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Ours was similar, seemed a bit of a fire risk too but in the end it was so filtthy and gross i pretended like 'extra' insulation is better so left it under the new loft insulation.

Interesting, it looks (from some bodgey calcs) that PIR is still going to be better than a good insulating plaster. The room is on a top floor at the back of a victorian terrace. The rear wall had been rebuilt some time in the 60s so they concreted rendered the inside and then skimmed it. The difference in wall temps between that wall and the front wall which is still lime plaster is staggering.

Any thoughts on PIR backed plasterboard vs. insulating plaster for internal wall insulation?

Have you got a rear full length mudguard in one those pictures?

has anyone had a go with 'envirovent heatsava' or another similar single room heat recovery vent unit? Standard humidity of modern humans in a basement flat creating loads of condensation so thinking about how to improve ventilation/air change. Also looking at PIV for a flat if anyone's tried that too?

Any one?

taking the plunge, ideally tan walls, but open to anything

hah, i know the feeling.

I'm not an expert, but my inexpert idea thinks this is a good idea

ahh, i used the batwing style internally on a bathroom door. probably because of user-error, but i found it meant i needed to rehang the door slightly set back from it's original position. or maybe thats whats meant to happen and i was being a dumb dumb

Whats the forum approved method for draft proofing a front door?

I don't really like the idea of adding a seal holder and seal - like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331440202406

But i do like the more challenging idea of routing out a channel in the stops to hold a seal.

Anyone done this recently?

This looks a great set up.

I wonder if a newer - battery - circular saw with track adapter is a better solution than a shitty track saw and a shitty circular saw.

probably depends on the circular saw, but my (few years old) makita is definitely not as easy to use compared to the £80 draper track saw i got for building a shed/doing decking. the ability to plunge into something to a stop point and then pull up without having to life the whole unit when you're finished makes a massive difference. maybe some newer circular saws can do that?

tldr: a crap, cheap plunge saw is still better than my circular saw for use with a track for straight, repeatable cuts.....in my opinion

We tried for a while (behind a cooker) and it became pretty manky within a few months.

Have just got some thin copper sheet and bent it and glued it on, so it still looks neat but something that can be splashed and wiped etc

i'm not convinced that's natural variation...

you could use some osmo with the white pigment in it (https://osmouk.com/product/polyx-oil-effect-raw/), but i'd think you'd just end up brightening the grains and it looking a bit off. worth a try though if you can't get them to sed you a new piece.

if you fancy being a real knob - i'd ask for them to put a sample against another piece in the workshop and send you a picture.

I'm starting to toy with the idea of upgrading to wireless shifting so looking for a used a sram etap groupset or part of a groupset if anyone has some in a drawer?

nice - i've just wired up two strips. total wattage of 90w to a 60w driver. looks a bit dimmer and still works.

Anyone know much about LED strips? I've got a dimmable strip (which i assume means it needs constant voltage). Can i wire it up to a driver with less wattage output than it needs at its top rating - so i have a permanently dimmed strip\?

Then i'd take the switch off (turn the circuit off first at CU) then unwire the line from the switch that feeds the fan - there may be a permanent line and a switching line plus a neutral you'll need to disconnect.

You could then get it sorted as part of the renovations i guess?

I'm about to build a fence at the back of the garden because i hate our neighbours and they make it feel like we live next door to a playground.

Aside from a brick wall, whats the next best option? I've seen some 'acoustic' timber fences which seem to just be solid 25mm T&G timber. They cost a lot and are the wrong size height wise for us.

Would i be mad to use some sort of sheet (ply or OSB properly treated) and sandwich some mass loaded vinyl in the middle. We could then add some cedar battens or something to side we see to look nice and pop a cap on top to keep the worst of the weather off.

Shit idea?

Probably - do you care to keep the fan going or happy to have it off permanently?

Any recommendations for a plasterer in north london? my usual helpful plasterer has come in a bit pricey for a job

I think we do - i like the red of cedar and although silvery weathered cedar is nice, it's not quite as nice as the red stuff.

to be fair though, as bobbo said further up, it's so soft it'll be dented and wrecked after a few weeks i'm sure so i suspect i'll be beyond caring

On the subject of oil - i'm soon to be building some cedar wood decking/cladding - any tips on a good oil to use to keep it's nice red hue?

I think it can depend on the wood itself - we've done different floors in the same house and got slightly different results. i think we ended up going for 1 coat of white tint, followed by 1/2 coats of raw. 2 coats of white is very live-laugh.

We did on one floor (before having to redo it a year later after builders ruined it) use lye - followed by a couple of coats of raw osmo - it worked super well.