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They probably waste more than that getting rid of whatever traces of head there are into the drip tray.
Auto vacs sorts that one out. Although we have a beer engine with a sparkler fitted, without auto vacs,and I measured the wastage on the last barrel (72pint) including the sludge at the bottom of the barrel it was 5 pints. So price per pint eventually worked outat £1.20 and Sooo much nicer than bottled beer.
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+1 but it ain't just London where you don't get a proper head. It's the little plastic sparkler they screw onto the pump that creates it. Next time your up north find a friendly local landlord and ask if they've a spare and take it with you to the pub down south. It's quite amusing watching bar staff struggling to pull a pint when they've fitted it!
Does anyone know where the north/south beer devide begins? I know in Cambridge they serve flat/headless beer and derby its served with a proper head. But there's a lot of milage between that I'm not sure about. -
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If it all goes pear shaped
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=160898499930&index=23&nav=SEARCH&nid=66077699313
The Germans love them so they're really common and cheap to import from germany -
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^^ I bolted mine to the rear of the fork where there's a thread provided. It does kick the mudgaurd out a bit so you'll have to trim the stays. For this I used a pair of heavy duty cutters(snap on) borrowed from a mechanic friend. Stainless is a nightmare to cut using a hacksaw unless you have the right blade.
The rear one I fitted without drilling, then removed the wheel to line up where to drill. If you don't have a drill you'd probably get away with heating a nail or screw up on the gas and melting a hole through.
It was definatley worth the hassle. Mudgaurds are a must in the uk for at least 6 months a year. I fitted mine last winter and haven't taken them off since -
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^^ not sure what's going on. It only really happened when it was new. Also the weather was very cold when i put it together. It seamed to improve as the weather warmed up. I've since given the hub an oil change and it hasn't happened yet this winter. I put it down to a running in period. As for cable adjustment I fitted a barrel adjuster at the hub end to fine tune it easily.
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^ I've had this happen too on the 11 versa but the other way, it'll sometimes jump from 6-10 which is a pain if you're climbing cos 6th is about 55" and 10th is around 115". As you said, once you get the feel for it it's ok and rarely happens any more.
The electronic hub? I've not experienced this yet, I'm always suspicious of replacing control systems that work perfectly well with electric motors, switches etc. The beauty of the bicycle to me, is the ability to fix it yourself without needing a degree in physics!!! -
^^ ah misread what you meant there. The problem with other shifters is cable pull. If it ain't spot on you run the risk of trashing your hub. Thre are some gadgets like the problem silvers travel agents on the Market and different gear manufacturers use different amounts of cable pull. If you're lucky enough to have a set of SRAM,shimano & campag 8 speed shifters lying about, you could measure the pull and see if one of the pull adjuster thingys corrects it to match the alfine the Alfine.
Lemonade there are still no drop bar Alfine comparable levers that work with v brakes. Again the travel agent is the only bodge I know of, but cycle cross disc callipers do work with them. -
^ yep they do an 11 speed versa shifter I'm using that set up. The pull on them is the same as cantis/road callipers. The disc callipers are road rather than mtb so it works fine. They're indexed and the shifting works opposite to each other (little lever drops from 11-1 on mine) default is top with no cable attatched,so fingers crossed the cable don't ever snap or i'll be pushing home! Defo not interchangeable. Also bloody expensive (£160) but that's what you'd expect to pay for the same sort of thing for any derailier lever/shifter set up.
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I'm thinking about getting a pompetamine, how much roughly do you think I can get for a secondhand pompino?
That'll depend on the build and condition. A Standard on one will be less than one with nice components. I payed £250 for mine which was pretty much standard in good nick off eBay. Got a second hand frame and forks, from a friend, for £65, that I've built for polo.
If youve nice bits already, You could buy a pompetamine frame,an Alfine hub, spokes and a rear disk brake and use the rest of your stuff then sell your old frame. Or cold set your frame to 135 and get the Alfine hub. They're quite cheap if you get it from Germany, they seam to like them there.
Or -
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^ yeah the pentaclip can be retro fitted. Different density rubber blocks are available. If the hardest still ain't hard enough you can put a wide jubilee clip around it to stiffen it up more. I would be inclined to try a crankset from a spares bin before buying anything. I'm not sure if the chainline would be right. 165 cranks might help with pedal strike or maybe spd's.
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Lancaster United Instuctional: Fixcraft Coupler - YouTube
This is a reasonably good instructional on mallet building. You don't need a fancy fixing system. A m6 nut and 50mm countersunk m6 bolt will do. And use a ruler to get your holes for the shaft central. All the rest is available through magic, lhbpa or throw-in -
Easy with hub gears. I fitted a SRAM s7 to a Pompino. Didn't think too much of it so upgraded to an 11 speed Alfine. If that ain't enough range( approx 28-130 gear inches)you could fit the schlumpf mountain drive but I've no experience fitting that so can't comment on how easy that'd be.