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All LBS near me only sell the folders, presumably because they bring in more profit and are easier to store.

Exposure Diablo working well for unlit lanes.

Does the Diablo have a decent bar mount? I thought this was a helmet mounted light.

The latest issue of one of the mountain biking magazines I looked at in Smiths rated the Bike Ray IV, which has a battery pack, from
http://www.lightslightslights.co.uk/Bikeray-Lights/bikeray-iv. I've never heard of the light or the company though. Specs look good though.

I'm looking for a similarly bright light for the same purpose. Although I've never seen one the Electron Terra 3 is self contained.

my own question

Anyone have experience of good bike mounting/carrying methods for a krypto M18? Sounds like a tricky task but if anyone knows of something that works I'm willing to give it a try.

I have a Trakke U-lock holster http://www.trakke.co.uk/product/u-lock-holsterwhich I use for my Abus mini U-lock. I'm not sure how wide the M18 is, but I can thoroughly recommend this holster - I barely notice the lock is there. On my commutes which are ca 10 miles each way I wear cycling gear though and its not much use then.

Anybody got any idea how many miles I should get from a chain?

I run a 44x16 combination in fixed gear and lube the chain weekly and clean (degrease) maybe every month. I commute in all weathers but the bike is stored sheltered. The chain is a KMC Z510 and appears to have stretched beyond 75 % on my chain-stretch tool (my ruler also agrees).

I would rather replace chains than the more expense cogs but my chain has only been on the bike for 2-3 months and done < 1000 miles. Should I be getting more miles than this? Am I changing chains prematurely?

I gather that chain tension can effect the wear I have ca 1 cm play vertically. Are there harder wearing chains that I could be using?

Any suggestions?

Cheers.

Thanks both. I must be going mad I never thought of looking for the pzracing site. Doh!

Am I right in thinking that if the outside of the crown (I assume you mean crown and not crown race) is 45 mm to match an internal headset that this specification is purely for aesthetic purposes? Ie it could be anything and would fit all bikes with a 1 1/8" headset but could look damn ugly if large in comparison to the head tube outer diameter.

Hi

I'm looking at replacing my forks and am considering these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/pz-racing-cr4-1forks-2013/rp-prod51265.

I understand the drop-out to crown height, rake, and steerer diameter. However can someone please explain the following specs to me:

"Crown Race: 30mm, 45mm crown for int."

What's 30 mm and what's 45 mm and what does for int mean?

None of the other forks I've looked at have these specs listed and I'm concerned that there are some specs I should be considering and am not at present. I thought the only important factors were drop-out to crown height, rake, and steerer diameter.

Any suggestions please. Thanks in advance.

Personally, I prefer a number/another number. It's division, not multiplication, you dolts.

I'm well aware its division but the convention everywhere I look is to write it using "x". Ie 52x16.

Personally I prefer a certain number x a smaller number.

A few hours of charging from a PC rather than a plug seem to have sorted my Super Drive out. Puzzling!

Anyone who has a Lezyne Macro Drive, be careful to read the instructions before you use it. Don't use it as a torch and only charge it with official Lezyne chargers.

There goes £40!

I had an issue with mine about 9 months ago and went directly to the UK distributor, Upgrade Bikes, and received excellent service.

I type this as I am struggling to get light out of my Superdrive or get it to charge after fully charging it last night - or so I thought. This does not change the fact I received excellent support.

I'd be pretty keen to known of any recommended insurers. I'd quite like to not have to lock the bike to a mountain sized lump of concrete when indoors. Obviously I'm exaggerating but I'm not sure I can easily meet the criteria of my home insurance policy.

Sorry for the use of the incorrect term. Education much appreciated.

I've got horizontal dropouts. Its a Pompino. I could be wrong. I run one tooth different on each side of a flip-flop and would love to run a bigger difference. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

Will you have enough travel in the dropouts to use 50x16 on one side of flip flop and 50x19 on the other? I'm not sure I have. I'll be interested to find out.

