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Conclusion: the safety margin is not sufficient to make the dowel pins a mere fail-safe, and to avoid fretting they will need to be a press fit in both parts

Idiot suggestion: What about 6 m5 bolts (it works for disc brake loads in a 44mm diameter pattern. (and drop the fixing bolt)

a stock Shimano freehub body fixing bolt for attachment

Looks good! Is there enough material in the fixing bolt shoulder to cut the dura-ace twinthread? or do you add material somehow.

and is it a classic fixing bolt or one of the new larger ones (which could fit a larger axle!) for newer dura-ace/xt/xtr hubs?

But it is still called scylence... I am disappointed :)

also thanks @mdcc_tester

edit: No noise here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZAK5FkhyNY

What is your opinion on the new xtr hubs:

Is this the same mechanism as the low end shimano hubs with silent clutch?

I guess there will be a xt hub version next year at a better price....

Vittoria tri evo is a fast tire, if high pressure/very smooth surface (=track I guess). So if they are cheap that would be a good choose

Sounds good! Are you going to make it ? :)

some dowel pins would be simplest.

So for example 3 holes in the hub "shoulder" surface matched up to pins on your new extension?

6 years ago:

I have one too, eventually I'll get around to converting it to fixed with an ISO 6-bolt fitting...

What was/is the secret plan here? How would you go from the hub thread to a 6 bolt pattern?

Homemade TL-FH10 tool
...at least the pictures are easy to follow

or a "7/16" square key":

Not mine. Im just guessing the function :)

Picture stolen from Pignon fixe

https://www.pignonfixe.com/topic/381/%E6%9C%89%E7%BD%AA%E7%9A%84%E8%89%B2%E6%83%85-porn-coupable/6183

edit: It is! https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/ns-bikes-rag-commuter-road-bike-39941

Super Commuter (it has mudguards so it must be functional...)

Thanks for the details

Is this trispoke the version with a shimano freehub body? (that can be exchanged with the surly fixxer)

It has what looks like cup & cone bearings + shimano uniglide thread....

@mdcc_tester ?

Kinlin tl-23 ?

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/kinlin-tl-23-650b-27-5-mtb-touring-tubeless-compatible-rim

Bikehubstore (US)...

Kinlin XR31t

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Halo-Devaura-Disc-700c-Aero-Road-Rim_102101.htm
But there is a logo on the rim

Maybe https://dcrwheels.co.uk

or
What is the inner diameter of the adapter?
Maybe you can cut an internal thread in the adapter and use a crank bolt like this (or glue in a tube like I did)
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12869532/

or check the diameter on the fsa carbon bung. I think it can be shortened a bit:

Quickfix: Drill a hole in the barend bung and attach the hope topcap to it with a nut from below...

If the geometry chart is true (!) there is only a 5mm length difference between 56 and 58. So it comes down to, do you want a 160mm headtube or a 180mm? :)

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-comparison
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/conti-gp4000s-ii-23-25-28

gp5000 28 is 1.5mm wider than gp4000s 25 with the same rim and pressure in the above links

Disc fork option:

Ask the omnium shop if you can (still) buy a 'tight clearance’ steel fork from the cxc frame.

axle-to-crown: 370mm, rake:38mm, clearance between fork legs:59mm

https://omniumcargo.dk/omnium-cxc/

Where do i buy 6902-2rs/61902-2rs bearings from? 15x28x7mm

I guess NTN, NSK, FAG and SKF are the ones to get.

Yes, I forgot you probably should not buy the dt swiss ones as new. Steep price...

DT swiss adapters work well

or shimano's: