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No typo.
Fiver indeed.

Bump for new individual prices.

Moar pix

EDIT - Cranks are actually 170 not 165.
My mistake.
Amended.

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I don’t use this as often as I should and it’s gathering dust in my workshop.

I’m selling to fund a new guitar so any Jaguar owners, lmk, I would trade.

I realise this build won’t be to everyone’s taste but I’d prefer not to split unless there’s interest in the whole lot. I don’t wanna be left with rogue parts.

Photos are of the initial build.
It now has different tyres and there’s a 105 brake with a BMX lever attached - both can be removed without any fuss.

It’s been used so there are a few paint chips.
I’ve included photos of the worst of them.

A lot of the hardware was mirror polished before building and you might not be able to see that from the images so I’ve added another photo of that so you can see it.

I reckon purchasing this bike at retail would cost around £2,200 - £2,500 or thereabouts.
I’d like to see £1,000.

Bank Transfer or PayPal (plus fees) is great.

The workshop is in SE22 and I live in SE4 for collection.
I’d probably ride it over to you anywhere reasonable in London.

I’ll gladly ship at the buyer’s expense.

Cheers.

Ian

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Autumn Frameworks #0004
"Track Bike" never intended to see a track.
Hand built by Trevor Watson
Made from Columbus Zona and Life
56cm Square
Wishbone rear end and a “triple triangle”
Cole Coatings Workshop dual flip paint, front-to-back fade
(The front colour shifts from a blue to a purple and the rear shifts from red/orange to gold
The whole frame has a matte finish)

NOW SPLITTING IT OUT
Will ship at buyer's expense.
Prices are firm.

I'll answer my DMs in the order they arrive and I'll take money from the first person able to pay. I won't hold something for a "dibs" until payday/tomorrow/this afternoon if someone has cash now.

Frame - 250
Wound Up Fork /w polished crown - (steerer length to follow) - 120
Chris King Headset - 1 1/8 - 60
Polished Thomson x2 Stem - 100mm - 50
Ritchey Classic 10D flat bars /w ODI grips - 5
Polished Thomson 27.2 Seatpost - (length to follow) - 40
Brooks Carved C17 Saddle - 50
Sugino 75DD Cranks (170mm) /w Polished Aarn chainring 51T - 260
Polished Phil Wood HF x H+Sons TB14 Wheelset /w 18t Phil Sprocket - 300
MKS Sylvan Track Pedals (black) /w Scafell Pike Double Leather Straps and plastic cages - 40

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Spotter, what do you charge for a full refurb?
And how long does it take?
Please and thanks?

Absolutely.
Not a problem.
Same email address.

No worries.
If you can include dimensions as annotations in some format in the file, I won't have to rely on the different softwares and hardwares speaking the same language and I'll be able to size and scale accordingly.
Cheers.

Yeah.
That'll be me.
Send me an email colecoatingsworkshopATgmailDOTcom

Yeah.
Last Tuesday.
That's the one.
Buy the album.
Get a ticket for the Scala show.

Deffo.
As soon as David Shrigley was announced for curating that event, it was obvious Deerhoof was gonna be involved!

Are you familiar with the Pom Poko album from last month?
It sounds very much like the surreal/frenetic Deerhoof style.

They were excellent last week at The Lexington.

Ey up you lot.

I know there are a bunch of you in Sheffield...

Record Collector / S10 3BA still has some titles I was sadly unable to get my hands on this Saturday in London 'cause I was working.

Are any of you near enough and willing to pop over and pick up a few records tomorrow and ship them to me? the sending to me isn't urgent but picking them up is... sadly they can't ship out or sell online until next Saturday and it is likely that these titles will sell in-store before that. They've already gone from every shop I visited on Sunday.

I'll put £20 in the pocket of anyone who takes up the job... will get you a couple of beers?

Please and thanks in advance.

Ian

I never miss a Deerhoof show in London.
I bought my two when they announced.

Online you won't find anything completely accurate because the colour on the screen is made with light rather than inks and pigments.

Good quality RAL reference books are made by paint firms and the swatches are actually small pieces of paint product so they are perfect (as perfect as perfect can be)... these are expensive... often in the hundreds of pounds.

The official RAL books are created with ink rather than paint so they're not always spot-on but they're what RAL sells so they're accurate as far as they're concerned.

You can get one from Amazon here - https://amzn.to/2TSa6Tt

Light will fade the colours so store it in a dark, dry place.

There is a greater spread of khaki/drab style colours in the British Standard range than the RAL. From what I understand, these are the colours that are used in official camouflages and such.

You'll also find that some shops will have tube samples of colours but this probably isn't the best reflection because it only shows what each RAL will look like when applied by one shop in certain circumstances and there can still be variables.

The reference books show what the colours are "supposed" to look like when applied well.
This can go wrong if you don't groundcoat properly... if you don't stir the paint properly in the tin... if it's too warm... too cold etc...

In terms of working to a budget, there are some trade-offs... one of those is simply that the colour range isn't available... it's one of the reasons people opt for wet-spray refinishing in order to get the complex colour variants and designs possible.

If you're London based you're welcome to come and visit our workshop and flick through the reference materials here... we've got them all... it's actually too many and an easy way to waste your morning and not realise. Drop me a DM.

Sadly, not all automotive colours are available as powder.

THIS^

RAL 7009 is close and "close" should be what you aim for.
That colour looks different on your screen and mine... the photo has lighting conditions that are altering the colour... the room you're in also contributes to that.

Also... I think this has a non-gloss finish over the colour which will alter the appearance of the colour too.