Sorry I worded my query poorly. It is not a carbon frame or part I would grease but the parts in close contact with carbon, for example the bb and the headset where the crown race in particular is in close contact. The grease could therefore end up on the carbon for some time.

Sorry I should have stated I'm not planning on greasing any at the moment but hope to upgrade my frame this year, cash permitting. I was asking more as a general query.

To date the only carbon part I've done is the forks, well headset and the crown race looks to be on an alloy steerer.

More a question out of interest to prepare for the future. Some dos and don'ts would be good.

Thanks

I'm wondering whether anyone has any recommendations for the use of grease on/near carbon fibre parts. I've read that some are acidic and attack resins and others along with degreasers contain solvents that can soften carbon fibre.

At present for all my grease needs I use a marine grease a Unipart Marine waterproof grease (http://www.yachtchandlers.co.uk/acatalog/info_MD284550.html). It's been superb on my steel fixed and the pot contains enough for life (probably). I have greased my road bike with this to and this has a carbon fork. The grease is calcium based (therefore I assume alkali rather than acidic). Does anyone have any thoughts on its appropriateness for carbon frames/parts?

Thanks in advance.

My Gatorskin hardshell lost a thread just above the rim at the weekend and I was going to replace my Intensive with one of those.

The Vredestein Tricomps look interesting as I'm after a nice fast tyre with plenty of grip.

Thanks all.

I've got a Hutchinson Intensive (one of the recommended tyres) on my rear wheel and I love it, it has lots of grip. The tyre's now done ca 800 miles and has threads sort of unwinding round the tyre circumference on one side just above the rim. It looks like about a 2-3 mm depth of tyre has lost threads round the circumference and that in some areas the main upper of the tyre may be separating.

Has anyone else experienced a similar issue with any tyres or know what could be causing this? I had a Conti tyre loose a few threads once but nothing like this.

Finally I obviously need to replace this (annoying at such an early stage). Can someone recommend a nice grippy puncture resistant tyre that comes on 25 mm?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Isn't it the other way round, is yellow has the gold rating and red the silver?

I have the yellow version and whilst not having as good a reputation as some of the Kryptonite and Abus locks I think its great. I don't live in a city though where bike crime would be higher.

My only faults with the lock are the key slot has no weather proofing, and depending on what your locking to or your bike shape it can be a smidgen short.

Thanks guys. I've searched around and I have found Mdcc_tester's post and lots of sites that are basically either quoting Sheldon or rephrasing him. Without an ISO bottom bracket I guess there's little I can do to find out for certain.

I do have two Stronglight JIS bottom brackets though one sold as 103 mm and the other 107 mm. Both measure spot on, end-to-end ie not from below the chanpfer as suggested above.

I've checked the manufacturers website for the chainset (FSA, a double Tempo) and they recommend, their own bottom bracket (unsurprisingly) a 110.5 mm axle model which is why I thought 110 mm would be fine. Maybe they have their own taper?

I guess short of buying their bottom bracket and trying it there is little I can do other than facing the bottom bracket shell on the drive side. But I really don't want 1.5 mm of frame material removed.

Cheers

Thanks. Thinking about it more I agree, loctez, 1.5 mm shouldn't affect my chainline too much as that 1.5 mm is spread over the drive and non-drive sides. If my chainline is out by 2 mm I need a 4 mm shorter axle.

Scilly Suffolk can you explain more about the JIS measurement or direct me to a picture. I am a little confused as this Shimano bottom bracket which is JIS is 111.5 mm end-to-end for a stated 110 mm, while a 107 mm Stronglight JIS model I have measures exactly 107 mm.

If the BB is wrongly labelled I can't return it as I can't remember where I got it and it has 1.5k miles on it.

I've got a chain line issue with my road bike. The front chain line is out by 2 mm in the outward direction.

In an attempt to sort this I stripped down the front part of the drive train. It turns out my BB axle (BB-UN55) is 111.5 mm not the stated 110 mm.

Does anyone know what the tolerances on these are or has anyone else ever had this issue. I am thinking of buying another BB but maybe of a different brand but if the tolerance is known to be poor then there is little point.

Thanks in advance.