are new and the derailleurs are in good condition)
Any insight appreciated !
thanks



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