If you're aiming to emulate it yourself... buy some 7009 in a rattlecan.
If you're going to have it done professionally, ask your refinisher to get 'close'; they'll appreciate the freedom.

The reason I say this is that not all colour products are created equally...

Different brands make different types of paint product which are chemically different for a number of reasons... geography and related legislation; tooling variations; brand recipes etc

Refinishers will have preferred brands and product lines based on their techniques, tooling and sometimes the availability. They will even have favourite colours... not in a childish way of needing to drink from a blue cup but rather in relation to the dynamic properties of the colour and how well it builds, covers and interacts with other colour products.

Whilst adjectives can be really annoying to get across colour nuances, if you show this picture and let your refinisher choose something similar, you'll be enabling them to give you a better quality finish.

The toothpaste is a little more dense so you might lose some of the paint wiping off the masks.

Its masking fluid but really... Anything whixh isn't solvent based but that's more viscose than the actual paint.

Washing up liquid is the go-to.
Toothpaste. Ketchup. All work.

It's not strictly difficult for a good refinisher but it's a lot of work so it can be expensive.

I wish you luck in rawing the frame... It's the WORST job!

Yeah. For sure. That would definitely be one method of approach... Then allowing it an appropriate curing time and then abrading it before applying your masking vinyl. I would choose that option if painting white base over say, red base but perhaps not in every case involving a candy (or in a fade/complex pattern) just because the colour and depth of the candy is so heavily determined in the application so any type of hiccup makes a repair a myth.

The timings are essential in that scenario because the intercoat clear is effectively adding more solvent which can reactivate the candy and cause it to bleed even more!

For a real safe bet, I'd perhaps give a full clearcoat over the green candy, work on something else while it cured, then wet flat it and apply the graphics over the top and then flowcoat the final clear. This would give you a fully safe barrier between the candy and the white basecoat. It would also give you a deeper prism for a rich glossy clear over the pigment and could potentially help you blend the raised edge of the graphics and make flatting and polishing it smooth a lot easier!

The graphics appear quite flat from the photo too... if you read the reflection of the light as it moves over the actual text it is straight rather than undulating over the letters.

Its only one image but as a paint nerd who spends all his time in the workshop, there's a lot in this for me to enjoy/appreciate.

It can be done with an ink or dye in the clearcoat but that's not best practice if you wish to polish the clearcoat afterwards.

At CCW, we apply a tinted 'direct adhesion' clearcoat.
It's basically part primer, part clear and we add ink to it.
We then clearcoat directly over the top of that.

Applying the white graphics over the top without colour bleeding is particularly skilful.
Whoever did this knows their onions.

The colours available are somewhat limited and it is a pain to capture well in a photo.

Most costly part of a finish like this is having the original factory finish safely removed from your carbon frameset (if it hasn't come straight from the factory in a raw state).

Ey up.

What's the desired finish at the end of what you've described?

I say this because media blasting will leave a dull, grey, textured or "pitted" finish rather than a shiny metal appearance.

On top of that, you also have to deal with the fact that a 'direct' adhesion clearcoat has no anti-corrosion properties so you end up with a clearcoat that once compromised will allow rust to bloom beneath it...like some 90's BMX finishes or the BB17/Mash Works V1.

If your frame is stainless, we would chemically strip it and then apply clearcoat and the above issues wouldn't be a problem.

In either case, you'll pay £80 to have the frame stripped of its original finish and £150 for the clearcoat.

Drop me an email if you wish and I'll talk you through the options.

colecoatingsworkshopATgmailDOTcom

Hello all... we currently have an active 20% discount code for our webstore which is active until midnight Friday.

All the 'House Specials' are sold out for 2019 but if you were thinking about coming along and doing our paint course, it's currently reduced by £160 if you use code 'BLACKFRIDAY20' at checkout.

https://colecoatingsworkshop.com/store/

Apologies in advance... I'm gonna post this same message in a couple of relevant threads so anyone interested might see it - ADMIN: please delete if not appropriate.

Hello all... we currently have an active 20% discount code for our webstore which is active until midnight Friday.

All the 'House Specials' are sold out for 2019 but if you were thinking about coming along and doing our paint course, it's currently reduced by £160 if you use code 'BLACKFRIDAY20' at checkout.

https://colecoatingsworkshop.com/store/

Apologies in advance... I'm gonna post this same message in a couple of relevant threads so anyone interested might see it - ADMIN: please delete if not appropriate.

Looks really clean. Great work.

Like Matt says... for good adhesion, you need a key in the substrate. This will be visible as you build up colour products... the lack of a key is why CromoVelato finishes fall off easily after chipping.

If we're working directly over chromed or stainless steel (or Ti etc), we can do 'Cromo Velato' style effects at Cole Coatings Workshop using 'Direct Adhesion' products. These are products designed to be used without standard primers but they have no anti-corrosion properties and act only as a barrier to the elements - hence they're better suited to materials that won't rust.

We definitely wouldn't recommend this effect over the textured/pitted surface left behind following media blasting. As smooth a surface as possible will give the best effect.

As Matt has said, similar finishes can be achieved using chrome effect paint products or good quality silvers in a more standard candy application. This however brings with it the problems that are associated with the use of silver paints - all the painters here will know this... for silver, a smooth finish is needed... any imperfection or prep mark in the substrate or the primer will be visible in the final finish if it is not removed.

One further thing to know is that candy/ink/dye style products are somewhat limited in their colour choices compared to the vast array of 'normal' paints out there and additionally, given that they have some translucency, these products get darker as more layers are built up so you can't always choose the EXACT colour you want.

Hope that's helpful.