-
- Miche Track pedals-black. Decent campagnolo-esque copy. Come with Condor double toeclips and straps.
Reasonable scruffy condition, fairly smooth-(left sticks a bit). Chink missing from underside of one pedal (see photo), but desn't seem to effect running that I can tell. Sadly no plastic end caps. Toe clips and straps pretty good nick all told.
£22 all in.
- Condor deepish drop front brake calipers.
Pretty good condition just a bit splattered with clear laquer. Should clean off fine.
£13.
Sorry for crappy photos.
Collection from Homerton East London most evenings or anytime next week (1st week august) as I'm off work.
Any questions, issues, grumbles, message me.
Cheers,
Jeff
- Miche Track pedals-black. Decent campagnolo-esque copy. Come with Condor double toeclips and straps.
-
-
Two cheap wheels for sale. I've never used them so can't be sure but they seem pretty true at a glance.
- Crappy Rear Sovos Flip flop fixed/free hub on quite a nice but scruffy Ambrosio Gentleman rim, kind of champagne colour. Should clean up ok, still has original decals.
Hub spins pretty smooth-slight bit of grit. FIxed cog bent and will need replacing, but you can kkep the lockring etc. 700c quite narrow so no bigger than 28 tyre (and that's a push) - £12
- Vintage Sturmey Archer front quick release hub, on Rigida Super Chromix steel 27 1 1/4 rim. Spins smooth. good for vintage build or whatever.- £10
- Crappy Rear Sovos Flip flop fixed/free hub on quite a nice but scruffy Ambrosio Gentleman rim, kind of champagne colour. Should clean up ok, still has original decals.
-
Anyone any idea on bb size/length to get a 42mm chainline using a T.A. pro 5 viz crankset? These:
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=5ABE00C2-6C1D-4921-B7FC-B0AC4FCA52ED&Enum=115&AbsPos=9
Having a bugger of a time finding out -standard 68mm bottom bracket shell.
Thanks,
-
-
-
Hit by a van as he pulled out into me from a side road, about 4.30pm tonight.
Driver stopped and waited.Result- ambulance took me hospital where I was checked out, got x-ray and told I had a broken collarbone.
Back wheel written off, (hope I can save the hub) and frame will need to go to bike shop to be checked out, not bent etc. (any one recommend a good one for this in London?)glad i'm ok really, good easily have been a lot worse.
-
If you don't mind sacrificing the stem, then you could cut the top section off with a hacksaw, leaving a column inside the steerer, with the remains of the expander bolt. Tap the remains of the bolt downwards to free the expander wedge, then get a stillson on the remains of the stem to twist it free.
I'd try drilling out the bolt first though, as you may be able to save the stem and only need a new expander bolt.
Ok, thanks. Guess I'll be giving this a go then.
-
ok, so I've had this Carlton for a while
Got it cheap and love it but the stem is stuck. Well and truly stuck. And the hex key fitting on the expander bolt is rounded off (and seemingly made of cheese)- I guess from someones previous attempt to move the stem. So I can't loosen it at all, and I'm guessing the stem is stuck because of galvanic corrosion between the aluminium stem and steel fork.
I've tried wd40 (lots, then some more), and I've tried soaking in coke for a few days, but it will not budge at all. The bike rides fine but it but it does bug me, and I would like to get it free if at all possible.
So what do people think? Do I leave it and learn to live with it? Try heating it up/cooling it down, heating again etc? Take it to a LBS/frame builder (any recommended in London than are good at this sort of thing)? Anything else? Bearing in mind that the hex fitting on the expander is rounded off so I can't apply any force to loosen it at all.
I don't mind sacrificing the stem but I obviously don't wan't to damage the frame or forks by too much twisting.
Thanks
-
Hello Sir,
James from work here-
surely if you are going to paint it stove enamel would be best, especially if you go for black as it always looks a, erm, deeper more-black type of black. Conrad always moans his path-racer is not black enough-that's powder coated I think. I know it's costly but... You've seen my Viking so that should tell you what powder coated clear-coat looks like, if you do consider that - even if as something not to do.Where exactly is that little braze on by they way? I can't quite figure it out from the photo. That may at least give you a rough idea of the age if it is for some specific type of gear or something similar.
And if it's rideable bring it in please next time it's sunny-I want to see it in person!
-
-
-
-
jeff, the front cable routing is massive! might need to cut it down if you don't want it to be in your way when you're on the drop.
You probably right, to be honest, I may cut it down an inch or two, it has got a bit in the way a few times already.
I just have a thing for this kind of thing; -
And on a different note... Changed the brake lever to an old Mafac one and added some old Bluemels Club Special Mudguards to the Viking Road/Track ready for the rain.
Just wondering whether to change the bar-tape from the current brown to red cotton tape now, and searching for a classic pump to fit the seat tube pegs.
-
The original lug was replaced with XB3.
I doubt it being a Carlton as it seem to have different crowns. A Raleigh maybe?
Any further info is welcome. Thanks!
I'm not sure, but I can promise my carlton has almost identical fork crowns to that. almost identical to raleigh track frames from that period too- they were basically interchangeable by that stage it seems.(as Raleigh bought out Carlton in 1960.) The serial number is definitely F followed by a four digit number too, as were some Raleighs of this period. It doesn't have an oval stamp mind.
-
Above was in reference to this.
Hello.
Bought this frame some time ago and was wondering what could it be.http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=320441&d=1370070799
Yesterday the seller contacted me and told that it was some nameless track bike that got into an accident and the headlug was replaced. Originally it was loaded with Campagnolo parts. Here are some pics before the crash:
-
My carlton flyer track has similar looking lugs, fork crown and wrapover seat stays as the before photos. I think it has a a similar (somewhat mystery) serial number in a similar place on the bottom bracket too, though can't remember for sure about an oval stamp. I can check tommorrow for you if you like?
I think it's early 70's-don't know the exact year, haven't worked that out yet for sure, but the guy I got it from claims he owned from the 70's. Those track ends look like the ones on carlton/raleigh proffessional too, and that would also explain the campagnolo parts it had too although obviously these could be added to anything.)
-
-
http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/green-lightning-13665
Can't attach the picture. But it makes me angry somehow
-
-
These are at opposite ends of the spectrum, but i really like both of these builds. The Carlton has the right amount of ratty beater class(though the stem could be slammed.....and a steel GB....also the saddle angle is a little off) and the Cinelli eccentric and fun.....good work.
Thanks,
Yeah, would love to slam the Carlton stem, but it is well and truly stuck fast - I've tried pretty much everything I can think of, but am wary to do more as I don't want to risk the forks. Anyone has any ideas for loosening or removing it, let me know.
The saddle will get altered, just need to ride it a bit more to find my best position for it, that's all.
-
all right Price drop bump.
Miche Pedals with cages etc now £18
Condor brake £10 or thereabouts.