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Usually the shifters are gunked? Simply spray some wd40 in the shifter while changing the gears up and down. Once it freed up, shoot some grease inside and thats it. Springs and ratchets are usually not fun to put back together after opening the shifter...

Clean!! Very nice find. Put slicks or semis and ride as is?

I built my first fork with the copy of Max fork legs. I feel like it will be unnecessarily stiff and heavy. I loved building it though.

Next project is to build a straight lightweight fork. Any recommendations for tubing? Weight info seems to be really hard to come by. Pete from ceeway told me that Reynolds does butted 1" steerers. What is the weight of real Max fork legs? I would prefer the slim look of Precisa fork, apart from that am I am not a heavy or aggressive rider and feel that Max fork could be too stiff..

Mine is not for sale, no idea what it would be worth to a collector, but a nice vintage 531 frame and first generation Dura Ace (mine is a rather rare black version) 400-500 Euro? As a collectors item I guess it could be quite a bit more...

I've been fighting my patella tendinitis for 5 years now, 6-7 different orthopaeds (and opinions), 2 mrts, 2 physios... check eccentric squats (martin kobain's book) and self massage. I had good and bad periods and the worst you can do is, is to ignore it... if its inflamed, give it a rest and then whatever you do, start very slowly and write up your pain scores..

Looking good, those seats always scared me, although I am sure they are 100% sound.

You'd be surprised how easy it is. Doesn't long either.

Serious machine, how do you like that SRAM gear?

You would probably need a syringe and some tubing for step 2.

Regarding the cranks, I would consider spraying loads of pentrating oil (or some other solvent to dissolve old grease, page Tester?) through the BB oil port while turning the cranks. Then the engine oil or liquid (warmed up) grease through the same port, use gravity to get it to both sides. I would avoid doing it through the seat tube because it could chip surface rust or dirt and take it for a ride to BB.

Great bike! Are you planning on opening the hubs/BB? One of the questions is also how to prevent rusting after all that elbow grease. Obv oily rag on the rims is not a possibility.

All the excitment in this thread. You must have been thinking of going full pro?

There is an awesome thread on mtr.forum with a guy who went full sus, but with a half-sus (dont know if thats what you call it) on the back, no rockers needed, chainstays that have some play and shock from seatstays to tt.

All those lovely brazing happening and no videos :( you tin completly in the jig and procede straight to laying down filets, do you flux again or leave the fork to cool down first? Did you go for 853 on the ST and what blades on the fork if you dont mind me asking?

Go Sram and 40-44t (NW) on the front, on the back whatever you usually ride.. looking forward to see it with some (more serious) rubber!

It's a beast!

following very eagerly all your builds. maybe you can use the new frame as an excuse for that demo video of filet brazing? thanks!

Just saw your answer, the problem is I am using a MTB crank so some spacers were due. 1 on DS and 2 on NDS + chainring on the middle position for a 48/49mm chainline, looks very decent with a lot of heel clearance. I just filed the plastic spacers to fit them on the ITA BB and cut the steerer short in my LBS.

Had some problems with seating the KMC snap link, but managed it in the end. I am missing an adapter for the rear break and a looooong piece of derailleur outer, but almost there. Just to sort out my knee then...

just here to share some progress on my gravel conversion while salah is destroying roma

https://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php?products_id=11022
12 € !

I realise I made it sound worse then it is, but the current therapy suggests no sport at all, so I am a bit frustrated. Thanks!

@withered_preacher
I remeber reading it before, will give it another go.

Thanks for the observation. This bike is obviously not fitted and I am quite sure it will not work out with a set back seat post (slack seat tube due to mods). I don't have "knee discomfort", but "stage 3" tendinitis which the lit describes as advanced degeneration of patella tendon (already 5y with active sport phases in between). for what is worth when i ride, i do it with cleats set up in the furthest rear position and KOPS - 79.5 cm saddle height (184 cm w 86 cm inseam).
one of the major factors of parallel inflammation of both knees for the first time was a poor fit on my second fixed gear and my ignorance of the pain (trained through the pain for weeks before eventually i couldn't even walk anymore).

my bike mojo has been weak since I am not even commuting due to my knee (my third try to get rid of patella tendinitis), but maybe this will help. any opinions on bar-lever transition? anyone knows if ITA HTII BB uses the same spacers as BSA?

more pics in my thread!

some progress, tomorrow evening hopefully more. anyone knows if ITA HTII BB uses the same spacers as BSA?

Don't mean to crash your project, but I have a DMR that fits your description. What size do you ride? Shoot me a PM if interested and gl with your build!