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^ I saw this on the telly, shockingly bad... testing a road bike on a steep hill when you've not previously ridden a road bike... "this feels weird".... no shit sherlock

yes please... pm incoming

Dibs holdfast straps. PM incoming...

DA brakes arrived very quickly, amazing condition, thanks very much!

DT swiss and Sapim, traditional double butted, but my last build was 20" wheels and for that you can only get plain gauge.

Hard to describe... depends how hard you grab! 5mm would be a hard grab... stiff but not stupid is what you're aiming for.

As others have said, ditch the tension meter and go on feel. If when you squeeze spoke pairs you don't have much give, you have reached the right tension. Check relative tensions using tone.

Your best bet in my admittedly very limited wheel building experience - 3 pairs, but all stayed true - would be to unwind everything completely and start again. It's all good practise!

Dibs Dura-Ace BR-7402 SLR brakes (49-39) - GBP 35 posted. PM incoming...

Dibs Surley 15T 1/8".... pm on way.

Bump... still after one of these.

Almost the same performance as a real hub.

I'll take 3.

No offence, but that sounds like a recipe for damaging a bike, and I don't have a shit bike I can try that on. I'm done damaging things in pursuit of a hub which cost me £8, I'm back on the market.

WTF is a rotoscope? Google only brings up the special effect applied to cartoons.

I took your advice, laced it into a wheel Ok, still wouldn't budge, went at it so hard I have now broken my chain whip! I'm cutting my losses on this one.

If anyone has a cheapish 36 hole flip flop hub please let me know. Those with a cog still attached need not apply!

is that rubber sandwiching the thin part of the hub shell? Or clamping the flanges themselves? Cos if the former, been there, done that, no juice.

glued clear plastic hose around hub body. Glued two halves of wood block with hole cutout around plastic hose. Wooden block in vice, tightened to the max. Chain whip on sprocket, hammer on chain whip. No budge. Beauty of hot glue is you can prise it all apart after, no damage done to hub. Much damage done to pride/ego.

Next stop? Blowtorch <8-O

Thanks, will do. Thats assuming I can get the sprocket off! Currently resisting increasingly brutal removal methods (think vice, hammer, chain whip, hot glue gun).

As above, wanted for a workmanlike build so trying to keep costs down. So no Miche Primatos - unless you want to sell one for £cheap ;-)

Dibs suzue hub please. PM incoming

Really? That would be a PITA to change over. You'd have to make sure your der was lined up with your fixed sprocket, and God help you if you accidentally knock your shifter. It's the only plausible explanation though.

Thanks for the offer harv, but I'm sorted now thanks to Poodles.

BTW it was either Chomsky or Ricky Tomlinson's autobiography, so...

I just received a fixed/free flip flop hub from Poodles of this parish for an absolute song in response to my wanted ad. It's 120mm over locknuts which is what I need, but what I wasn't expecting is that the hub body isn't currently centred:

The distance between flange and locknut on the sprocket side is 10mm less than that on the other side. Why would anyone have set a flip flop hub up like this? Won't it give different chainlines? I'm quite comfortable taking it apart and replacing the long spacer on the freewheel side, but I want to check I'm not missing something first?

Sorry, should have been clearer, looking for fixed/free - that Milremo is fix/fix isn't it?

nothing too fancy, for a beater frankenbike fixeh project.